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Everything posted by Jeff_Miller

  1. Thanks for the info. I researched this before and I remember Oshawa Blue being a likely candidate so it is nice to see your guess being consistent with that.
  2. Sorry to steal the thread but I wondered if you could decode the paint code from my 1936 McGlaughlin. The paint code is 611 so the 6 seems to correspond to 1936 but what color was 11? Thanks, Jeff
  3. When I bought my 1936 McLaughlin it was running, driveable, and complete minus one hub cap and I paid about $10,000 U.S. complete with delivery from Toronto to MN. I have already sunk another almost $5,000 into it replacing wiring, fixing the starter, tires, brakes, and I'm not sure what else over the last 4 years. It came with old and bad paint which I still haven't gotten around to so I figure I'll easily spend as much restoring a solid car as I did buying it. I'm really surprised that car went for that much and it makes me wonder if perhaps I should put mine on the market. BTW: yes, many
  4. Magic juice, heat, a big breaker bar, and a lot of patience. The shocks are only held on with something like 4 bolts and they all have pretty good access if you have enough deep well sockets. I did skin a number of knuckles getting mine out but it was pretty straight forward. Once you get the shocks out be sure to replace the bump stops while you are at it.
  5. Why would you? I found that when I rebuilt my front end, including doing the shocks, that it drove just fine. Switching to better brakes might be nice but I'd still keep the rest of the front end.
  6. Great question; I wish I knew the answer but I'm still working on that. For a long time I was going to go the route of remote reservoirs that were designed to work with a wilwood cylinder. That cylinder was ultimately too long and when I gave up on that cylinder I gave up on the remote reservoirs. This new cylinder sits much higher and has bigger holes to pour fluid into so I don't expect to have as many problems with it as I did with trying to fill my old master cylinder but I still need to be able to get access to it. I happen to have good access to the cylinder if I remove the entire floor
  7. Well after several delays from FedEx delivering my package to the wrong place, work, emergency shower demolition, and illness I just finally got a chance to try bolting things together today. It was a serious struggle to try to get bolted in (have I said yet that I sure wish I had a lift?). Tolerances are also extremely tight but it does fit, is aligned, and has full travel. The donut on the end of the pushrod is a bit wider than the last push rod so I might need to drill another hole in the brake pedal pin to be able to insert a cotter pin. Plumbing will be the next task. The cylinder has
  8. When I did my harness I considered making my own but after getting a professionally built one I'm really glad I used their services instead of trying to learn yet another craft. When I priced out the cost differential it wasn't $1000 but more likely a few $100 difference. The big issue with cost is that I wanted to have true color markings for every wire. Doing so meant spending a lot for lots of different colored wires and gauges. Adding period correct terminations also added greatly to the cost. If you have a lot of time and you like to learn new crafts go for it. For me, I factored in th
  9. In addition to adding the turn signal wires I would also upgrade the gauge of the wires to the headlights. In addition to the many suggestions for additional wires I also added a wire for an electric fuel pump and fan. Th fuel pump is used to address vapor lock and is only used for priming; I still drive on the mechanical pump. The electric fan is just insurance. One of the big issues with headlight switches is that they create a significant voltage drop which can lead to dim headlights. With so much current going through the switches it can also lead to switch failure. For these reasons I
  10. Yup, I decided the JEGs expensive option was the way to go if for no reason other than it should give me a little room for slop when lining things up. I spent the morning talking to all the automotive supply places in town and not surprisingly they didn't carry anything like that. What was surprising was that they couldn't order anything like it either. Jeff
  11. Well it is going to be tight but I think it is going to work. Here is the cylinder shortly after I unpacked it. A big issue for me is the length and if you look at the pushrod you can see that I was already experimenting with trying to thread it further in to try to solve that issue. This image is after I cut off the ear and threaded the pushrod. The tape is close to where the rubber boot will end on the rod but it is also just about where I need to have a 3/8" eye connected to mount to the pedal. The plan is to cut the pushrod to be closer to the cylinder so that when I thread on the cap
  12. Marty, Thanks for the encouragement and contact. If the parts I ordered don't work I'll be sure to give Doug a call. Jeff
  13. Tom, Thanks for all the help. I ordered parts last night and it is looking like they will get to me early next week. Hopefully I'll have an update by the end of next week. Jeff
