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John_Mc

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Everything posted by John_Mc

  1. Guys, my temp gauge on my 1970 Ford Torino GT does not work, always reads cold. When jumping the sending unit the gauge goes to hot instantly. I've checked for contunity on the sending unit and it reads around 500-600 at room tempreture. Is my next step to replace the sending unit? Am I correct in assuming the instrument voltage regulator is not at fault sinc all the other gauges are working normally? Thanks for all input! John McCarthy
  2. Hi, I need to sell my Torino GT Fastback. North Carolina car, 66,000 original miles. 75% original paint & laser stripe. Brand new wide ovals, brand new correct exhaust system. ZERO RUST ANYWHERE! This car is an unbelievable solid original. Contact me for all sorts of pictures etc. I just bought a 1956 Lincoln so this car needs to go like yesterday. I've only owned it a short time and only want to sell it for what I have into it down to the penny. $12,950. Thanks!
  3. Oops, I feel like an idiot, thanks very much!
  4. Hi, I need to sell my Torino GT Fastback. North Carolina car, 66,000 original miles. 75% original paint & laser stripe. Brand new wide ovals, brand new correct exhaust system. ZERO RUST ANYWHERE! This car is an unbelievable solid original. Contact me for all sorts of pictures etc. I just bought a 1956 Lincoln so this car needs to go like yesterday. I've only owned it a short time and only want to sell it for what I have into it down to the penny. $12,950. Thanks! John McCarthy 815-455-9253 Cell 847-997-9944
  5. Bob, yep, that's what I was thinking.................looks like I'd better yank the pump.
  6. Guys, I'm loosing my mind, perhaps someone out there can tell me what the heck is going on. My steering box upper seal on my 1964 Thunderbird has been leaking for years and I finally decided to fix it. I took out the box (no fun) and had it rebuilt by a family owned company in Detroit that has been rebuild these boxes since the 50's. I picked it up and installed it. Almost instantly the engine was started, the top seal blew out throwing steering fluid all over the engine bay - NOT GOOD. I of course called the re-builder the next day and he said that he had never heard of such a thing but he would take another look at and see what happened. I personally was there when he replaced the seal and pressure tested the box to over 1,000 lbs. (almost twice what the pump puts out)with no leaks whatsoever. I take the box home and again install it. The engine starts and I run it for about a minute or so and the box is perfect - no leaks. In order to bleed the system I began to move the steering wheel back and forth. As I do this, I heard a noise coming from the steering pump. Assuming the pump reserve was now dry I added fluid to the reservoir to bleed the system. As I add fluid the noise is VERY loud and the top seal again blows sending fluid once again all over!! NOT HAPPY! What the hell is going on here? It can't be the box because it was tested and it should not be the pump because I never had trouble with it in the past. Sounds to me like the pump or box or line is constricted or blocked in some way. Where do I start???? Did I screw something up? I need help indeed, thanks for all replies.
  7. Tom, that would be great, thanks. Also, I'll be at the Packard/Studebaker meet this week, hpt to mee up.
  8. Gentlemen of the old car brotherhood, can anyone recommend an auto shipper to bring the 1963 Falcon I just sold to Ann Arbor Michigan? I need to get someone good - and fast. (hmm...sounds like me)
  9. Thanks for the tips, I'll keep you posted.
  10. Hi all, suddenly my '64 T'bird will not start. I just installed my newly rebuilt steering box and now the car won't start! Could these issues be connected somehow? It spins like mad - plenty of battery. Fuel is clearly getting into the carb, in fact it will not even cough on starting fluid. It's got to be ignition right? No spark from the main distributor to the block so I figured it can only be the coil. I replaced the coil with the same result - nothing. I check the power lead from the battery to the coil with the key in the on position- it's hot. Seems like I must be missing something, but what? Thanks for all input. John Mc Crystal Lake, IL
  11. My 1970 Torino GT has a distributor that just will not budge. For days it's been sitting in penetrating oil will no luck. I've tried tapping on it and using a metal oil filter wrench all to no avail. This car needs new ignition points and I do not want to put them in since I cannot re-time the engine. So what do I do? Someone told me that dry ice on the distributor shaft will shrink it, anyon know about that? Should I just keep soaking it and wait? Of course the shaft casing is cast aluminum I belive and the intake manifold is iron - not a very good combination after almost 40 years! I've had some say just break it and get a new one, but I'm a purist and can't stand to destroy something if it is avoidable. Anyone have a neat trick? Thanks for all the input. John McCarthy <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Crystal Lake, IL
  12. Hi all next week I'll be heading to the Phoenix / Tuscon area and I'm looking to take in as many big junk yards as I can. Problem is I not sure where to start. I know about Desert Valley, but what happened to Black Canyon Auto Parts? Is there a good directory somewhere? Can anyone tell me where I can find the bigest yards housing antique American iron in Arizona? Thanks for any and all replies. Feel free to contact me directly as well. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
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