oldiron
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I am interested in the fan, the arm that supports it, and it's mounting hardware. Could you email me diameter of fan blade ring, and your tele number or email address. Regards; Jerry Janson cell; 201-259-3308 email; cement14@msn.com
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So; when you say you like using evaporust as a coolant to really get things clean, do you mean straight "evaporust" into the cooling system ? Regards; Jerry Janson
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Philipj; there is a very nice '36 Century coupe listed in Hemmings. It is dual side mounted, and with a rumble seat. I had the pleasure of riding in it this past summer. It runs very well. An older restoration that has been well kept and loved. Take a look , like the man says 'what have you got to lose.'. good luck with your search. regards; Jerry Janson
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Thankyou Larry
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See Cadillac forum below
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1913 Cadillac Side Lights for sale; Complete including original curved lenses, and all internal reflectors. Internals probably just need polishing. Exteriors need polishing, and there are some minor dents as noted in pictures. These have been hanging on the barn wall since prior to 1940. I partially cleaned one up to show it's condition. $200.00 the pair, plus shipping. Call Jerry Janson cell; 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com
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1913 Cadillac Parts and price book and supplement. Very good condition. Both books are complete. $200.00 plus postage for the pair. Jerry Janson (201) 259 3308
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John; While I do not have body parts, I do have two complete 1913 side lights, a 1913 illustrated parts and price book, also the illustrated supplement to the parts and price book, also have new/unused set of intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, two cast iron heads with brass valve stem cages and valves, and what I believe is the drive gear for the air compressor, also have about eight foot length of new riveted type fan belt as used on early cad's. If interested call Jerry Janson 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com Regards;
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Also been there with the loose and clicking spokes on my 1913 Cadillac. The car weighs in at about 4,000 lbs. The front wheels are dished, so you not only have radial, but lateral, and angular loads at work when in motion. The rear wheels are your drive wheels, absorbing all the torque from the motor when you let out that big cone clutch, but also all the load from the rear wheel brakes when stopping. So while quick poly might sound good and even stop the clicking, just as shims help short term, they are solutions that are short term at best. The real solution for a 'heavy' car is to ride on new wheels. Calimers Wheel Shop has been doing this for over 40 years. (I've used them and recommend them highly). I believe Coker has also set up a wheel rebuilding shop in the past couple of years. Talk to them both. Regards; Jerry Janson
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Distributor cap,(two), both used, good condition with bakelite thumb nuts..... $100.00 each (Sold)
Rotor, used, good condition.............................................................................$100.00
Heads, Two, good condition, with valves, springs, brass valve stem cages....$750.00 each
Manzel Compressor, mounts on waterpump, turns/good compression............$250.00[attachment
Also without pictures, are a set of Gray and Davis Side lights, (Complete and very good condition, but need cleaning.), a Gray and Davis Head-lite and rim in fair condition, drive gear for compressor, Bowen greasecups, Wheel-lug with swagged nut, collection of crush rings, manifold gaskets, and assorted gaskets for same.
