John_Mc

Guys I know the bolts securing the steering box to my '37 Zephyr frame are not right as the don't even tighten up against the frame, rather the bolt's head sticks out from the frame about 1/2". They have about 3/4" of thread that ends with a shoulder. They have a "Rube Goldberg" look about them and can't be correct. Anyone know what these would be for??? What is correct and where to get them?? Will any 8-grade bolt with a washer work?? Want to be correct and safe. Thanks.

Tom, I had a badly worn ground wire coming down thru the steering column. I replaced it and the horn works perfectly, all the time. Thanks!

Any help would be appreciated. I'm not totally clear on the principles but I know that the steering wheel button is supposed to ground one of the leads at the horn relay and therefore closing the circuit and sounding the horn. I have power at both sides of the relay and if I bypass the relay entirely, the horn will sound. Is my next step to check continuity between one of the leads at the relay to the horn button on the steering wheel?? Should I just run a jumper wire between the hot from the ignition switch to the one side of the relay and see if it sounds?? I'm suspicious that there is a break in the wire from the horn button to the relay. Lastly, anyone have a decent wiring diagram for this system other than the standard diagram? Thanks in advance.

Great tips guys, thanks very much.

Thanks Abe, you are exactly correct. After my original post I discovered the bottom cushion just popped out.

Anyone have a tips on installing newly acquired seat belts in my ‘37 Zephyr Sedan? First question is, I don’t see a space at the back of the seat where the belt can fit through and I sure don’t want to do any cutting if I don’t have to do so. Am I missing something here? Thanks in advance for all answers and if you have a picture of how you did yours, please post them.

I would reach out to someone in the LOC. This is a passionate group ,that really knows these great cars.

Ray & Tom, just as a follow up, I want to let you know all is well with my Zephyr. All the accessories including the heater fan, the radio (sound coming from the original 80 year-old paper speaker is amazing and the dial light comes on just as it should!), headlights/parking/dash lights and even the dome light work exactly as intended. VERY satisfying indeed and I thank you for answering all of the newbee questions!

Ray and Tom, thanks for all the input! The radio is fused as well so I feel it's pretty safe. Final results

Tom, thank God, I finally have it right!!! I find that sometimes I just need to start with a clean sheet of paper and draw the thing myself. Also, the noise is fixed.....................I kind of feel stupid but what it ended up being was a couple of fan blades (they are of different lengths, believe it or not in 1937 which I did not know and that's why I discounted the fan being the cause) were hitting the screw that holds on the water hose!!! Once re-positioned, the engine is perfect, and I should have called you to tell you, but I hate to be a constant bother. One last thing Tom, it appears that the radio capacitor is wired in series with the power lead, is that as it should be??? Thanks again for all the help.

If I want to keep it 100% stock, is my hand drawn sketch correct? The printed wiring diagram is maddening! Thanks for all the input.

Thank you Ray, so it sounds like the best way is to run it off the output post of the circuit breaker along with the headlight switch. What about the clock and heater blower, same place??

As you might have read earlier, I'm attempting to iron out my wiring issues on my 1937 Zephyr. I've studied the wiring diagram but the radio connection is not shown. Questions, 1) would the main radio power feed come from the output side of the circuit breaker, on the same post with the headlight feed, clock and horn?? 2) Where does the heater blower get its power?? It is not shown on the diagram either. Any help along these lines would be very helpful. I'm coming to the end of this part of the restoration but I've got to get this all straightened out. Thanks in advance.

Happy to write that all the wiring issues are solved, thanks for all the help from Tom above and others.

Yep, sure is. Now I have a new wallpaper!

Great shot and I did figure it out. Basically the colis were being powered around the ignition switch. Thank you for all the input

Thanks very much. Yes, someone has been there for sure. I spoke to Tom above and he is helping me as well.

Happy to write that while up in Minneapolis on Friday, I looked online and located a great guy who fixed me up in about an hour. I HIGHLY recommend him for any and all speedometer and gauge related repair. Very reasonable and super efficient!!! Chuch Kulbeth APT Instruments 9632 Humboldt Ave S Bloomington, MN 55431-2629 952-881-7095 www.gaugeguys.com

Thanks very much and you might be right, but I think my wiring is messed up at the resistance junction. Is there a diagram anywhere or can someone tell or post a picture of what this junction block should look like when wired properly??? Here's what I have now, and it can't be right.

Guys, I was able to get my newly rebuilt V-12 running and all is well except I have a wiring issue of some kind and the ignition switch on my column does not turn the car off. Now I am no electrician of any kind, but let me cover the basics of the problem. First, it's not the switch. I've done a continuity test and it works just fine. Plus I checked for power on one side and then checked for power on the other side and the switch works exactly as it should. Secondly, my right side coil is hot all the time with 6+ volts and the left coils show 3+ volts. This is whenever the battery is connected. I've even tried with the generator AND with both leads of the ignition switch disconnected and the engine still starts. I have a wiring diagram but can't seem to follow it where it will point to my issue. I'm not sure where to start here. It appears as if power is getting to the coils and bypassing the ignition switch totally. If it were your car, where would you start?? It's really unnerving not be able to turn off the car. I've choked it to stop, but how can I find the issue?? Thanks in advance.

I should explain with more detail. The cable does spin beautifully with no drag. My issue is the the collar on the outside of the cable sheathing that mates with the transmission is missing, in other words the nut that secures the cable to the transmission has nothing to grab and put a secure hold hold the cable.

No, the solder would never take the strain, BUT, I think I could try a large flat speed nut secured inside the nut just might do the trick.. Thank you for responding.

Hi, please also consider joining the LCOC, the Lincoln and Continental Owner's Club. www.lcoc.org.

The trans end nut has broken free of the cable

The transmission end of my speedo cable needs repair, any specific recommendations? Thank you in advance.