Paul K.

A previous posts on our forum said these condensers would work for our V-12s. This is for a '48 Ford, doesn;t say V8 or 6, but it is a Super Deluxe model. Is this the same as a #1GA12300? I have a '41 LC. NAPA link below. Thanks, Store Locator | NAPA Online

A place called Broadway Titles advertises in Old Cars Weekly every week. Check them out. broadwaytitles.com

Madera Concepts in Goleta CA. They are authorized to do warranty repairs for Jaguar, Mercedes, Rolls-Royce and Bentley. I toured their facility last year with the Rolls-Royce and Bentley Club and they have been doing great work for almost 3o years. They will make or match anything. Not the cheapest, but the best. True craftsman. Paul K. '64 Riviera '78 Bentley T2 '63 Studebaker Avanti '41 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet

If you are looking for that kind of car that you will not see another next to you at the same show, this is it. Neat idea, fun to drive, easy on gas, On ebay now. You may contact me via forums PM or by phone at 858-259-7555. Thanks, Paul http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3841.m39.l1313&_nkw=milan+roadster&_sacat=

Is this person Keith selling his repro knobs for 41s? I have sent him a couple of PMs over the last few months with no reply. Are there other sources for new dash knobs?

Maybe it is just me, but I have found that when the original drum brakes are in good working order (adjusted and with the correct lining material), they brake as good or sometimes better than than original style GM disc brakes found on later models. If the conversions talked about here are about oversize after-market or custom 4-wheel disc conversions I cannot comment on those, --- but,--- I have owned my '64 since 1981 when I was 16 and back then I drove like most sixteen year olds do - fast acceleration and hard braking. I always had my Riv up to 100+ mph on I-95 between Alexandria, VA and Washington D.C. on a Friday night. My brother had a '70 Cutlass with 4-wheel drum brakes and those brakes would moan and fade badly when trying to stop from high speeds. When I turned 18, I had a '69 Cadillac convertible that had front disc brakes. I still had the Riv and would compare both cars. The Cad did not brake as well as the Riv. The Cad is a heavier car but should have braked as well as the Riv since it had discs, I thought. I am not doubting the advantages of disc over drum brakes. Discs are better overall. However, I have been told by automotive mentors of mine that back in the day, Buick was known for big and good brakes compared to other makes and GM divisions. Our first generation Rivieras (and I think second too) had big finned alluminum drums to dissipate the heat much better than cast-iron drums. I have never had a problem with mine or see the need to convert. On every brake job that I have done over the years, I have used quality parts and adjusted the brakes properly. Today, asbestos is not available for brake linings over the counter. I think this is part of the problem with many people thinking that drum brakes are no good. The aftermarket linings are junk and will give you a hard pedal because you have to put extra pedal effort to stop the car. If you take your linings to a brake rebuilder/relining shop (trucks, etc.) they can put the "good stuff" on your old shoes and your Riv drums will stop very well as designed. Also, make sure your front suspension is tight and aligned. This is a major culprit of pulling to one side when braking and is often blamed on drum brakes.

I assume the idle gets a lot rougher or "lopey" with a 3/4 grind race cam and you will have to bump up the idle rpm. Anyone installed a hotter cam and have feedback on this?

Go with Hagerty or one of the other specialists for antiques. I have my daily driver with AAA and my classics with Hagerty. There is no "one size fits all" when it comes to insurance.

Penetrating oil may take a few days to do its job. Take the advice from the forum and use GOOD penetrating oil. I have yet to try a product called KROIL but everyone swears by it. Readily available and very good is PB Blaster. WD 40 is OK for lightweight household items only. BE PATIENT. It will pay off in the end with few or no broken studs.

Doesn't make sense. There would be SOME wear to the points, leading to future point adjustment and replacement. No maintenance is the biggest benefit of electronic ignition. Pertronix makes a trigger unit that is hidden inside the distributor so everything looks original. Interested in hearing more on this if I am way off base.

Thanks for those specs. They will help a lot.

I have been told the same/close @202 degrees. Thanks.

What is a reasonable price? I have a complete engine minus accessories that came with my '41.

Any suggestions for engine gasket vendors for 425 nailhead? Thanks.

Does anyone have the stock camshaft specifications for lift and duration on a 64 425? Thanks.

