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Everything posted by zephyrdave

  1. The owner will be talking to the engine company. I suspect they will probably say bring the engine in, so that means I will have to pull the engine and get it to them. Like I said, the engine fires up and runs fine.
  2. Yes, the best place to be for the next while, in the garage alone.
  3. The center gear is there, I can see it when I remove the pump. One thing I do know is, this is creates a lot more work.
  4. I had the engine fired up for 20 seconds before I found the no oil pressure problem. Engine runs fine. Pump gear is pressed onto camshaft, they are not just one piece. I believe the early v12 oil pump gear was pressed onto a round shaft at the end of the cam. Later engines went to D shaped shaft. I suspect gear is spinning on shaft or broken teeth.
  5. I used one from Newport Engineering on my 38. Rebuilt originals are on ebay. Got a rebuilt one for a 37 on ebay, works good.
  6. Installed a new M19 instead of M15 just because I thought it would be the correct pump for a rebuilt engine. Installed pump without pickup tube so I can see the pump gears. Marked one gear lobe with sharpie. Turned engine by hand and then looked at the gear lobe. It had not moved! Turned engine by hand 3 more times, still no gear movement detected! PUMP IS NOT TURNING. I guess that's why no pressure. Maybe gear on cam is slipping. Now the engine will have to be removed because this engine rebuild company didn't do their job properly. What a PITA
  7. Called my friend (car owner), told him about the tube. He routed through paper work he has and came up with this article by Jake. Now we know! Also bent the pickup tube because pickup was on bottom of pan. Called engine rebuilder again today and told them when I removed the oil plug , it was bone dry. They finally admitted that they never tested engine for oil pressure after saying they did. Also, the tube (that is missing) from the rear main bearing cap directs oil from slinger to crankcase. Not absolutely necessary if crankcase seal is good.
  8. This is an M15 pump. It does have a pickup. Some say M19 would be better. The tube from the rear main is missing. Does this matter? I,ll pull the pump and inspect tomorrow.
  9. With some difficulty (wishbone) I got the oil pan off and found what looks like an M15 pump and piece of copper tube that looks like it might go up to rear of cam somewhere and open at bottom end? Looks like there is enough clearance from pickup to pan. Have not removed pump yet, but should the M15 be an M19 instead? What is the copper tube?
  10. Thanks to all that have given advice. Next step, start taking things apart to see what I can find.
  11. I found these two pieces in a box of bolts and things returned by the builder with the engine. Looks like a restrictor fitting and pressure regulator. I'm thinking the restricted end screws into engine port and the flare fitting end goes to filter. I don't know what the bolt on the fitting is for? I hope the regulator was removed because it was replaced. I called the company that rebuilt the motor a while ago and asked if they ever tested this motor. He said they put engines on a stand and the engine is spun by an electric motor to test oil pressure. After I was told that, I pulled the crankcase plug and found it bone dry. How can they test with no oil or maybe I'm missing something.
  12. Excellent point! I will watch for this when I pull the pan. The car owner (a friend of mine), said he gave the builder a new pump for the rebuild.
  13. Thanks for the info. Looks like it's time to drop the pan.
  14. Does it matter which port is used to go to filter?
  15. It is a 37 block, two port. Does it matter which port is used to go to filter? When I ran the motor there was oil in crankcase and filter and lid was on filter. Also ran with oil line off and no oil comes out line.
  16. Still no oil pressure.! Removed sender and filled engine with oil by pumping oil through this port with pump. Started motor, ran it for 20 seconds, no pressure on mechanical gauge. Tested gauge OK. Oil pressure line is connected to the horizontal port on bell housing then 90 degrees up to where sender is. Is this the correct port? I wonder if the rebuilder did not connect oil pickup or gear that drives oil pump?
  17. Thanks Tom, I can see how that would create pressure in the line for the sensor to sense.
  18. 1. Turned over rebuilt engine for the first time. Should I see oil flowing into filter canister? 2. How does sender unit detect pressure if oil in canister just goes back into oil pan? Is there a restrictor after the sending unit?
  19. I am installing a radio in a coupe I am working on for a friend. The radio head is missing the special nuts that go under the radio knobs and hold the head in place. Are there any sources for these nuts?
  20. The top of my b pillar was removable just as an original 38 would have been. I made c channels to press fit into original c channel frame and then weld. This would make it a double wall c channel frame, plus a X member added. I'm not in a hurry for handles, when you get to them, just let me know. I'm near Toronto. d.jolly@sympatico.ca
  21. Just for fun here is a convertible 37 I made in the 90's. I had to reinforce the frame. I will have my custom convertible 38 zephyr at Detroit Autorama if you are going. Also, I would be interested if you had two 39 door handles without any dents for my 39 coupe.
  22. Mine leaked. I had to drop the pan, remove the float and re-solder the float. I wonder if when it heats up the air inside, it pushes the oil out of the float and when the engine and float cool, the air in the float contracts and sucks a little oil back in. Then the float sinks again.
  23. Billorn, yes the top folds down as original convertible would.
  24. Yes, I still have the 39 coupe. Taking it Cobble Beach Concours in two weeks.
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