Jump to content

Jeff_Miller

Members
  • Content Count

    110
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Jeff_Miller

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. Thanks for the info. I researched this before and I remember Oshawa Blue being a likely candidate so it is nice to see your guess being consistent with that.
  2. Sorry to steal the thread but I wondered if you could decode the paint code from my 1936 McGlaughlin. The paint code is 611 so the 6 seems to correspond to 1936 but what color was 11? Thanks, Jeff
  3. When I bought my 1936 McLaughlin it was running, driveable, and complete minus one hub cap and I paid about $10,000 U.S. complete with delivery from Toronto to MN. I have already sunk another almost $5,000 into it replacing wiring, fixing the starter, tires, brakes, and I'm not sure what else over the last 4 years. It came with old and bad paint which I still haven't gotten around to so I figure I'll easily spend as much restoring a solid car as I did buying it. I'm really surprised that car went for that much and it makes me wonder if perhaps I should put mine on the market. BTW: yes, many
  4. Magic juice, heat, a big breaker bar, and a lot of patience. The shocks are only held on with something like 4 bolts and they all have pretty good access if you have enough deep well sockets. I did skin a number of knuckles getting mine out but it was pretty straight forward. Once you get the shocks out be sure to replace the bump stops while you are at it.
  5. Why would you? I found that when I rebuilt my front end, including doing the shocks, that it drove just fine. Switching to better brakes might be nice but I'd still keep the rest of the front end.
  6. Great question; I wish I knew the answer but I'm still working on that. For a long time I was going to go the route of remote reservoirs that were designed to work with a wilwood cylinder. That cylinder was ultimately too long and when I gave up on that cylinder I gave up on the remote reservoirs. This new cylinder sits much higher and has bigger holes to pour fluid into so I don't expect to have as many problems with it as I did with trying to fill my old master cylinder but I still need to be able to get access to it. I happen to have good access to the cylinder if I remove the entire floor
  7. Well after several delays from FedEx delivering my package to the wrong place, work, emergency shower demolition, and illness I just finally got a chance to try bolting things together today. It was a serious struggle to try to get bolted in (have I said yet that I sure wish I had a lift?). Tolerances are also extremely tight but it does fit, is aligned, and has full travel. The donut on the end of the pushrod is a bit wider than the last push rod so I might need to drill another hole in the brake pedal pin to be able to insert a cotter pin. Plumbing will be the next task. The cylinder has
  8. When I did my harness I considered making my own but after getting a professionally built one I'm really glad I used their services instead of trying to learn yet another craft. When I priced out the cost differential it wasn't $1000 but more likely a few $100 difference. The big issue with cost is that I wanted to have true color markings for every wire. Doing so meant spending a lot for lots of different colored wires and gauges. Adding period correct terminations also added greatly to the cost. If you have a lot of time and you like to learn new crafts go for it. For me, I factored in th
  9. In addition to adding the turn signal wires I would also upgrade the gauge of the wires to the headlights. In addition to the many suggestions for additional wires I also added a wire for an electric fuel pump and fan. Th fuel pump is used to address vapor lock and is only used for priming; I still drive on the mechanical pump. The electric fan is just insurance. One of the big issues with headlight switches is that they create a significant voltage drop which can lead to dim headlights. With so much current going through the switches it can also lead to switch failure. For these reasons I
  10. Yup, I decided the JEGs expensive option was the way to go if for no reason other than it should give me a little room for slop when lining things up. I spent the morning talking to all the automotive supply places in town and not surprisingly they didn't carry anything like that. What was surprising was that they couldn't order anything like it either. Jeff
  11. Well it is going to be tight but I think it is going to work. Here is the cylinder shortly after I unpacked it. A big issue for me is the length and if you look at the pushrod you can see that I was already experimenting with trying to thread it further in to try to solve that issue. This image is after I cut off the ear and threaded the pushrod. The tape is close to where the rubber boot will end on the rod but it is also just about where I need to have a 3/8" eye connected to mount to the pedal. The plan is to cut the pushrod to be closer to the cylinder so that when I thread on the cap
  12. Marty, Thanks for the encouragement and contact. If the parts I ordered don't work I'll be sure to give Doug a call. Jeff
  13. Tom, Thanks for all the help. I ordered parts last night and it is looking like they will get to me early next week. Hopefully I'll have an update by the end of next week. Jeff
  14. Hi Tom, Ok, so that is the same cylinder, you just bought the version with the brackets. I previously looked at those pictures of the brackets but it didn't dawn on me that I could derive the width measurement that I need (DOH!). Thanks for pointing this out. Looking at the diagram I think the 1.75" from the center of the pushrod to the outside ear of the mounting tab is probably correct and a bit too large for my needs. However, as you point out, if I take advantage of the side mount option and grind off that ear I should be able to get the 1.25" that I need. It was the side mount option of
  15. Tom, Looking at your pictures and knowing that you ordered from JEGs it makes me wonder if you are using the "JEGS Performance Products#555-631405" cylinder. I looked at that cylinder and exchanged a number of emails with them and it sounds like a close fit. JEGs indicated that the distance from the center of the pushrod to the side of the cylinder was 1.75". Unfortunately, when I measure the current cylinder it is only 1.25" from the center of the pushrod to the side that mounts to the bracket in the frame. I think a 1/2" deflection over 4" is too much so it sounds like I'd have to replace
×
×
  • Create New...