Hi 48 Lincoln, I have a 79 Seville, that I just went through to get started. I own a '41 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet and live in CA. We are practically family! I have the 77 Cadillac Shop manual and can send you copies if you need. Only the original Cadillac Shop Manual and Mitchell On Demand repair database have the corret info.

Thanks, this is a great help. I'll discuss this with my friend and Jake too. Hope to be driving this week.

Thanks Phil, and I apologize and am quite embarrased that I have not joined LZOC as yet. I am already a member of three other car clubs, other memberships have expired for other makes I own, so joining another club was not a priority. But now it is. My questions remind me of the wealth of information available from club members. As good as the internet has been to all of us, one of the casualties in some clubs is the ability to post messages on forums without being a member.This may prevent people from joining because they are already getting the club benefit they need. I think I have done that without noticing that clubs need support. I am a member of the Rolls-Royce Owners' club and you have to be a paid member to contribute to their forum. Visitors are welcome and free. I used to be a member of LCOC when I was into the 60s slab sides and agree that LZOC is the place. Will join asap and hope any others on this forum do the same. The magazine alone is worth the cost.

How is everyone adjusting timing and dwell? I have an earlier Technicial Service Bulletin manual from 1938-1940, I also have access to a distributor machine and a friend that knows how to use it. What about in the car adjustments. Do I need the "special cap" to install on the distributor mentioned in technical service bulletin OPR.12127-M page 64. April 15, 1938? Would a 6 volt timing light suffice? Very different design on these cars. Thanks!

I was wondering in there is anyone on this forum who owns a Lincoln V-12 and lives close to San Diego? I have finally got my 41 running, however I have never driven one of these cars nor do I know what they are supposed to sound like, feel like, or drive . Just seeing a good running and driving V-12 in person, revving it up and even drive it a few blocks would answer a lot of questions for me.

A new Optima battery took care of my slow cranking. Still not great but but similar to other 6 volt cars. I would never buy another NAPA battery. This is the second or third time I have experienced them lasting only 2 years.

Trying a different battery today. All of those items mentioned have been addressed. Thanks!

I used Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to release the wood from the metal backing some years ago. Everything else I tried including lacquer thinner was weak. Warning: be careful, wear gloves, and a respirator when working with MEK. It is dangerous, but isn't everything that works? I used to see it at Home Depot.

Yes. The engine was fully warmed up, and barely any valve clatter. The battery is fully charged, and has been slow charged for days, I have a charger on the car when cranking, rebuilt starter, connections cleaned, cranks better with the plugs out but still not as good 2 years ago when the battery was brand new. I think the battery has just gotten sulfated from sitting and cannot create enough power. I am considering a stronger battery that is the same size, there are a few good comments in previous discussions about the Optima battery. Any comments on putting in an 8 volt?

My '41 is experiencing slow cranking... again. When I first purchased the car 2.5 years ago, I went through this. The car had sat for about 5 years, so I installed a new battery. I replaced it with what was in the car, a NAPA 7024 Commercial 6 volt. Although the cables looked new, I replaced them with #1 gauge. I cleaned all the connections including the ground strap. I had the starter professionally rebuilt. I have never driven the car, and have worked on the car about once every six months. This has alowed the battery to sit for months with inactivity. The battery was charged and the engine was cranking fine six months ago. Fast forward to today: the same battery holds a charge, I cleaned all of the battery and cable connections, and the engine will get a few revolutions of cranking and then stops. Then after a few more tries, the engine will not crank at all, only the solenoid clicks and an effort from the starter to turn like the battery is dead. There is a slight and I mean slight bit heat from the solenoid to starter cable but nothing like the heat generated from the cables that originally came with the car. I hooked a volt meter to the battery cables during cranking to load test and the voltage drops to 4.7 volts during the cranking efforts. I am suspecting the battery has become sulfated enough to get weak and not handle a load. Even when things were working "good", it was not great compared to 12 volt systems. My questions: What is the failing load test voltage on a 6 volt battery? Is it half of a 12 volt system? Those are 80% of 12 volts which is 9.6 volts? This would mean a 6 volt failing mark is 4.8 volts. If so, I guess I just need a new battery but I want to get something better if it is available. Any suggestions to fit the original battery tray or proven modifications to offer better cranking ? Anyone using those Optima or gel batteries, 8 volt batteries, etc? Thank you!