Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

39Super8's Achievements

500+ Points

500+ Points (2/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. A '39 actually. Very interesting example. Thanks for sharing!
  2. Rear end gears or overdrive? Well, in my case… both. Here in the southwest we have many empty miles of 75mph interstate highway. My car has the old 320 with the modernized all steel body. A fairly light package with overall good power to weight ratio. With 4.36:1 gears and no overdrive, the car was happy cruising at about 45 – 50 mph. Granted it could be pushed farther, I am very conservative and like to run these old engines in their sweet spot. With the addition of overdrive, the car now cruises along happily at 60ish mph. This in my opinion, is a vast improvement for my driving needs in the driving conditions of the Southwest. The engine easily pulls the overall gearing in high gear overdrive, in fact, I find myself wishing I could make one more shift. Going from 4.36 to 3.92:1 gears will solve this. Some will tell you there is no need for OD, and in their individual driving environment, that might well be the case, but I can tell you, if I had the torque and horsepower of that fantastic V-12 at my disposal, with such good power to weight ratio, I would gear it to the moon! It makes for such a relaxed and enjoyable mode of touring.
  3. Hello 28 Chrysler, Well, looks like you have the 391st car built at the <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:City>Louisville plant</ST1:p It is a standard built 4 door sedan. It is Polar white body and Regal red roof. The interior is Silver Vinyl and Black Pebble cloth. The projected build date was September 21 1959 It has a 3 speed standard transmission and a 3.56:1 rear axle ratio. <O:p Neat car. Base model, base engine, base transmission, base hubcaps, with optional two-tone roof. Looks like it has a radio, and likely a lever-temp heater. <O:p Please let me know if I can be of any assistance. I am very familiar with these cars. <O:p Best of luck, Jim
  4. Mark, if I remember right it was 18 on center nuts and 16 on outer outboard nuts. I believe this allows for creeping without breaking the manifold or destroying the gasket. I used the feel method for the reason you mentioned, no good access. Ken, does that sound about right on the torque? Jim
  5. Ahh yes, I had Olsen’s manufacture exhaust gaskets for my Hall-Scott a number of years back. They worked out very well. They weren’t metal clad, but didn’t blow out. Good suggestion Ken Jim
  6. Egge machine in Santa Fe Springs California sold me a set of gaskets that were metal clad and seemed very high quality. They have been on my car and working well for almost 3 years and a couple thousand miles so far. Another issue as strange as it may sound is to not over torque the fasteners. I believe the torque spec. is surprisingly low. The manifolds have to be able to move and not wreck the gasket. Best of luck, Jim
  7. West, I have a pair of side mount fenders that are going to need some work. You can’t imagine how much I appreciate your step by step demo of the work and tools used on your car. I have used a shrinking disk on a disc grinder with success in some instances, and a shrinking hammer with mixed results. I have always wondered about the slap file method. It looks highly effective for this particular job. Thanks! Jim
  8. Mal, Thanks for posting the PInfo. link. I missed that thread somehow. Great read. Interesting perspective some have on maximum sustained RPM. I suppose at the end of the day, this is the sole choice of each car owner / operator. As for low gears v. tall gears, overdrive v. not, I just spent a couple hours with the wife and friends in our super 8 motoring through a neighborhood on a hill side looking at christmas lights. The long stroke and 4:36 gears made for a most pleasent experience. When finished with our tour of the neighborhood, into overdrive and on the freeway at 60ish with no strain. In my case, 39 was the first year overdrive was avaliable. It is a relativly easy and inexpensive proposition. In Ken's case it was not an avaliable option, and would require expense and much fabrication. Taller rear gears would be fine on the highway, but that wonderful low speed stump pulling torque would be gone. Tough choice, but it sounds like Ken already has a plan.
  9. Some very interesting replys. Ken, let me ask you; what RPM do you feel is sustainable? do you feel 2450 @ 55 MPH is acceptable? I have never really seen anyone with this family of engine give a definitive redline, or cruise RPM, just lots of speculation.
  10. Ken, <O:p</O:p I guess the first question is what are the dimensions of the engine. In your case, 3.5” x 5” is one heck of a bore and stroke. My little 320 has a 3 3/16”th bore but shares the same 5” stroke. My thinking a few years back during my own questions much like the ones you have posed were RPM’s are the enemy. These long stroke monsters generate tremendous loads at high RPM’s. In my mind, based on some engine math I did at that time, and just how the engine felt and sounded, my conclusion in my own case was ideally 1900, and up to 2100 – 2200 sustained and bursts of 2300 – maybe 2400 in short servings. What Trimacar described is exactly the failure I observed in my own inserts as well as many other inserts / and babbited rods I looked at any chance I got. I truly think they had issues with the early insert rod bearing design, at least in the 320 engine. <O:p</O:p I will say this, the 28% overdrive makes the car so relaxed and pleasant. It’s just the feeling of not beating on the poor long stroke monster, but capitalizing on all that torque. I went for modern inserts and overdrive, and haven’t looked back yet. <O:p</O:p With all that said, these cars were driven at 50 / 55 MPH when new. The bearings lasted fairly well. Owen-Dyneto (Dave) has often cited that he operates his 34 at 50 /55 MPH and has 45,000 miles with little trouble. Other regulars here (with many different screen names) have professed dooms day proclamations concerning any car with babbited rods. <O:p</O:p Like I said, you have a good handle on this. You know how your car feels, and how hard the engine is spinning. If there is a sweet spot around 50, and you are comfortable with the babbited bearings, keep doing what you have been doing. <O:p</O:p Jim
  11. Sounds like you understand the up's and down's of bearing choices and are comfortable with the MPH limits that will have to be lived with. I think you have answered your own question. Enjoy, Jim
  12. Ken, My 320 equiped car felt wound out at 50 mph. When I put overdrive back in, it is totally different, basically loafing along at 50 / 55 and easily capable of 65. Trimacar, that is the best explination of insert v. Babbitt I have seen yet. I am still waiting for one certain poster to clear this up, and somehow make about V-12's :-)
  13. This is sure to be a very interesting educational thread. I myself pondered these same things a few years ago. I chose the fitment of new inserts. I think one Packard expert in particular will have much excellent advice and guidance for you. Good Luck, Jim
  14. You would think that should be true, but the strange thing is at times it is very difficult to even sell a complete overdrive "kit" for a reasonable price. At times, some are more interested in saving a few dollars by buying a bare transmission and then try to cobble the rest together, only to find that there are many differences in years and applications, and that each individual part is expensive. I think at this point, projects are a very hard sell. Last complete 356 sold here locally for $500 dollars.
  15. Please post pictures and a little more info on recent history such as restoration and maintenance. The more info. the more chance of getting better response. Best of luck, Jim
  • Create New...