Classic50s

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Everything posted by Classic50s

  1. I have a fully rebuilt 1959 Buick 364 nailhead with all the adapters and a rebuilt SP400 transmission. The motor was completely rebuilt, block magnafluxed, all parts new or rebuilt. Bored 60 over, stock 1959-60 401 cam for better breathing, stiffer springs to safely rev to 5500 without valve float, 4 barrel with 1959 401 Rochester 4GC carb (still has the pedal start switch on carb). Motor is broken in and ready to go. Ignition system has 40,000 coil and iridium plugs. All reciepts asking $5,000 for motor and transmission (can also throw in a th400 universal shifter linkage kit, AC and power steering components, recored radiator, and a rebuilt 59 Buick rear end bolted to a 61 3rd member for a open driveline, and the driveshaft to go with it). pictures availabe upon request (as well as pictures of the other items). Located in Central City, Nebraska.
  2. Has anyone used Evans Cool in their vintage car or truck? I saw Jay Lenos youtube page and he had a video about Evans Cool. I became interested because nailheads run hot and to be able to never worry about cooling problems again has me thinking. Cost is about $35 (give or take) per gallon, but you never have to worry about overheating, corrosion, or freezing water in your engine. Whats your all take on this modern coolant for our vintage cars? EDIT: Here is the link to the video
  3. Time to pull out the battery cables. I thought after having the heads rebuilt you need to retorque the bolts after getting the engine to operating temp.
  4. I had my 364 rebuilt for my 59 LeSabre and got it ready to fire on the stand so I can retorque the head bolts. I made a lead from the pos. terminal on the battery to a ballast resistor to the pos on the coil then from the coil to the distributor. I then used jumper cables from the battery to the main starter terminal and the positive terminal to crank it over. I couldn't get the starter to crank over fast enough to get the engine to fire. I used the small 12V from my 56 Chevy which it cranks over fine (worn out 265). My 364 is running the 10.5/1 compression pistons though. Do I have the basic idea right with the wiring, and just use battery cables and a bigger battery, or do I have the basics wrong? The motor was dynoed and ran great so I know she runs. Thank You
  5. oh. Many good ideas and cars came from the independents. I wish I had that subject in high school. I would have made a 3 hour speech out of it :cool:
  6. The 55 Special used the 264 and 59 LeSabre only used the 364. It would be better to swap the motor and trans from the 55 for a 364/dynaflow set up. Parts are easier to find, more power, and the 264 has some differences that made them slightly more problematic. It would be easier then finding a 55-56 dynaflow in Britain. The 364 and dynaflow was used from 57-61 (59-61 LeSabre only). Buick kept the torque tube through to 1960. I am not sure about torque tube, transmission, mounting differences from 55 to 59 though.
  7. What about good ole' Buick? Oldest surviving auto company in the US, saved GM from going under several times, one of the only luxury brands to make it to 3rd place in sales, last surviving middle priced American car brand, first US brand to use OHV as standard (i think), turn signals, child safety latching doors, etc, etc. (Buick fan here )
  8. criticizing a students typing skills when asking about vintage cars? REALLY! They came here to get some help and advice not to be criticized. I agree with many of your comments but if I was in high school and had car collectors talking to me like that I would turn away from old cars and never look back. The public school system and parenting styles have changed and I agree mostly not for the better. My g/f has 3 kids in elementary school and I don't approve of her parenting style, nonetheless if any kid comes up to me asking about old cars I wouldn't judge them. I like the teachers idea (very creative and adaptive for modern students), but the students need to behave because like it or not there are rules on the forums.
