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Everything posted by Franklin31
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Running a Franklin on a Flexible Exhaust Hose
Franklin31 replied to MikeDeFelice's topic in Franklin
URL:>>>> http://forums.aaca.org/f230/franklin-speedster-build-352341.html -
just found that Master-Carr has the bumper bolt split washers listed under 316 SS within .005 of the original size: 0.5625ID-0.968OD; will have order the 25 min.; let me know if you want any @ my unit cost {you will not find these at the hdwr. store } >> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=q82gyn
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Bolt dimensions & thread on my 1931 (151) Vic is the same as above. The 4 on back (bumperetts) are with stainless caps; the 2 on the front have a head that is more domed and appears that is a chrome plated bolt w/o the stainless cap(have not taken the front ones off yet). Photo is of one of the rears; the dark nut is original; the bright nut is a pal nut; reg. nuts are too thick; the lock washer is orig. and these narrow ones are hard to find--haven't located yet. Slot in end of bolt made with Dremel tool for screwdriver.
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I have all 4 out of the rear of my 151, will measure and see & advise if it is the same. Note: use a Dremel with the thicker cut disk( about 1/16") to cut a screwdriver slot in the bottom of the bolt; keeps bolt from turning and keeps from using vice-grips on the stainless head cap; Still had to use acetylene torch and on one I still had to Dremel-off the Nut; even pal nuts are hard to find in NF threads--NC are easy to find; takes a thinner nut. Later~~
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You might have meant this 49606: http://www.franklincar.org/tech/drawings/Master%20Drawings/49606%20BUMPER%20BAR%20BOLT.PDF
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Running a Franklin on a Flexible Exhaust Hose
Franklin31 replied to MikeDeFelice's topic in Franklin
May interest those building garage or pouring floor, etc.: Shorter exhaust flex system. Installed 2.5" exhausts to outside when building garage; loops under foundation wall; cover pipes outside with mesh.Photo on left shows the 2 plugs in floor. Photo on rt. shows plugs, plug tool, and spare connector pipe {could not immediately locate the correct ones made up} nipple is missing on spare. Anyway, flex connector pipe is extremely short; might give someone an idea. -
Running a Franklin on a Flexible Exhaust Hose
Franklin31 replied to MikeDeFelice's topic in Franklin
clicked on one 2.5 & 11 from Summit and they say it will stand 600 degrees. Are you saying the hose is collapsing. -
http://www.franklincar.org/
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Merry Christmas, Dick; haven't got the steering thing yet so don't 'break the dies' !! AND, Packard guys drive in SALT !!! At least the car above looks like it has Packard hubcaps.
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remove the round cap then turn the screw clockwise as I remember. then look at the gage to see what you did
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Have found a stash of key blanks " STAR TA3 ". I have the original ignition switch/coil in my 151 and that is the key it has. The photos below show both sides of the 'new' blanks. The cut key is the original in my Franklin. You can see the wording on the keys. This blank also fits in my door. Check your key--If you need an extra key or needing a key cut to fit tumbler, look at this key. Cost $9.00, free shipping lower 48. Send PM.
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just published Nov 15th: http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/11/15/franklin-auto-museum-is-tucson-treat/?intcmp=features There is a video here.
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Stamped numbers on body: '31-- 151 Vic. Brougham
Franklin31 replied to Franklin31's topic in Franklin
the Body factory -
1925 Sport Runabout to be auctioned Nov 7-9th Greensboro NC
Franklin31 replied to Franklin31's topic in Franklin
Sold for $19,000. Saturday. -
Curious about the numbers stamped on the body of my car. Can find no reference in tech section of website and don't remember seeing in ACN{but I am getting older}. The number " 254 " is stamped on the upper firewall, passenger side, next to outer top curve. Also found that same number stamped in the wood on top of both doors; these numbers are approx. 5/16" tall. The numbers on the door tops are about 6" in from the latch side. History of these numbers in mfg. process?? Richard EDIT: Walker Body stamps !
