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C'mon, help a starving family out here!!

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1980 Dodge Lil Red Express Clone. This is NOT an original Lil Red Express. 340 engine, Lunati VooDoo Cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Holley Carb, Comp Magnum roller rockers, ARP main studs, ARP head studs, ARP stainless engine fasteners outside motor, windage tray, Mellings high volume oil pump, Mellings double roller timing set, Denso mini-starter, Denso 85 amp mini-alternator, Taylor plug wires, Cal-Custom valve covers, Accel Ignition system with rev limiter, K&N air filter, coated shorty headers, full stainless steel exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, A833 O/D four speed (.73 final gear ratio) 8 3/4 rear axle with 3.55 Sure Grip gears (clutch type not cone type). Cragar S/S wheels, McLeod clutch. All fasteners either stainless or grade 8 throughout. Classic Auto Air A/C, PS, PB. Boxed frame. KYB shocks, all new suspension parts throughout. New Brazilian teak bed floor with stainless strips. Helper air bags, class III trailer hitch with trailer brakes. Custom interior with bucket seats, aftermarket guages, sound and thermal barriers, CD player, Sirius Radio dock. Stainless brake lines, Holley fuel pump, AN fuel lines throughout (no rubber fuel lines) The truck has been FULLY frame off restored. The truck has about 5000 miles since it's restoration. While it is not an exact replica of an original Lil Red Express, it is a custom version. This truck is a lot of fun to drive. It gets about 16-17 mpg in overdrive on the highway. It will pull a full size car on a trailer. Literally no part of this truck has not been rebuilt or replaced during the restoration. Price is $17,000 or best offer. All reciepts from the restoration, all owner's manuals and directions for all aftermarket parts, and a factory service manual go with the truck. I have some spare parts (grille, original seats, spare console, etc) and a parts truck that go with the truck. Contact me at brianlegrandcooper@gmail.com For all the pictures of the restoration from the ground up please visit this website: http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album02

That's pretty cool! Are you going to put a hot motor in it? You could put a nasty Cossie in it like this one: http://www.mat.fi/project1929fordmodel-a.htm

Mine is simple: 18 1957 Plymouths. All colors and body styles. Motors, trim, options, whatever. Just 18 1957 Plymouths.

I've asked to be changed back. They don't return my e-mails. I just don't go there much anymore. Who has money to spend anyway?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rusty_OToole</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you did up a Dodge M37 you must be familiar with the Vintage Power Wagon folks out in Iowa. They are one of the best sources for your engine. Andy Bernbaum is another good source of parts http://www.oldmoparts.com/ </div></div> Bernbaum is a thief. Try Gary Goers. He is reasonable and honest.

Well... I have my truck, which is a HOT ROD: http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album02 Then I have my wife's Camaro that is a HOT ROD: http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album03 And I have my 57 Plymouth, that I plan to frame-off STOCK one day: http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album10 So, I guess not. I'm too busy building HOT ROD cars right now.

Wow, Carter and Johnson both had Amphicars. That is not a ringing endorsement for Amphicars.

I once agreed to do a brake job on a Fiat X-19 sight unseen. The car came in with Michigan plates (I'm in South Carolina) I spent a solid week just trying to get the rusty parts off the right rear wheel. I gave up after that one wheel and sent it back.

I have a Backyard Buddy. It is very convenient for anything that does not involve removing the tires. It can also be moved around the garage, so I am not tied to one bay. http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album10&id=Picture_016

I've never used, nor am I advertising for Ultra One. I have looked at their website and it is intersting. I hate to see the car touched by anyone. It should be preserved, not restored.

Just took a few shots of my ol' heap out on the street. Figured I would take advantage of some of the fall color. http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album15

NO!!!! Both options will kill your paint. Use either a degreaser for paint prep or 3M adhesive remover spray. I use 3M tape, but the green stuff works better than the blue.

Stay away from Doc's. He messed mine up.

For gentle cleaning, you can't go wrong with cheap stuff... I use a product you can get at the center of all evil (walmart) called Fabuloso. It's cheap but effective. Cut it at the rate of 1/4 cup or less to a gallon of water. Gently scrub with a microfiber towel. Rinse and repeat untill you are a happy camper.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jimkf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My worst car...a 75 Chrysler Cordoba with the 360 lean burn engine. A short time after purchasing it, the car started to run rough. A compression test revealed a burned valve...I guess the engine was burning just a bit too lean! That was fixed and a new computer was installed...and it happened again. So, the dealer fixed everything one more time. That fix lasted about 2 months and a valve in the other head cracked. I gave up and traded the car for a near new Lincoln. That was the best car I ever owned. </div></div> That Lean Burn stuff was horrible!! The only nightmares worse than that were the Caddy 4-6-8 engines and that stupid Cross Fire Injection Chebby used.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: windjamer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No second or 3rd badge. AACA dos give a second and 3erd place throphy if you have the min. score req. and are with in 10 points of the highest scoring car in the jr. category for that place See pg. 41 sec.2 BTW, The trophys AACA gives out are in no way a p. o. s..You can be da-- proud of ANY you rec. </div></div> Thanks. Would I loose points for not removing my POC badge at an AACA event?

So if I leave the POC thrid place badge on I'm okay. What about the second and third place AACA Junior awards?

While reading the rule book (yes, I can read!) I saw the winner plaques shown. Of course, that made me have questions. Don't you hate it when I have questions? 1: Is there a Junior winner plaque or grille badge for all three positions or just first place? 2: I won a third at a Plymouth Owner's Club meet. I have my third place grille plaque on the car. Would I have to remove it? Would I lose points for having it? I have seen a lot of questions about license plate frames and stealership, er, dealership badges lately.

I had two bad ones: Ford 500. I had it 55,000 miles. It went through three sets of tires, two sets of brakes (all 4 corners), both rear hubs, a power steering rack, and a transmission. Ford Freestar. I had it 75,000 miles. Four sets of tires, five sets of brakes (4 corners), two transmissions, both CV axles, two alternators, two batteries, an A/C compressor, a broken passenger seat (it just dropped back with no one sitting in it!) and three recalls. Both of these were company cars, so I had no choice when Nationwide Insurance assigned to me. They were both brand-stinkin-new when I got them, I pulled the window sticker off of both of them when I got them. Now I'm a Chrysler and GM man for life.

How much?

Maybe I'm the exception, but I carry one of these small disposeable units in all my cars. Cheap insurance I have actually used once. They don't go far, but they made a difference for me. Come on, $21 to potentially save your car? Cheaper than a tank of gas, why not?