  14. Hi Tom, Ok, so that is the same cylinder, you just bought the version with the brackets. I previously looked at those pictures of the brackets but it didn't dawn on me that I could derive the width measurement that I need (DOH!). Thanks for pointing this out. Looking at the diagram I think the 1.75" from the center of the pushrod to the outside ear of the mounting tab is probably correct and a bit too large for my needs. However, as you point out, if I take advantage of the side mount option and grind off that ear I should be able to get the 1.25" that I need. It was the side mount option of
  15. Tom, Looking at your pictures and knowing that you ordered from JEGs it makes me wonder if you are using the "JEGS Performance Products#555-631405" cylinder. I looked at that cylinder and exchanged a number of emails with them and it sounds like a close fit. JEGs indicated that the distance from the center of the pushrod to the side of the cylinder was 1.75". Unfortunately, when I measure the current cylinder it is only 1.25" from the center of the pushrod to the side that mounts to the bracket in the frame. I think a 1/2" deflection over 4" is too much so it sounds like I'd have to replace
  16. Slotted washer :confused: I think I too must be the beneficiary of some previous owner modifications. My washer has no slot in it. The pushrod itself is also suspect as I believe it is too long. Ever since I got the car I have been unable to figure out why I could not adjust the brake stop so that when the brake was released it didn't clobber the floor board. After taking things apart this time it became more obvious that the pushrod was more than a little strange. Perhaps I too have been experiencing leakage because of the way the PO put this thing together. I guess that is even more re
  17. How did you get the washer backwards? The pedal end of my pushrod has the receiving end of the adjustable screw mechanism pressed onto the rod rather securely and I'm not sure I could get it off without considerable force. I don't think that is what happened to mine but now you have me thinking. Jeff
  18. I'll try to catch up with comments from all the above. The car I was riding in that had failed brakes was definitely an issue of maintenance and no, it was not my car. That said, even maintaining my car I was disappointed to find that the master had leaked twice and a wheel cylinder was weeping after I initially redid all the brakes. None of that should cause an immediate catastrophic failure but left unattended or possibly whilst in the middle of a very long drive I could see that such leaks would eventually compromise the braking system with air leaking in. As such, having a dual is reall
  19. I took it apart (again and I sure wish I had a lift) and now I remember the sins of the past that I uncovered earlier. Sometime long before I purchased the car the master cylinder had already had a brass sleeve inserted in it. The sleeve still looks good except for a few small scratches near the push rod end that are so minimal that it is difficult to feel them even running a finger nail across them. The rebuild parts that I put in are in excellent shape so I didn't obviously mess them up when I put them in. So why the heck is it leaking again??? I wonder if the brass might be out of round, w
  20. I have rebuilt my master cylinder twice already and I just found that it is leaking once again. Obviously I'm doing something wrong and/or it may be beyond a simple honing and rebuild kit. Instead of trying again I think it is time to have a professional look at it and possibly do something like line it with a sleeve. I'm unclear what the costs of this might be but I suspect it would likely be close to the $200 that places like Kanter charge. Doing this should restore the single jar setup of the car and allow it to stop as well as any 70 year old car with manual brakes. But now the blasphem
  21. Yes, the inverter is a great idea especially if you want to run a modern radio in your car. I was powering my radio with a 12v jump battery but when I added the alternator I figured I had enough power to run an inverter to power it instead. I now have an additional 12 volt fuse block that is fed by the inverter. I only have the radio on there for now but if I decide to add something like a power port for charging things it should be straight forward to add a wire to the fuse block. Jeff
  22. I used Narraganset but also saw a Rhode Island equivalent. Both seem like very good suppliers although if you wait until the spring you can run into some huge delays for them to make it. Whoever you order from be prepared to wait longer then they say it will take. I second OCMs suggestion of laying it all out and studying everything. The "schematics" that I got seem to be more of a build sheet than a schematic. Make sure to get a schematic for your car to match up with the wires and what comes from your supplier. You will use all of this when you sit down to study the wires. I also took
  23. I wish my memory were better. I did this a number of years ago and I think I ended up taking the lower board out so that I could then drop the whole vent. Getting it back together and all lined up again was a challenge. Jeff
  24. Tom, thanks for posting an update.
  25. Mark, thanks for the pointer. I have to learn how to mine information off that site. It took me awhile but the index led to the torque tube publication from March/April 2003 and there I found the write up on page 22. The link to the torque tube is http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XXI%20Issue%204%20(March-April%202003).pdf Unfortunately the article still left me wondering if I installed mine correctly. Hopefully Tom will be able to make some sense of it. Jeff
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