Jeff_Miller

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About Jeff_Miller

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  1. Thanks for the info. I researched this before and I remember Oshawa Blue being a likely candidate so it is nice to see your guess being consistent with that.
  2. Sorry to steal the thread but I wondered if you could decode the paint code from my 1936 McGlaughlin. The paint code is 611 so the 6 seems to correspond to 1936 but what color was 11? Thanks, Jeff
  3. When I bought my 1936 McLaughlin it was running, driveable, and complete minus one hub cap and I paid about $10,000 U.S. complete with delivery from Toronto to MN. I have already sunk another almost $5,000 into it replacing wiring, fixing the starter, tires, brakes, and I'm not sure what else over the last 4 years. It came with old and bad paint which I still haven't gotten around to so I figure I'll easily spend as much restoring a solid car as I did buying it. I'm really surprised that car went for that much and it makes me wonder if perhaps I should put mine on the market. BTW: yes, many of the U.S. Buick parts fit the McLaughlin Buicks but it is maddeningly difficult to find trim and other things. I even got surprised when I had a new wiring harness made only to find that the US version had the regulator on the starter and the McGLaughlin has it on the firewall - that really busted my bubble.
  4. Magic juice, heat, a big breaker bar, and a lot of patience. The shocks are only held on with something like 4 bolts and they all have pretty good access if you have enough deep well sockets. I did skin a number of knuckles getting mine out but it was pretty straight forward. Once you get the shocks out be sure to replace the bump stops while you are at it.
  5. Why would you? I found that when I rebuilt my front end, including doing the shocks, that it drove just fine. Switching to better brakes might be nice but I'd still keep the rest of the front end.
  6. Great question; I wish I knew the answer but I'm still working on that. For a long time I was going to go the route of remote reservoirs that were designed to work with a wilwood cylinder. That cylinder was ultimately too long and when I gave up on that cylinder I gave up on the remote reservoirs. This new cylinder sits much higher and has bigger holes to pour fluid into so I don't expect to have as many problems with it as I did with trying to fill my old master cylinder but I still need to be able to get access to it. I happen to have good access to the cylinder if I remove the entire floor panel under my feet but I'm adding carpet and attaching the carpet such that I can retain that ability is going to be a challenge. I have two current thoughts. 1) Is to have carpet made that has a permanently installed section from the seat to the back of the compartment. The front section would be attached permanently to the firewall area but from where the floorboards become horizontal would only be attached with something like hook and loop tape or possibly some other modern automotive connector. Doing this should allow me to flip the carpet up to get access to the panel under my feet to fill the reservoir. Unfortunately it makes it difficult to finish on the door jam. I'd probably overlap the back with the front and put the back section under the kick plates and then have the front section bound and have it lie on top of the back section. I'm a little concerned about how this might cause issues with binding and bunching when I move the seat. 2) Is to make the carpet a permanent installation. It is easy to conceive of as carpeting everything and then cutting around the opening for the floor panel. In practice I'd cut the floor portion to overlap into the area the floor panel sits. I'd then capet the panel separately and overlap it to the sides as well. Most likely I'd need to cut the panel a bit smaller to address the overlap but the intent is to make the fit fairly tight so as to keep dust and noise out. Now being able to secure the panel as well as easily extract it is the challenge that I'm working on. I could see adding something like a flush pull that would sit in the carpet and lift up to extract the panel. If I could find something like that with a latching mechanism that I could adapt that would be my ultimate solution. Jeff
  7. Well after several delays from FedEx delivering my package to the wrong place, work, emergency shower demolition, and illness I just finally got a chance to try bolting things together today. It was a serious struggle to try to get bolted in (have I said yet that I sure wish I had a lift?). Tolerances are also extremely tight but it does fit, is aligned, and has full travel. The donut on the end of the pushrod is a bit wider than the last push rod so I might need to drill another hole in the brake pedal pin to be able to insert a cotter pin. Plumbing will be the next task. The cylinder has 1/2-20 fittings but it came with 3/8-24 adapters. The residual valves I got also have 3/8-24 fittings. Will it be ok to go from the 3/8-24 adapters at the cylinder, through the residual valve and than to up to 1/2-20 to match up with the rest of the brake fittings? I was disappointed with this at first but then realized that the hole in the bore of the cylinder is probably even smaller so there is already some increase in volume as you leave the cylinder. Jeff