Call Jerry Janson 201-259-3308 or email cement14@msn.com
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Wanted; 1924 model R flywheel or flywheel ring gear. Or if there is enough demand, I will have ring gear made. Comments? Also need rear end for same. contact Jerry Janson cell 201-259-3308 email cement14@msn.com
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Bob, my book covers up only to frame #760. You need frame #922 as you indicated. I would try the AACA library or the RR owners club. Also, before removing your generator, try removing the black band cover on the right side. It should give you access to the brushes, and the commutator. At this point you should be able to lift the brushes and clean the commutator with a fine sand paper. I just did this to a delco starter generator on an early Cadillac. It had not been charging so I cleaned the commutator and it is again charging properly. Good luck and regards; Jerry Janson
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Bob; I have a Wells Auto Electrician's handbook with many different electrical schematics of Westinghouse generators and voltage regulators for cars up to 1922. There are no 'exploded' view though. So if this could help, let me know the year and model you are looking for. Regards; Jerry Janson
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ricosan; if I'm reading the comments correctly, you still have not found your problem. There is one sure way perhaps, and that would be with a vibration meter. A vibration meter normally reads the harmonic output from an attached sensor; i.e. the sensor being fixed,(strapped), to a bearing housing so that it may read the harmonic frequency of that bearing when it is in motion. (A deteriorating bearing or bent or otherwise misaligned shaft, putting uneven loads on the bearing would allow for a higher harmonic frequency reading than normal, thus indicating the problem area.). This could be done at all bearing points to determine the source of your vibration, One such manufacturer of a portable vibration meter that is also reasonably priced and should lend itself to aiding you in this endeavor is Balmac, of Plain City, Ohio. ( balmacinc.com or tel 614-873-8222) again, good luck; Jerry Janson
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Pinion bearing ! ! ! Check your pinion bearing/bearings......... regards; Jerry Janson
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Jeff, I restored two of these carb's years ago and found them to be very reliable. The problem could be nothing that you have done, or that you are aware of anyway. Perhaps one of the reed valves is sticking, and staying closed, even though it was cleaned. Yes, as you mentioned, each reed is of a different thickness or tension requirement and requires more suction to open it as the engine speeds up; i.e the reeds allowing air to be drawn into the carb. as they open.). Thus if the reeds are not opening enough the engine would run rich. Also, as you are aware, there is no choke on this carburetor. When starting the engine in cold weather, an injector allows raw gas into the intake manifold for starting. (This injector is basically a spring loaded needle valve that when pulled back from it's seat, allows raw gas to flow into the intake manifold for easier starting. It sits on top of the intake manifold.). It could be that this injector is not seating properly and is thus allowing gas into the manifold while the engine is running. Hope this helps; regards; Jerry Janson
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Charlie; have you tried Dick Shappy at www.classiccars.ws/sales ? There's just a ton of stuff for '13's at his Rhode Island facility. Good Luck & regards; Jerry Janson
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It appears that you have an almost complete 1912/1913 Cadillac cylinder assembly with head. The head looks to be lacking the plugs for the valves. Regards; Jerry Janson BTW, what price are you thinking?
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kfane; although your picture doesn't offer much identifying detail, there is one standout feature that someone should recognise; i.e. and that feature is on the front right fender. When enlarged, the front right fender appears to have a raised center cross-section. It is very noticeable, and very unique. I believe the late teens or early twenties Dodge had a front fender with a similarly unique raised section, but I can't be sure this is it. Perhaps a Dodge fan could elaborate. regards; Jerry Janson, North Carolina.
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Hey Eldvert; Your air compressor looks to be very familar to me. Dimensons aside,it is very similar to the ones mounted on some Pierce Arrows. I restored a 1927 P.A. Series 36 with an almost identical compressor to the one pictured. It mounts on the drivers side of the transmission, and the long shaft with slotted end extending from the casting runs through the floorboard. It is actuated,(gear engaged), by turning the slotted head with a screwdriver. You might want to list it with the Classic Cars and with the Pierce Arrows. Regards ; oldiron
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Chris; First, regards to the clutch brake. It doesn't have to stop the clutch, but rather slow it down. Secondly, did you check the weight of the transmission oil ? You'll probably need at least a 140 weight gear oil, or something with a viscosity equal to a 140....... you see, a heavy oil also slows down the gears when the clutch is disengaged; i.e. thus facilitating a shift without grinding gears. I would try these two avenues before tearing things apart. Also,is the restorer still around who did the car? Maybe he can tell you what he did, and/or what to do. Regards; Jerry Janson
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Todd; goggle "model t haven" and check out their pre war cars for sale. They did have a couple of model 10 chassis, engines, and running gear parts for sale. Good luck and regards; Jerry Janson
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i am looking for ac 78s plugs please call me at 516-279-6170 thank you
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Leif; you have a good eye. Your right about the front axle. Only the model 10 appears to have the dropped center. The others are straight both on the F and the 14.... regards; jerry janson
for sale 1986 Chrysler 5th Ave. edition 12K miles
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
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