  9. I wish to chime in again from a 25 year old perspective if i may. I attended a high school of about 350 students. Many of the boys were into cars mostly 60s-70s era. I was the only one who drove a car of any vintage (57 Chevy daily in high school). I got alot of criticism for keeping the 235 and 3 on the tree in the car. Most boys would have dropped in a 350 set up and slammed it to the ground. Most guys my age think old cars are unreliable and expensive to maintain, so if they have a old car many would opt for a modern drivetrain. I haven't had any of my classics (daily drivers to show cars driven daily) that haven't been reliable. The issue is that most vintage cars will require work with screwdrivers and sockets and for young guys they would rather plug in a car to a computer or pay a shop to fix it. I don't have a problem tuning a carburetor or adjusting points because I have done it and familiar with it. Most guys my age never have and won't do it to avoid looking stupid because they can't. On the hand that young people just aren't interested in classic cars I know is not true. Granted being one of the only young guys working,driving, and restoring classics in my area I also attended McPherson Auto Restoration program and 85% at least of the students are young. The thing to remember is that the AACA is more known for factory concourse enthusiasts (in my perspective). Heck I like nice drivers/local show cars more then concourse. My 59 Buick is getting a 66 TH400 and 61 3rd member to help it deliver power better (and for driving practicality) so my car can never be a concourse car, nor would I want it to be because I love driving my classics. If it was that perfect I wouldn't drive it and that defeats the purpose of owning a car (to enjoy and drive it). I also recall right after high school several older car collectors helping me out and being very friendly and very interested in my project. It was that kindness and support that got me to attend McPherson, yet that passion is such that for me its a hobby. When you guys see a young guy interested in cars. Help him out, teach him, and show him what his hard work can accomplish. It will make a lasting impression and put more guys in the hobby.
  10. At the time I didn't consider the master cylinder as being at fault. I do recall scrutinizing the master cylinder and booster seals when it was apart. It comes down to I didn't do my research before rebuilding it. I should have got a manual and read up on it before tackling it.
  11. McPherson is a great college for auto restoration. I attended there in 08, but didn't want it to be a career only a hobby. I am 25 and locally I am by far the youngest person in my local car club. I think a big reason many older folks don't think young guys are that much into classics is because of several misconceptions. First most people who have vintage cars aren't in a club of any kind (young guys in particular). Second is cost (most young guys are trying to pay for a house, family, etc and owning a vintage car is considered a luxury and therefore expensive and not necessary. Those in my opinion are the 2 main reasons for that. I am a fanatic about classics (bought my first car at 16 a 57 Chevy Bel Air), went through Packards, Pontiacs, Chevys, and Buicks. My 59 Buick project is a desire to finally restore a car. Its something to be proud of and to invest so much time, money, and patience the reward is not just to learn and improve skills but to see the product your hard work. Alot of young guys don't like commitment and to restore or buy a classic/antique car requires a great deal of it. lol Cheers from the Heatland
  12. I can tell you what I went through rebuilding my Treadle Vac booster for my 59 Buick. Before I rebuilt it, it leaked and sucked some brake fluid into the intake. I got the kit from Kanter and decided to rebuild it myself (big mistake). I have never rebuilt a brake booster before. I started by taking it apart to its basic components, and cleaning it. I installed the kit and reassembled it without using a manual (I am pretty good at remembering how to put things together). When I tested it, the booster worked great (hardly had to use ANY pedal pressure to get it to engage and went to the floor without much pressure)(I did bleed the brakes and rebuilt them before doing the booster). The problem was that for the life of me I couldn't figure out why so much brake fluid was getting sucked in the intake. I took it apart again to look at the 'veins' in the vacuum mechanism and it looked just like it did when I first took it apart. I ended up trading the entire power brake set up for a manual brake assembly. Had I of known then what I know now I would have sent it out to a professional.
  13. The side window frames (door, vent, and 1/4 window frames) are badly pitted on my 59 Buick 2 dr hardtop. I have been eyeballing getting new ones for a 59 Impala, but unsure if there was a difference in the frames for the different GM lines in 59-60. I know the roof lines and roof trim was identical between the lines but are the window frames?
  14. When I purchased my project (59 Lesabre 2 dr hardtop) I noticed all the AC stuff was still in the car. It was a early aftermarket set up. The car came with no motor or trans (I have a rebuilt motor and trans for it) and I am unsure how the compressor mounts on the engine. Many of the engine parts were in the trunk (3 pulley set up for P/S and AC). The compressor is a York I believe (all aluminum). Has anyone seen or have a nailhead with this compressor? Russ Martin was not sure how it mounted. The generator bracket in the trunk is a normal non AC bracket.
