Paul K.

Did all of the 41 Continentals have the painted faux woodgrain dash faces or were some painted a solid color or something other than the woodgrain? Thanks.

If you live near or in San Diego like me I believe it!

I need to pull the gas tank on my 41 Continental. I was underneath it today and it appears there are two bolts at the rear of the tank and one in the front that hold it in. Fuel line and gauge sender wire also need to be removed. Are there other bolts?? Thank you in advance for help.

you can use a throttle/heater cable barrel nut from a VW to "bridge" the two broken cable ends together. I have called them barrel nuts for years but there may be another name. Maybe at NAPA or for sure at any VW buggy shop.

I have a set of amber driving lights that came with my car. The have the name Dietz on them, the old lantern company I guess. were they correct for a 41?

Char, I purchased a 79 Milan over the summer and am in the same boat. No sources for parts or even responses to requests for info. What parts are you looking for? I am in San Diego, where are you. Neat cars overall, kinda funny looking from the side as they are a bit too short but a lot of fun for the dollar. Keep in touch. Paul

Thanks Bill, I do not think it is a ring either, there is no blue smoke, It acts like an intake valve as I am also getting backfire out of the carb. The valves look (from what I can see) like they have full lift and are closing fully when I compare them to the other cylinders. I was careful to oil up the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand before starting. I haven't driven the car yet because of the backfire. Your thought about the carbon sounds like a possability like the penetrating oil I squirted in the cylinder dislodged some carbon. I have never worked on a flathead before, but it looks like I cannot get to this through the intake and will have to remove the head or both. Thanks again, Paul

Well, I do not have a stuck valve like I thought in one cylinder that has so little compression it will not produce 20lbs of pressure. All other cylinders have 125psi. The valves in the suspect cylinder are both opening and closing OK when I look at them through the spark plug hole. I believe they are seating as they look like they are resting in a similar position as the good cylinders when closed. I have also gently pushed down on both valves with a screw driver while cranking the engine and feel both valves seating. Sooo... maybe I have a hole in the piston? or... a chipped valve? I put some 40wt. oil in the cylinder and cranked with no compression change. Now there is some compression and vacuum but very little felt when I put my finger over the spark plug hole while cranking. This motor was rebuilt and has few miles since the rebuild. Should I pull the intake next? What is a Ford valve pry bar? Thanks!

I have heard this mentioned many times over the years. Please explain the difference between the transmission torque converters in 64s and the 65 and 66s. Thanks

I had the same problem from a worn rocker arm on my 64 when I first bought it back in '81. I have also had good luck replacing only lifters without a cam on a few Caddy 472s. Got about 30k+ miles out of one without problems before I sold it. A running compression test before the lifter replacement and maybe 5k miles after will give you an idea if your cam is rejecting the new lifters and going south. Also, parts are not parts anymore and the guys here in San Diego at Schneider Camshafts say to use only lifters from USA. I am resealing my 425 now and installing a little hotter cam, got a set of US made Clevite lifters from NAPA for $125 after AAA discount. Good Luck.

I used a hub removal tool that screws on the axle and you then beat it with a 3 lb. or so hammer. The shock breaks the hold on the tapered axle. I got it from an antique Ford resto guy here in San Diego and it cost about $6.00. Has anyone used one of these before? It worked for me and the guy that sold it to me uses it all the time in his shop, but I felt uneasy beating on the axle. You have to check it every few blows of the hammer to keep it screwed on the axle tight so as not to damage the threads.

Are the battery cables getting hot when you try to start it? Check the cables and clean all the connections. I recently went through the same situation on my 41, the cables were about 5 years old or so and they looked and felt new. Got new 1 gauge ones from NAPA and it turned over faster and for a longer period of time. Also people on this group recommend an Optima 6v battery as it has about 800 cca. I haven't tried it yet.

How much? My radio in my 41 does not turn on but I have not checked it out yet. Might be smart for me to grab yours. Paul

BJM, Check with Tim Howley. He is active as the historian of LCOC that deals in modern post war lincoln cars. The club has an emphasis in late 50's to present day Lincoln's but I know Tim has an affection for the mid-50s Lincolns and possibly earlier. I do not have his # but he lives in Escondido, CA. You can track him down through San Diego, CA 411 directory but you might reach his son. He'll forward the message. Good Luck.

The dash on my 41 is decent for its age but compared to new it is unacceptable to me. Who restores these or as I understand from a Packard friend of mine, it may or is a multi-layer painting process done by hand. ??

Yes, The Milan Convertible would also sell the kit separately so you could modify your own car. According to my information and seeing these vehicles at Cadillac dealers back in the 70s they were authorized conversions by the factory. The title of my 79 states convertible and not sedan. Paul K.

Does anyone have any information about the company that built the Seville Milan Roadsters from 76-79? All I can find out is that they were built by the Milan Convertible Co. in Calabassas, CA (north LA) and about 500 were made during these years. Does anybody on this forum own one? Thanks, Paul, San Diego, CA

That's it! It has been two months since I took the brakes apart an I thought the adapters went on the front cylinders. I'll switch them around. Thanks, Paul

Thanks for the input, do you think that is possible on BOTH lines? They came apart easily, and they are going in the same amount of distance as before by looking at the threads remaining exposed. I am familiar with newer type cylinders that are not as deep at the line fitting, but not these. To clarify, are you saying that maybe the last time someone attached the line to the cylinder it was tightened to the point the line was damaged or flattened so the next time it was taken apart (by me) it will not seat fully in the wheel cylinder? Thanks again. Paul

I am installing the rear wheel cylinders on my 41 Continental after them profesionally rebuilt. My problem is that the brake lines when screwed in as far as they will go leaves the line still loose. When I tug on the line they slide in and out a little. These are the same cylinders and lines, no parts were changed and the threads on the cylinders are good. Thanks in advance, Paul, San Diego

I am getting closer to getting this 41 on the road but it appears I have a valve stuck open (or hole in a piston) in the # 1 left bank cylinder. Compression is zero psi. Compression is 105 psi in the # 3 right bank cylinder. All other cylinders are 120-130 psi dry. I can live with the 105 psi hole. I have never worked on a flathead before but it looks like I can get to the valve and spring if I remove the intake manifold. Any remedies from the experienced on the forum? Thanks,

Thanks Phil. I replaced the cables with the same type on the car that were #1 gauge. My digital camera took a dump but I will post some pics next week.

The cables were the culprit, although they looked new and had no hard spots and no corrosion, there was internal resistance. I replaced them with the same cables from NAPA. The guy at the counter looked at the old cables and said I was wasting my money as the old ones looked fine. The engine turns over as good as a 6v can.

I know this has been talked about here but I cannot find anything in a search. Problem: Engine cranks slowly then stops cranking after 3 to 5 seconds. New 6 v NAPA battery, The starter and cables were getting hot, had the starter rebuilt, cranks same but only the POS and NEG cables are getting hot. but not the the SOLENOID to STARTER cable. I have cleaned all the connections including the ground strap from the engine. All the cables are "newer looking" and are 1 gauge size. I have to dig up my voltmeter to do a proper voltage drop, and have purchased new cables because even if they look new maybe they are not good, but I think they are. Also the solenoid is not tripping or needing to be reset and it looks newer like the cables. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks in advance !

I need fuel pump and carb rebuild kits for my 41 Continental. Would Marv have them?