  8. When I did my harness I considered making my own but after getting a professionally built one I'm really glad I used their services instead of trying to learn yet another craft. When I priced out the cost differential it wasn't $1000 but more likely a few $100 difference. The big issue with cost is that I wanted to have true color markings for every wire. Doing so meant spending a lot for lots of different colored wires and gauges. Adding period correct terminations also added greatly to the cost. If you have a lot of time and you like to learn new crafts go for it. For me, I factored in that this would have been my first harness from scratch and the realization that many of my "firsts" often took longer to accomplish than I wanted and often resulted in a lot of learning experiences that showed in the end product. Of course, you can fix those learning mistakes by spending more money and time Time was a huge factor in my case and for some reason I believed the time estimates my harness maker gave me. I didn't think I could order, figure out, learn, and accomplish building a harness in the 3 month time frame I was working in. Of course, my harness maker lied and although I didn't have nearly as much pain as Larry DiBarry I did end up missing an entire summer of driving because of this. Had I known how long it was going to take my harness maker my decision might have leaned more toward making it myself but in the end, I'm still glad I went with a professional. If you can get the original harness out to use as a pattern that would probably make the attempt a lot easier. If your harness is as decrepit and oil/grease stained as mine then the tracers will be worthless and wires will break as you take them out. That means a lot of labeling as you take it apart and hopefully remembering how to put it back together when you get done. Watch out for the oil/grease to make sure you don't get your new harness filthy before you get it back in. Jeff
  9. In addition to adding the turn signal wires I would also upgrade the gauge of the wires to the headlights. In addition to the many suggestions for additional wires I also added a wire for an electric fuel pump and fan. Th fuel pump is used to address vapor lock and is only used for priming; I still drive on the mechanical pump. The electric fan is just insurance. One of the big issues with headlight switches is that they create a significant voltage drop which can lead to dim headlights. With so much current going through the switches it can also lead to switch failure. For these reasons I elected to build a relay board that I mounted up near the vent (and hopefully away from any water). I was able to reroute wires from the standard harness to the relay board and add jumpers from the board to the headlight switch. This allowed me to reduce the current on the switch and reduce voltage drop through the relays and those fatter wires to give me much brighter headlights I struggled with the high beam wiring but never did figure out a way to use a standard wiring harness in such a way that I could separate the the driver side high beam so that it would only go on with the dimmer switch. At least not without cutting into the harness and after spending big bucks for a harness I didn't want to do that. Here are a few words of caution regarding what I learned when I did my harness. Definitely talk to and get advice from the guys building your harness. Use RI, Naragganset, Y&Z, or perhaps some other manufacture I don't know about but avoid the resellers like Cars, etc. You want to go to the source on this one if for no reason other than to make sure that any mods you want are addressed correctly; adding the middleman is just asking for confusion. Be prepared to wait. More than likely it will take at least twice as long as you want; in reality it will probably be three to four times as long as you want. If they tell you it will take 6 weeks, be prepared for at least 12 weeks. Also be prepared to nicely check on the status on a regular basis so that your build doesn't get put behind some other guy. My harness came with incorrect sockets for all the instrument lights. The "schematics" said that the manufacture of the harness didn't supply the correct ones but this wasn't known to me until the harness showed up. I ended up scavenging the sockets from the old harness and having to use shrink wrap instead of the period correct insulators. Definitely ask your manufacture about this so that you aren't surprised like I was and if they expect you to solder in your own sockets make them send the insulator material. When you get your harness be prepared to study the "schematics" for a long time. Also have a continuity checker available to sort things out when they aren't obvious. The "schematic" from my manufacture were likely for building the harness and only had a slim resemblance to the schematic from the manual. With a bit of patience it wasn't hard to figure out but I guarantee you will be scratching your head a few times. Jeff