  15. I got one through portable garage depot this is the one http://www.portablegaragedepot.com/index.cfm?sku=SZ182810H&catid=160 I installed it in February to restore my 59 Buick. The canvas is very strong and I live in Nebraska. We get very high wind and high heat, hail, and heavy snow. It hasn't been up through winter yet to see how it does but so far it has stayed put and held up very well. I got the industrial canvas which has a 10 year warranty. The 2 things you want to keep in mind with tarp buildings is that you have to keep snow from building up on it in winter and to get the correct anchors for the type of ground it will be put on. Since Nebraska is mostly clay I used 1 auger anchor on every side of every 'rib' and put 2 augers on each end rib and the center rib. Winds so far got up to 65 MPH this summer, strong rain and hail and so far not 1 drop of water got through the canvas. I am welding and doing body work on my 59 and must be careful not to catch the building on fire. That is the downside of doing bodywork in 1 of these buildings, but for half the price its worth it.
  16. If your car is a flawless beauty I would use a place like http://www.paulschrome.com/ or http://www.advancedplating.com/ I haven't chromed any of the parts for my car yet, but a good reputation is critical when your car is a beauty. There is a 'local' plater called Sioux Chrome and alot of our show cars locally get plated there and they do a good job just not well known. Its website is http://www.siouxplating.com/
  17. I have seen a few of the oldest Buicks in existence, and the B on the radiator actually took me for a loss. All the very early Buicks Ive seen had the entire name badged on the front in a cursive sweeping pattern. None the less if it wasn't for the B I would swear it was a Buick. Seeing the quality of a Buick of any era makes me proud be a Buick Man :cool:
  18. Thank you all for your input. I read that Duponts Nason brand is about as good as the Chromo line, with the big difference being the flash time and color matching capability. I was a little nervous about using a paint line where there is little first hand options about it, so I am going to use Nason. Nason is a favorite around my part of the woods and have seen and heard alot of good stuff about the line. I am going to end up painting my car in a 'shelter' with wood plank floors. I am going to drape plastic around the car so I can seal out dirt and any impurities and filter air in so the fumes don't cause problems (along with a good respirator). The paint is a ways off still. My 59 has alot of rust issues. I already replaced several spots in the trunk, and am currently swapping the entire compartment floor from a donor car. Then there is the bottom of the doors, door skins, rockers, rear floor pans, trunk filler panel, and the bottom of the quarters before I am ready to media blast and prime. Wish me luck!
  19. I am doing a frame off on a 1959 LeSabre 2 door hardtop and my question is regarding replacing the entire floor from a parts car. The parts car is a mostly rust free 2 door sedan and I drilled every spot weld in the floor and unbolted the floor brackets from the frame. I jacked the floor braces up to pop the main floor panel from the body but I wasn't able to free it. Is it possible that the braces are spot welded to the inner rockers?
  20. What is next? Taxing personal transportation due to carbon emission? Anyone interested in vintage machinery should be worried by this. Being a avid rail fan I see many preservation groups not surviving if this passes on vintage machinery in the future. http://news.yahoo.com/obama-takes-coal-first-ever-carbon-limits-021642513--politics.html
  21. There are many good points being made. I agree with many of them yet I feel that most of the problem comes from the point of view of how much it CAN cost. Heck you can buy a older restored car for a fraction of what it would cost to restore. Alot of people my age see the high cost from auctions and shows talking about spending 50-100 grand to restore a car and think that's how much it costs. Its always advertised of how much CAN be spend and that is what people remember. Most people who make this hobby are every day people restoring cars in their garages yet its the big name collectors who tend to get the air time to talk about how much they have invested so it comes across as a hobby for the rich and few. I know my project won't be Pebble Beach quality and that's ok with me. I just want it to be a as new car with a few upgrades yet I can't get it out of my head that my car will be judged against those flawless cars by everyday people. They see the shows: Barrett Jackson, Pebble Beach, Hershey, etc and compare your garage restoration to these $100,000+ restorations. That I think keeps people away so they don't get humiliated although they spent alot of time and money to have a car they can be happy with. Even if it turned out perfect in the owners eye people will still be comparing it to concourse quality.
