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Posts posted by John_Mc

  1. 19 hours ago, 19tom40 said:


    I will assume that your battery is fully charged and is in good condition and that you have cleaned the battery cables and posts.


    Connect your volt meter COM lead to the NEG battery post and the + lead to the starter terminal. Crank the engine with the ignition OFF. The meter should read 0.3Volts or less while cranking the engine. If the reading is higher, you have excess resistance in the circuit.


    If the reading is higher than 0.3V, move the + lead of the meter back to the starter cable side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.2V or less. If it does, replace the cable to the starter. If the reading is higher, move the + lead to the battery side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read 0.1 V or less. If it does, replace the solenoid. If it is higher, replace the cable from the battery.


    Now that you have the battery side of the circuit in good condition, you need to check the ground circuit. Connect the + lead of the meter to the POS terminal of the battery and the COM lead to a mounting bolt of the starter. Crank the engine and read the meter. It should read 0.1V or less. A higher reading means excess resistance in the grounding circuit. Move the COM lead to the point where the grounding strap is connected to the engine and repeat the test. If the reading is now 0.1V or less the starter is not grounded to the engine correctly. Remove the starter and clean the mounting surface of the starter and the oil pan and repeat the test. If the reading is still high, replace the grounding strap.

    Tom, thanks for the fantastic reply!  Last night I removed the all the connections starting at the starter relay and after reassembly the engine turns over much faster.  I’ve yet to try it when hot, but I suspect that was my trouble.  I’m going to print up your answer for future reference.  

  2. My dear ‘48 V12 had a hard starting problem when the engine was hot.  The issue was that the engine turns over far too slowly.  Because I have a new battery and good clean tight cables, I figured the starter must need to be rebuilt.  So I did that and now the engine turns over even slower than before the rebuild!  Any ideas on where to go from here? Thanks!

  3. On 12/25/2017 at 7:49 AM, TNDoug said:

    I finally figured out how to remove the door panel. There was a small roll pin behind trim plate for the vent window. Pushed it out and used reverse opening pliers to remove the push button. The spring was fine. There's been quite a few hands on this car in the past. The previous mechanic wired the switches wrong. A little adjustment on the window track and it works great. 

    I know your posting was from 4 years ago, but its exactly what I was looking for today!  Thanks!

    • Like 1
  4. 1 hour ago, 8E45E said:

    Is the Quality Car Care warranty booklet still with the car? 


    Keep in mind, Ford offered a 5 year/50,000 mile warranty in 1969, and it might show a service/warranty check until 1974 if it didn't rack up the miles beforehand.



    I searched every inch of this car and there is zero paperwork anywhere.  I even went thru some of the name on a child’s homework and still came up empty. Thanks for the thought 

  5. 1 hour ago, Walt G said:

    If there is a local newspaper in the town the dealership was in, place and ad asking for anyone who worked for the dealership that can help to contact you. Or send the editor a photo of your car and perhaps they may want to do a story on it and your quest to find its history.

    Walt, that is a GREAT idea!  I’m doing that!  Thank you.

  6. I’m looking to find out the history of my Blue ‘69 Country Squire.  Is there anyone out there from the Portland OR area who might be just have any familiarity with this wagon?  It must have been owned by a family since under the back seat were a number of kids toys and homework questions.  The car went through an auction about 3 years ago in Portland.  Any and all leads would be very much appreciated.



    • Like 4
  7. 23 hours ago, Str8-8-Dave said:

    If we are talking about stuff you can find on the tube I really like Restoration Garage on Motor Trend TV.  David Grainger is amazing, very car and restoration savvy, interesting to listen to and covers anything from putting some new trim in a Model A to ground up replication of a 1935 Bugatti Aerolithe.  He owns a real world restoration shop called The Guild of Automotive Restorers in Bradford, Ontario Canada.  He also is a farmer, has connections all over Europe, repairs antique watches and collects antique tractors and aircraft.  You can check out his day job on his website here...




    Agreed, an excellent informative, yet entertaining show.

  8. On 3/28/2021 at 4:06 PM, Matt Harwood said:

    I went through several rebuilt and NOS solenoids on my overdrive and they never worked for very long. I finally ponied up and spent the long dollar on one of the new ones and it worked quite well after that. Once those windings start to fail, there's not much that can be done.


    Have you tested yours to see if it's actually faulty? My system initially failed and I blamed the solenoid but it was actually the relay that fires the solenoid. You can test the solenoid by running 6V through it from a battery. If it pops out vigorously, it's probably OK.

    Hi, yes it’s faulty.  I’ve checked the voltage from the relay.   Over 30 mph, the OD light on the dash even illuminates.  Bench testing with over 6 volts and there is still no movement.  I dropped it off at a high quality auto electric shop today so I’ll know something soon.  Thank you for responding.

  9. On 3/26/2021 at 3:13 PM, Ray500 said:

    Give Chris a call or email at Boos Harell Lincoln parts in Ohio.  Other vendors might have one, I think it's not easily to repair with the wear on the collar and shaft.  Also Merv Atkins out in Pomona California has a wrecking yard of old Lincolns, he might have a usable shifter to replace yours. He's on the Lincoln Zephyr Owner's Club website for contact information.    A machine shop could shim the unit to tighten up the play if you can't find a usable one.  I doubt there are any NOS ones after some 80 years, and most off of other vehicles will probably be worn too.  Can't hurt to check with a reliable machine shop as to the repairs of your unit.  The other issue is the wear on the steering shaft that is a bear to remove to do a better fit with the shifter unit.  Good luck!

    Thanks Ray, I ordered a good used one from Chris on Friday along with Tywin good used arms.

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