  10. Yup, I decided the JEGs expensive option was the way to go if for no reason other than it should give me a little room for slop when lining things up. I spent the morning talking to all the automotive supply places in town and not surprisingly they didn't carry anything like that. What was surprising was that they couldn't order anything like it either. Jeff
  11. Well it is going to be tight but I think it is going to work. Here is the cylinder shortly after I unpacked it. A big issue for me is the length and if you look at the pushrod you can see that I was already experimenting with trying to thread it further in to try to solve that issue. This image is after I cut off the ear and threaded the pushrod. The tape is close to where the rubber boot will end on the rod but it is also just about where I need to have a 3/8" eye connected to mount to the pedal. The plan is to cut the pushrod to be closer to the cylinder so that when I thread on the capture nut the nut will be entirely within the boot. The eye will connect to the nut and I'll be able to screw it in and out a bit for some adjustment. I verified there is going to be sufficient travel in the cylinder to depress the brake fully and that even if I thread the nut on fully there is still enough clearance for the rod to swing as much as it did normally. These next two pictures show the cylinder mocked up on the bracket that held the original cylinder. I still need to fabricate spacers and cut the pushrod but otherwise these modifications are complete. Total impact on the originality of the car are two extra holes in the original bracket and different lines connecting the cylinder with the rest of the brake system. In addition to looking for stock to make spacers out of I'm still looking for an end to put on this thing. I ordered an end from JEGs that I knew was too large of a diameter but I thought I'd be able to find a bushing locally to cut the 5/8" inner diameter down to the 3/8" that my pedal requires. After several plastic bag hardware stores and big box improvement centers I now realize the folly of that approach. I found a steel end rod at McMaster Carr that I might order as well as this extra pricey option from JEGs that looks very appealing. The tolerances are extremely tight and if I had much more than 1/4" of maneuvering room I'd be surprised. The lesson learned on this effort was that you do not put the pushrod into the cylinder to mock things up. I did that to get better measurements and to help guide me in lining things up but as soon as it popped in I realized I'd screwed up. I could not get the rod out again no matter what I tried so that led to doing fabrication and threading with it in the cylinder; what a pain! I really want to get this thing into the car to verify all is well but after the first issue with the pushrod I figure I'll wait until I figure out the end portion so that I can play with everything on the bench instead of while standing on my head in the car. Thanks to everyone for you input. More pictures to follow after it gets in the car. Jeff
  12. Marty, Thanks for the encouragement and contact. If the parts I ordered don't work I'll be sure to give Doug a call. Jeff
  13. Tom, Thanks for all the help. I ordered parts last night and it is looking like they will get to me early next week. Hopefully I'll have an update by the end of next week. Jeff
  14. Hi Tom, Ok, so that is the same cylinder, you just bought the version with the brackets. I previously looked at those pictures of the brackets but it didn't dawn on me that I could derive the width measurement that I need (DOH!). Thanks for pointing this out. Looking at the diagram I think the 1.75" from the center of the pushrod to the outside ear of the mounting tab is probably correct and a bit too large for my needs. However, as you point out, if I take advantage of the side mount option and grind off that ear I should be able to get the 1.25" that I need. It was the side mount option of this cylinder that put it on my radar. I'm really glad you helped me see that with a bit of modification that this will likely be the solution I need. The only other option I had left was the Wilwood 260-7563 but that would require a bit more fabrication to make it work. BTW: It looks like I'll need to order an eye nut or something similar to connect the rod to my pedal. I see JEGs has options but I wondered if you had to do that as well. Also, is there anything on the cylinder to capture the pushrod or does it just float on the cylinder and gets captured by aligning the brake pedal with the cylinder? Thanks for all the help. Jeff
  15. Tom, Looking at your pictures and knowing that you ordered from JEGs it makes me wonder if you are using the "JEGS Performance Products#555-631405" cylinder. I looked at that cylinder and exchanged a number of emails with them and it sounds like a close fit. JEGs indicated that the distance from the center of the pushrod to the side of the cylinder was 1.75". Unfortunately, when I measure the current cylinder it is only 1.25" from the center of the pushrod to the side that mounts to the bracket in the frame. I think a 1/2" deflection over 4" is too much so it sounds like I'd have to replace the bracket or cut away some of it to use that master cylinder. If it is convenient and this is your cylinder, could you verify the measurement that JEGs provided? Thanks, Jeff