zephyrdave
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Posts posted by zephyrdave
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A strange thing has happened to the intake gasket. After driving the car to cruise nights and shows all summer, I never noticed before, but it looks like the intake gasket has grown in length. It is sticking out at both ends of the intake. This is the first summer of driving after the car and engine were restored. I have a PCV valve connected from the original vent hole to the intake manifold just below carb. I'm thinking crankcase pressure shouldn't be a factor with a PCV connected. It appears to have stretched, but how can this be possible?
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I just went in the back door at shipping at Toronto location and asked for two lengths which I bought. Search the interweb for trim, they can't be the only company.
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Got some more info on trim. Got it from Extrude A Trim. There was two sizes a few years ago that would work. I put a 10/24 screw in wire cutters, then screwed the whole works into the tapped hole in the trim. Then squeeze the wire cutters to cut off the head, and now you have a stud that you can put a nut on. I did put a small amount of epoxy in the threaded hole first. One of the pics shows how to bend width of the trim to follow the running board vertical curve. To bend the depth of the trim where it follows from rear fender to running board is not as hard because the trim is only about 3/16 thick. Bend it over something like a six inch tube. Hope that helps.
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Vacuum goes to the single 3/8 port and the canister lines go to the other two 3/8 ports. BUT, the two 5/16 ports are used to let air back into the 3/8 lines that don't have vacuum. When you activate the OD, one of the 3/8 lines to the canister will have vacuum, the other will not. To let air back into the line that doesn't have vacuum, the 5/16 lines are T'ed into the two 3/8 lines. If you need a piping diagram, let me know.
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I'll try to get some more info for you in the next few days.
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I found extruded aluminum trim that has almost exactly the same profile as original. It might be used as boat trim. I shaped the trim to fit the car. I very carefully drilled and tapped the back side, being careful not to drill through the trim, then installed 1/4 20 studs. Get the trim unanodized so it can be polished. You might be surprized how good this looks.
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On my Columbia I used a 6 port Pollak fuel switching valve and a reversing switch on the dash. When in third gear I push in the clutch and flick the switch on the dash up, then let out the clutch. You are now in OD. To get out of OD, I wait until the car has slowed down to about 25 or 30 mph, then push in the clutch and flick the switch to the bottom which reverses the polarity to the Pollak valve and let out the clutch. You are now in normal drive. The Pollak is normally used to switch fuel tanks on pickups, but it now is used to switch vacuum to the canister on the Columbia. Google 6 port pollak valve and you will see that some come with the switch and wiring plug. Works on 6 or 12 volts. Works great for me, just like shifting into fourth.
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Beautiful day for a cruise. Went to the war plane museum in Hamilton Ontario and took this pic. The plane is a B25 Mitchell
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It's welded in. I've restored 37's 38 and 39. They are all welded.
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I can share my experiance with my rebuild, but John Connelly is the expert. Once you get into it, it's not that complicated.
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I just finished rebuilding a 2 speed for my 39 over the winter. It's a good thing I did because the cork clutch pads were deteriorated and stuck to the outer housing. Start by draining the diff. oil then removing the brake lines, hubs and backing plates spring shackles. Remove the vacuum assembly. Remove the left side axle housing, then remove the wire tyed bolts on the ring gear. The center section stays in the car. Remove the ring gear. I then removed the right side from the center section as an assembly. I put the assembly on the bench and removed the "sheetmetal" housing. At this point I had to use a press to get the speedo gear off the axle, then remove the axle from the assembly. You will see an assembly with the shifter fork on it. Clean it all off withn a solvent and you will see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the washer under it. You will now see where the clutches are, I think there are 10. Carefully tap out the inner metal that holds the clutches in place, it kinda looks like a spider with 10 legs. The clutches and springs may fall out, or you might have to scrape the clutch cork off the outer housing. John Connely at Columbia 2 speed has rebuild parts. I needed the clutch rebuild parts and appropriate gaskets. You should check to see if all other parts are OK before reassembly.
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Your coupe is looking real nice. I couldn't find that lower nose piece for my 38 and 39. I ended up making them, one on a plannishing hammer and the other using a roller and shrinker to get the reverse curves. BTW, thanks for info on pinion shaft, I've never had mine apart to know if it is 6 or 10 spline.
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Make sure that the battery cable is on the battery terminal of the solenoid and the starter cable is on the starter terminal of the solenoid. If they are reversed you might not get any action from the solenoid. That happened to me.
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Could someone please confirm that the 39 zephyr pinion shaft is 6 spline, same as ford. Thanks
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Has anyone used a Mitchell overdrive on there torque tube instead of a Columbia on the rear end?
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Going to try to find a columbia for the 39 Zephyr over the winter. A friend has a housing with HB4045 cast in it and one with 68-4045 cast in it. I think the HB is Lincoln housing and the 68 is Ford housing? Maybe someone can confirm this. Hopefully I can find enough parts to make this happen. Dave
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I left the interior as is for now, until I save up some more bucks. That part I will have to farm out. It's got patienna or however you spell that word.
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Thanks to everyone who answered or commented on questions I had while in the process of restoration. I got the car licensed and on the road. Went to a car show/fleamarket on the weekend for the maiden voyage. About 80 miles there and back combined. Drove at about 40 to 50 mph, no problems except, on some older paved roads, the bias ply tires seemed to want to go where they wanted, not where I wanted. Maybe Coker 700R16 tires would help. Also a columbia would certainly help, at 50 mph the engine sounds like it would blow up if I went any faster. Thanks Dave
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I bought two 6 volt coils with internal resister to make my own coil assembly. I know rebuilds are available, but I just want to try it myself. I guess I will have to bypass the resistors under the dash? During the winter I will remove the whole distributor and inspect all the internals.
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After running the engine with another old coil I have, the spark began to return to the drivers side. I also read that the left and right coils serve their respective sides of the motor, even though the wires go to both sides. That leads me to believe that one side of the former coil was bad. I now have spark on both sides, but at higher speeds the engine seems a little rough. Maybe these old coils lose some spark with heat and engine load.
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The weirdest thing, took the car for its first shake down drive. After about 5 minutes the engine started to run rough. Came home, pulled each plug wire off, one at a time, with engine running. Passenger side had good spark from each wire to each plug. Driver side had poor spark from each wire to spark plug. The spark plug wires are new. I put on a different coil and changed the condensors from side to side, still the same thing. How can this happen when each side of the distributor fires both sides of the engine. This may be nothing to do with it, but the iron heads are coated with ceramic header coating. The battery cable is grounded to the passenger side head. I wonder if the driver side head is not grounded enough? I'm stumped.
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According to the wiring diagram I have from Narraganset, the low beam filament is on all the time when the lights are turned on, and the foot activated high beam switch adds the high beam filament, so both are on together for high beam.On other newer cars, the low and high beam filaments come on separately. Is this true or did I have a brain fart. Dave
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Thanks alot, as soon as the wire arrives I'll get on it.
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Thanks peecher, I don't have the correct wire lengths. If you could post them, that would be great. Dave
39 V12 Intake Gasket
in Lincoln & Zephyr
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I'm going to pull the intake carefully to see what the gasket looks like. If it is indeed stretched, then the car will need an exorcist.