  22. What do you see as the greatest threat to the continuation to the vintage car hobby? Everyone has thought at one time or another about the future of collecting, restoring, and driving vintage cars and I would like to open a discussion about this. My opinion is the lack of interest among people my age (25) along with the cost to get into the hobby being the biggest problems. This is why. I have been into the vintage car hobby since I was 16. I am considered a eccentric by my friends for it to. I went to McPherson college for auto restoration only to find out I couldn't afford it, Yet I still spend all my money just trying to restore 1 car myself (1959 Buick 2 door). I have owned mostly GM 1954-1959 vintage and take great pride in driving my classics daily and showing my friends WHY post war cars kick a##. I see alot of my buddies interested but not willing to shell out the same amount of money for a car they can buy a house for. I still have about 25 to 30 grand to go before its finished plus all the time I have to put into it. The hobby has gotten so picky over the years that a good restoration 30 years ago would be mediocre at best now. Having owned 'restored' cars before to save money I found out people cut to many corners. That is why I am doing a nut and bolt restoration on my B59 (so I know it was done right). I noticed also that most car clubs I am a member of (BCA and 59 Division included) that I am the only or one of the only 'young' guys in it. So I have to 'prove' myself to be considered more then just a fan even though I have worked on, repaired, and partially restored cars from a 1954 Chevrolet with the Babbitt L6 to the 1959 Buicks. In that regard it seems that this hobby is centered around the older, wealthier generations thus making it uninviting to people my age to get involved. Is There a solution? This hobby has attracted many people from all walks of life but few young guys. It seems this hobby is in cruise control with nobody at the wheel to direct this hobby to address problems and threats to it. For example. When was the last time you saw an ad on TV promoting the restoration of vintage cars (not specific cars like mustangs but vintage in general) or trying to recruit new members? That alone can bring this hobby to the public mind and allow a influx of new membership not seen in decades.
  23. Mabe a break down into sub categories would help. Fins: 1958 Desoto 1959 Cadillac 1959 Buick 1959 Chrysler 1949 Cadillac Chrome: 1958 GM (any brand but Buick takes the cake for most brightwork of any car of any era. Love or hate it--- I LOVE the 58 Buicks! 1955-1958 Buick Cadillac and Oldsmobile (Pontiac would fit the bill of tons of brightwork as well) Muscle: 1969 Charger 1966 Riviera 1963 Grand Prix 1970 Road Runner 1968 Shelby GT 500 Unique Style 1955-1958 Packard 1951-54 Hudson 1950-1957 Studebaker 1950-1951 Ford Any Edsel Corvette Thunderbird Just to give you some inspiration.
  24. The transmissions of the mid 50s GM are a great subject to compare offerings of different Brands. Chevrolet had the power glide and turboglide starting in 57 if I remember right Pontiac had the hydramatic which starting in 56 had the 4 speed 'jetaway' hydramatic Oldsmobile used the hydramatic as well Buick had the one of a kind (famous or infamous) dynaflow Cadillac used the hydramatic as well these years I believe I have owned/own cars with all but the turboglide. The Chevrolet powerglide isn't anything spectacular. Yeah it shifts automatically without having to pop a clutch pedal but with only 2 speeds cruising at highway speed wraps the rpms to high The 1956 Pontiac Jetaway Hydramatic is a amazing transmission. I had a 56 StarChief with this incredible transmission. Low speed shift points make city driving MPG less of an issue and still running relatively low rpm on the highway makes cars with these transmissions a great daily or cruise car. Not to mention the 316.6 CI 2 barrel with the 4 speed hyro was advertised to get the best mileage of ANY v8 in 1956 (20? give or take a few mpg). Driving my 56 daily I can say you very likely can get more then that! Compare that to you 2005 Chevy small block v8 SUV with similar weight! Incredible to say the least! The Buick Dynaflow is a one of a kind love it or hate it transmission. My 59 Buick would float down the road at high speed or in town. Never feel shifting and smooth as glass. Smash the gas or ease on it the rpms wont go over 2500 (give or take a few hundred) until you are fully in top gear due to the design of the torque converter. The downfall is that they are very inefficient and if you want to use the power of your torque O terror nailhead to show up your buddies Ford or Dodge that transmission will suck up all the power. Thats why my 59 Buick restoration is using the TH400 (which by what I read was designed to be used behind Olds and Buick motors of the early-mid 60s).