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zephyrdave

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Everything posted by zephyrdave

  1. Anybody out there have two 38 or 39 Lincoln Zephyr glove box door handles? Thanks
  2. That's strange because the dashes on my 4 zephyrs 37, 38 and 39 were all welded in. The consoles were bolted in.
  3. I found the car on a farm rusted out and no motor. Bought the car, found picks of a real convertible sedan, cut, slice and dice to get same look as original. Made a folding top. Made a double wall frame with crossmember. Added a V8 and some paint, then went for a drive to a show in Detroit where someone really liked it. I agreed to let him take care of it for me if he paid me. Some might say it's sold, but after all that work I still like to think it's mine. I still have my 38 and 39 coupes.
  4. I have 2 1938 zephyr wide 5 rear brake drums. Never been turned, still 12" Email me if you need them.
  5. Still time to vote if you haven't yet. Voting ends Feb. 3 2014. You might even win tickets to the show were you might see the mayor in a drunken stuper. He likes to party.
  6. Thanks for the support guys. BTW there are better pics at this link, just type in 1939 Lincoln zephyr and scroll down till you see them.http://www.flickr.com/
  7. Up here in the frozen north(Toronto) ten cars were selected from local cruise nights to compete against each other for grand champion of the cruise nationals at the Toronto International Auto Show. If you go to the link provided you can vote for your favorite car. http://www.autoshow.ca/cias2014/cruise/vote/index.php
  8. Anybody heard from Earle Brown. Called a week ago, left message, then called yesterday, still no luck. Need front spring stud/bushings.
  9. I bought a Bob Drake pump for my newly rebuilt engine. It ran for about 10 minutes and the pump arm broke. I took the internals and top casing from the Bob Drake pump and installed them on the old pump and haven't had any problems. I compared the pump arms, the original is beefier. As for mounting, I removed the oil tube, mounted the pump to the tube and then dropped the whole assembly onto the intake flange.
  10. Well, I removed the intake and found that the gasket had delaminated and somehow the delaminated parts (front and rear of manifold) pushed their way out. It is a paper gasket that I think came in a gasket set. I bought a new gasket that is laminated with a wire mesh, something like a head gasket. Maybe the solid paper one was from China.
  11. I'm going to pull the intake carefully to see what the gasket looks like. If it is indeed stretched, then the car will need an exorcist.
  12. A strange thing has happened to the intake gasket. After driving the car to cruise nights and shows all summer, I never noticed before, but it looks like the intake gasket has grown in length. It is sticking out at both ends of the intake. This is the first summer of driving after the car and engine were restored. I have a PCV valve connected from the original vent hole to the intake manifold just below carb. I'm thinking crankcase pressure shouldn't be a factor with a PCV connected. It appears to have stretched, but how can this be possible?
  13. I just went in the back door at shipping at Toronto location and asked for two lengths which I bought. Search the interweb for trim, they can't be the only company.
  14. Got some more info on trim. Got it from Extrude A Trim. There was two sizes a few years ago that would work. I put a 10/24 screw in wire cutters, then screwed the whole works into the tapped hole in the trim. Then squeeze the wire cutters to cut off the head, and now you have a stud that you can put a nut on. I did put a small amount of epoxy in the threaded hole first. One of the pics shows how to bend width of the trim to follow the running board vertical curve. To bend the depth of the trim where it follows from rear fender to running board is not as hard because the trim is only about 3/16 thick. Bend it over something like a six inch tube. Hope that helps.
  15. Vacuum goes to the single 3/8 port and the canister lines go to the other two 3/8 ports. BUT, the two 5/16 ports are used to let air back into the 3/8 lines that don't have vacuum. When you activate the OD, one of the 3/8 lines to the canister will have vacuum, the other will not. To let air back into the line that doesn't have vacuum, the 5/16 lines are T'ed into the two 3/8 lines. If you need a piping diagram, let me know.
  16. I'll try to get some more info for you in the next few days.
  17. I found extruded aluminum trim that has almost exactly the same profile as original. It might be used as boat trim. I shaped the trim to fit the car. I very carefully drilled and tapped the back side, being careful not to drill through the trim, then installed 1/4 20 studs. Get the trim unanodized so it can be polished. You might be surprized how good this looks.
  18. On my Columbia I used a 6 port Pollak fuel switching valve and a reversing switch on the dash. When in third gear I push in the clutch and flick the switch on the dash up, then let out the clutch. You are now in OD. To get out of OD, I wait until the car has slowed down to about 25 or 30 mph, then push in the clutch and flick the switch to the bottom which reverses the polarity to the Pollak valve and let out the clutch. You are now in normal drive. The Pollak is normally used to switch fuel tanks on pickups, but it now is used to switch vacuum to the canister on the Columbia. Google 6 port pollak valve and you will see that some come with the switch and wiring plug. Works on 6 or 12 volts. Works great for me, just like shifting into fourth.
  19. Beautiful day for a cruise. Went to the war plane museum in Hamilton Ontario and took this pic. The plane is a B25 Mitchell
  20. It's welded in. I've restored 37's 38 and 39. They are all welded.
  21. I can share my experiance with my rebuild, but John Connelly is the expert. Once you get into it, it's not that complicated.
  22. I just finished rebuilding a 2 speed for my 39 over the winter. It's a good thing I did because the cork clutch pads were deteriorated and stuck to the outer housing. Start by draining the diff. oil then removing the brake lines, hubs and backing plates spring shackles. Remove the vacuum assembly. Remove the left side axle housing, then remove the wire tyed bolts on the ring gear. The center section stays in the car. Remove the ring gear. I then removed the right side from the center section as an assembly. I put the assembly on the bench and removed the "sheetmetal" housing. At this point I had to use a press to get the speedo gear off the axle, then remove the axle from the assembly. You will see an assembly with the shifter fork on it. Clean it all off withn a solvent and you will see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the washer under it. You will now see where the clutches are, I think there are 10. Carefully tap out the inner metal that holds the clutches in place, it kinda looks like a spider with 10 legs. The clutches and springs may fall out, or you might have to scrape the clutch cork off the outer housing. John Connely at Columbia 2 speed has rebuild parts. I needed the clutch rebuild parts and appropriate gaskets. You should check to see if all other parts are OK before reassembly.
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