TexRiv_63

Some Cadillacs mounted the coil in the top tank, it would be a V8 model with a single coil.

Pat, I've done quite a few over the years and have had my share of screwups. In my opinion the worst to work on are later GM Quadrajets, they all leak internally even when you seal up the well plugs and they almost never work 100% unless they are new. The 4GC is a pretty good carb because of the cast iron base plate and its construction is fairly simple. One trick I learned, always take the carb apart and put it back together the same day if possible so you remember where everything goes. I also always try to have a shop manual to refer to in addition to that little hard to read instruction sheet that comes with the rebuild kit!

I checked around regarding having my carburetor rebuilt but found the cost ranged from $275 to $450, which included "cosmetic" restoration. That was way more than I wanted to spend and did not need the cosmetic part so I decided I would at least try doing it myself first. Like everything else I do it took longer than I expected. Since the carb was coming off I originally planned to combine that with replacing my heater control valve and also clean and repaint the top of the engine. I put plastic down over the garage floor and totally covered the car. I pulled off the carb, it appeared to be leaking from the front where the air horn met the carb body. I had also started to notice a worsening bog when I hit the gas, especially when cold. I took it apart and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and air pressure but it was actually quite clean inside. I reassembled everything with new gaskets and checked all the adjustments, the float levels were a bit off, especially on the secondary side. I changed out the heater valve and was lucky that nothing was rusted too bad, the bolts came out clean. Right then life got in the way and I had to cancel the repainting and wrap things up, put the carb on and started it up AND IT STILL LEAKED! I was pissed and had to park it until this week. When I got back to it I noticed that it was leaking from the fuel inlet fitting, the one thing I HAD NOT removed from the carb. I pulled it off, replaced the gasket and put it back but it still leaked. I pulled it again, applied Permatex High-Tack to all the threads, and that finally did it, leak free. Wrapped it up today and readjusted the idle then took it for a ride, what a difference! It now idles smoother and slower and it positively JUMPS when you hit the pedal, I think I must have had an accelerator pump issue since I got it. This was also the first time driving it with the the new steering rag joint, it handles much better with no wander or play in the wheel. This car is now a real pleasure to drive and I will be using it much more than I have in the past. Both of these repairs cost me a total of less than $50.00 out of pocket and I must say they are very high on the bang-for-the-buck scale, wish I would have done them sooner.

I just added a little more value to this car today, it had a patched up muffler on the passenger side which gave up the ghost so I had the whole passenger side exhaust system replaced. As a bonus, when the muffler shop pulled the old exhaust pipe they found the heat riser valve was rusted shut, my efforts to free it up before did not work. They eliminated the valve and now the car runs great, quiet, smooth, and the idle is better. I took it for a long ride back from the shop and that was money well spent. My price is still $12,900.

I just added a little more value to this car today, it had a patched up muffler on the passenger side which gave up the ghost so I had the whole passenger side exhaust system replaced. As a bonus, when the muffler shop pulled the old exhaust pipe they found the heat riser valve was rusted shut, my efforts to free it up before did not work. They eliminated the valve and now the car runs great, quiet, smooth, and the idle is better. I took it for a long ride back from the shop and that was money well spent. My price is still $12,900.

Magnificent!

You are correct, Buick did not offer a power passenger seat in 1963 Riv. The drivers seat controls were in the door armrest if the car had the deluxe interior option but I think they were mounted on the seat if the car had the base interior.

Thanks to all that responded. Bill, it is interesting you have the same problem, I have never seen this with any other tire. I'll try contacting Discount Tire where I bought them and see if they know anything about it. Till then I'll keep cleaning!

I've got something weird going on with the front tires on my 63 Olds. They are developing some kind of chalky white coating, these are two new BFG radial T/A's that I bought to match two older T/A's I already had. When I put the tires on the car I cleaned them all up and put some armor-all on them, since then only the two newer tires developed the coating, the older ones look fine. I wiped this coating off with rag once already about a month ago and it has come back as you see in the pictures. Has anyone else had this problem and does anyone know what causes it / how to stop it?

Not sure if I understand your question but looking at your first pic you appear to be missing the drive cable that goes between the motor and the drive nut. If you look at your last pic from the web that is the piece that looks like a speedometer cable, nothing will work without it. You need a 62 shop manual which will have pictures that shouls answer any other questions. I just cleaned up my 63 seat mechanism but it is a 4-way tilt, here are some pics, I assume the back and forth mechanism would be similar to yours. Good luck.