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one on eBay now--but not perfect>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Franklin-Steering-Wheel-Wood-Rimmed-Rat-Rod-K-/171129675692?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d81f9fac&vxp=mtr
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1925 Sport Runabout to be auctioned Nov 7-9th Greensboro NC
Franklin31 replied to Franklin31's topic in Franklin
Tks for clarification, Ak. Just copying and pasting what they had listed; didn't look at it even tho it will be only 15 miles from me; can't bid !!! Certainly not a convertible~~ -
How do you change polarity on the socket in a taillight, a smoky situation at best. Very difficult to remove the epoxy material that holds the LED light in a 1156/1157 base and redo it. Would not work in my pos. ground car. POINT WAS: be careful to advise the dealer that they are for positive ground, I didn't. Steve,you are correct: If they are made that way, they will work. All I have ever seen on the internet are generic and if they don't say~~guess how they are assembled: neg. ground ! Never seen one advertised for positive ground. The freight to return to dealer is more than they cost so you have to eat them or use on a neg. ground car. I wound up using 'hot rod' bright bulbs-basically double wattage on tail & brake; they are brighter. Also, I cement bright alum foil to the inside housings of almost all antique cars I have. Also, I use 1-1.5" magnetic tape across complete bumper with red/white alternating reflecting tape stuck on that when I am running at night; visible for about 1/2 mile !!! EDIT: Here is a place that has 10 watt 6 volt Positive Ground LED lights; know nothing about them, or if the base will fit {expensive} Scroll down some to that listing. But they could be someone to talk to>>>> http://classicautobulbs.com/6volt.html
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May be interested in this Franklin being auctioned in Greensboro NC. It is not mine and I know nothing about it. Here is website and info>>> http://www.gaaclassiccars.com/index.php/auction-listings/62-1925-franklin-series-11-sport-runabout
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I tried them on my Austin Healey {for taillite/brake lights} and they WILL NOT work with positive ground !!! Unless you get special ones and have a written guarantee{not sure they exist}; have some new #1157 that I will sell cheap.
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I am looking for also--know the thread is old, anyway, the problem I have found is that these old cars take undercut screws; hdwr store screws are around 80-82 degrees and that will push the head of the screws above the surface. If you take your screw to a hardware store and compare then you will see the difference. Even garnish rails (armrest) screws are like that. Not sure exactly what the correct angle is, but that is the biggest problem I have encountered. Will check the links above.
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My top is Long Grain Cobra Vinyl like you get from Haartz, etc. Original rubber top material would be rare indeed. edit: Today {10/23} I sprayed top with Dupli-Color Gloss Black Vinyl aerosol; absolutely beautiful--this is the way to go. Looks brand new. Get 2 rolls of the 1-mil plastic-10'x20' at Lowes--about $3.50/ea to go all around car. Note: that I did not put the top on otherwise it would have better padding !! Photo on top shows sprayed top; wish I had taken a 'before'.
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I am going to use SEM 15233 Gloss Black aerosol made for vinyl on my excellent but faded and stained long-grain top. Tough and can even change colors with it--surely there has been technical formulation advancement in the last 30 years with vinyl paint !!! Type into google if you are curious about it. MIGHT USE # 15243 that is Satin Black--more than likely since gloss is too gloss for this application. Edit: might want to also consider SEM 77723 XXX Adhesive Promoter undercoat.-- upholsterysupplyonline.com has both.
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Getting around to cleaning up the rear and have a question: Have an original Franklin trunk, drwg 52869, on my '31 Victoria. I see no means to connect the trunk to the car either on the car, on the drawing, or on the trunk. Is the trunk not supposed to be anchored to the car. Of course I will put a bolt thru the bottom of the trunk and secure it to the oak flooring. Don't want someone to walk off with it or lose it if I go around a curve too fast-lol. Just curious what was original ? TKS~~ Richard EDIT: Knew the board pattern wasn't symmetrical, but didn't remember that the oak wasn't correct>>>ASH; but the Phillips head screws; must have been asleep !!! will at least change the Phillips to slot; and folks the drawing shows 4 screws in the corners to anchor the trunk to the platform that I also overlooked. Must learn to look closer before posting.