BTT - the price has been reduced to $12,900.

I have reduced my asking price on this car to $12,900, see my posts in Buy / Sell forum.

BTT - I am motivated to sell and have reduced my asking price to $12,900.

Update - watched the second episode this week. Still labeled as 1960, it begins with the same incorrect Lincoln, Thunderbird, and Ford cop car, but then like magic almost every other car shown was correct vintage! And they showed quite a few cars, including a painful crash with, I think, a 1960 Pontiac. Almost like someone was told to get their act together...

Not sure of your situation but it sounds like this car or the brake situation is new to you. In my experience the brake system is the most neglected part of any old car. You can buy a car that looks great and runs great where it is obvious that the car was maintained well but the first thing that goes wrong has to do with the brakes. For something so directly connected to saving your life when you drive it amazes me that so many cars have brake systems that are one step from total failure! OK, rant over - I agree with the previous posters that the power drum system on your Cadillac will do just fine if it is good condition and properly adjusted. The first thing you need to do is a total inspection, all wheels off the ground, drums off, check linings, make sure there are no broken springs or missing hold-downs, check master and wheel cylinders for leaks, check for grease leaks from wheel bearings, inspect all hard lines and rubber hoses for leaks, cracks, or rust. If everything look great, replace the drums and adjust as mentioned above. If they are still mushy flush out all the old fluid, replace with new and bleed. Even if the adjustment fixes the problem you should still flush and bleed as cheap insurance. Unfortunately almost every old car I have ever owned has needed major brake work. Don't skimp - better safe than sorry. Good luck!

That dark color is usually a tipoff the gas is bad. If its ethanol mix gas and older than 6 months it is bad. Better safe than sorry, drain and replace before running the car.

You need to search the forum, I know there have been previous posts about this engine.

The Ebay listing was taken down so this car has apparently sold - I hope it went to a BCA member and not a hot rodder...

Very true, the fact we even know what 1960 cars should look like also shows our age. Just another symptom of Old Car Disease!

They put a title in at the beginning saying 1960. Dennis Quaid's character is based on the real sheriff who got the job in that year.

I just watched the pilot episode of this show which was supposed to take place in 1960. Naturally I'm interested in watching period cars - they had a lot of nice ones, unfortunately ONLY ONE was built in 1960 or earlier! I saw a 61 or 62 Lincoln, 62 Thunderbird, 62 Cadillac, 64 Pontiac, and a few 62 and 63 Ford police cars...the only correct car I saw was a 56 or 57 Buick. I know you see this sort of thing all the time in period movies and TV shows but I don't think I've ever seen one that was this totally wrong. Part of why it got me was that so many of the 1960 cars were so unique and totally different from the later cars they used. My wife just laughed at me but I had to vent somewhere!

I saw this car on Ebay, it is at a Dallas, Texas dealer and I went to look at it today. Nice looking solid original car, paint may not be original. 80,000 miles, sidemounts, new tires, original interior with redone seats. Runs and drives but carb was leaking when I saw it. Roof insert is cracked and probably needs to be replaced. Bid is at 15,000 with reserve not met, not sure what they really want for it. This dealer knows little about prewar cars. If I didn't already have two cars I may have gone after it! Here is the link, the pictures are very accurate. Buick : Other Series 50 in Buick | eBay Motors

Thanks John. I did not see the writeup on Sandy's model 90 but I saw it on this forum and wished I could have afforded it when he he put it up for sale. I saw this model 57 also on Ebay and it is being sold by a local Dallas dealer so I went to see it today. It is a very nice original car that seemed very complete but they are looking for more than I would be willing to spend. Here is the link to the listing if anyone else is interested: Buick : Other Series 50 in Buick | eBay Motors

I may be going to look at a 1933 Buick Model 57 Sedan today, a nice looking mostly original car. Are there any common trouble spots or problems with this model I should look for? Its at a dealer so I have a hunch the price will be ridiculous but I have always liked the styling of the 33. I would appreciate any words of wisdom!

BTT - Matt, thanks for the kind words. I do enjoy driving this car, it gets almost as much attention as my 32 Cadillac did as it is something you NEVER see on the road. I'm continuing to ask $14,000 because I think it is a fair price but I am always open to reasonable discussion or possible interesting trades for good driver cars. Here are a few more photos showing some details: