Classic50s

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About Classic50s

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Central City, Neb
  • Interests:
    Buicks and Railroading
  1. I have a fully rebuilt 1959 Buick 364 nailhead with all the adapters and a rebuilt SP400 transmission. The motor was completely rebuilt, block magnafluxed, all parts new or rebuilt. Bored 60 over, stock 1959-60 401 cam for better breathing, stiffer springs to safely rev to 5500 without valve float, 4 barrel with 1959 401 Rochester 4GC carb (still has the pedal start switch on carb). Motor is broken in and ready to go. Ignition system has 40,000 coil and iridium plugs. All reciepts asking $5,000 for motor and transmission (can also throw in a th400 universal shifter linkage kit, AC and power steering components, recored radiator, and a rebuilt 59 Buick rear end bolted to a 61 3rd member for a open driveline, and the driveshaft to go with it). pictures availabe upon request (as well as pictures of the other items). Located in Central City, Nebraska.
  2. Has anyone used Evans Cool in their vintage car or truck? I saw Jay Lenos youtube page and he had a video about Evans Cool. I became interested because nailheads run hot and to be able to never worry about cooling problems again has me thinking. Cost is about $35 (give or take) per gallon, but you never have to worry about overheating, corrosion, or freezing water in your engine. Whats your all take on this modern coolant for our vintage cars? EDIT: Here is the link to the video
  3. Time to pull out the battery cables. I thought after having the heads rebuilt you need to retorque the bolts after getting the engine to operating temp.
  4. I had my 364 rebuilt for my 59 LeSabre and got it ready to fire on the stand so I can retorque the head bolts. I made a lead from the pos. terminal on the battery to a ballast resistor to the pos on the coil then from the coil to the distributor. I then used jumper cables from the battery to the main starter terminal and the positive terminal to crank it over. I couldn't get the starter to crank over fast enough to get the engine to fire. I used the small 12V from my 56 Chevy which it cranks over fine (worn out 265). My 364 is running the 10.5/1 compression pistons though. Do I have the basic idea right with the wiring, and just use battery cables and a bigger battery, or do I have the basics wrong? The motor was dynoed and ran great so I know she runs. Thank You
  5. oh. Many good ideas and cars came from the independents. I wish I had that subject in high school. I would have made a 3 hour speech out of it :cool:
  6. The 55 Special used the 264 and 59 LeSabre only used the 364. It would be better to swap the motor and trans from the 55 for a 364/dynaflow set up. Parts are easier to find, more power, and the 264 has some differences that made them slightly more problematic. It would be easier then finding a 55-56 dynaflow in Britain. The 364 and dynaflow was used from 57-61 (59-61 LeSabre only). Buick kept the torque tube through to 1960. I am not sure about torque tube, transmission, mounting differences from 55 to 59 though.
  7. What about good ole' Buick? Oldest surviving auto company in the US, saved GM from going under several times, one of the only luxury brands to make it to 3rd place in sales, last surviving middle priced American car brand, first US brand to use OHV as standard (i think), turn signals, child safety latching doors, etc, etc. (Buick fan here )
  8. criticizing a students typing skills when asking about vintage cars? REALLY! They came here to get some help and advice not to be criticized. I agree with many of your comments but if I was in high school and had car collectors talking to me like that I would turn away from old cars and never look back. The public school system and parenting styles have changed and I agree mostly not for the better. My g/f has 3 kids in elementary school and I don't approve of her parenting style, nonetheless if any kid comes up to me asking about old cars I wouldn't judge them. I like the teachers idea (very creative and adaptive for modern students), but the students need to behave because like it or not there are rules on the forums.
  9. I wish to chime in again from a 25 year old perspective if i may. I attended a high school of about 350 students. Many of the boys were into cars mostly 60s-70s era. I was the only one who drove a car of any vintage (57 Chevy daily in high school). I got alot of criticism for keeping the 235 and 3 on the tree in the car. Most boys would have dropped in a 350 set up and slammed it to the ground. Most guys my age think old cars are unreliable and expensive to maintain, so if they have a old car many would opt for a modern drivetrain. I haven't had any of my classics (daily drivers to show cars driven daily) that haven't been reliable. The issue is that most vintage cars will require work with screwdrivers and sockets and for young guys they would rather plug in a car to a computer or pay a shop to fix it. I don't have a problem tuning a carburetor or adjusting points because I have done it and familiar with it. Most guys my age never have and won't do it to avoid looking stupid because they can't. On the hand that young people just aren't interested in classic cars I know is not true. Granted being one of the only young guys working,driving, and restoring classics in my area I also attended McPherson Auto Restoration program and 85% at least of the students are young. The thing to remember is that the AACA is more known for factory concourse enthusiasts (in my perspective). Heck I like nice drivers/local show cars more then concourse. My 59 Buick is getting a 66 TH400 and 61 3rd member to help it deliver power better (and for driving practicality) so my car can never be a concourse car, nor would I want it to be because I love driving my classics. If it was that perfect I wouldn't drive it and that defeats the purpose of owning a car (to enjoy and drive it). I also recall right after high school several older car collectors helping me out and being very friendly and very interested in my project. It was that kindness and support that got me to attend McPherson, yet that passion is such that for me its a hobby. When you guys see a young guy interested in cars. Help him out, teach him, and show him what his hard work can accomplish. It will make a lasting impression and put more guys in the hobby.
  10. At the time I didn't consider the master cylinder as being at fault. I do recall scrutinizing the master cylinder and booster seals when it was apart. It comes down to I didn't do my research before rebuilding it. I should have got a manual and read up on it before tackling it.
  11. McPherson is a great college for auto restoration. I attended there in 08, but didn't want it to be a career only a hobby. I am 25 and locally I am by far the youngest person in my local car club. I think a big reason many older folks don't think young guys are that much into classics is because of several misconceptions. First most people who have vintage cars aren't in a club of any kind (young guys in particular). Second is cost (most young guys are trying to pay for a house, family, etc and owning a vintage car is considered a luxury and therefore expensive and not necessary. Those in my opinion are the 2 main reasons for that. I am a fanatic about classics (bought my first car at 16 a 57 Chevy Bel Air), went through Packards, Pontiacs, Chevys, and Buicks. My 59 Buick project is a desire to finally restore a car. Its something to be proud of and to invest so much time, money, and patience the reward is not just to learn and improve skills but to see the product your hard work. Alot of young guys don't like commitment and to restore or buy a classic/antique car requires a great deal of it. lol Cheers from the Heatland
  12. I can tell you what I went through rebuilding my Treadle Vac booster for my 59 Buick. Before I rebuilt it, it leaked and sucked some brake fluid into the intake. I got the kit from Kanter and decided to rebuild it myself (big mistake). I have never rebuilt a brake booster before. I started by taking it apart to its basic components, and cleaning it. I installed the kit and reassembled it without using a manual (I am pretty good at remembering how to put things together). When I tested it, the booster worked great (hardly had to use ANY pedal pressure to get it to engage and went to the floor without much pressure)(I did bleed the brakes and rebuilt them before doing the booster). The problem was that for the life of me I couldn't figure out why so much brake fluid was getting sucked in the intake. I took it apart again to look at the 'veins' in the vacuum mechanism and it looked just like it did when I first took it apart. I ended up trading the entire power brake set up for a manual brake assembly. Had I of known then what I know now I would have sent it out to a professional.
  13. The side window frames (door, vent, and 1/4 window frames) are badly pitted on my 59 Buick 2 dr hardtop. I have been eyeballing getting new ones for a 59 Impala, but unsure if there was a difference in the frames for the different GM lines in 59-60. I know the roof lines and roof trim was identical between the lines but are the window frames?
  14. When I purchased my project (59 Lesabre 2 dr hardtop) I noticed all the AC stuff was still in the car. It was a early aftermarket set up. The car came with no motor or trans (I have a rebuilt motor and trans for it) and I am unsure how the compressor mounts on the engine. Many of the engine parts were in the trunk (3 pulley set up for P/S and AC). The compressor is a York I believe (all aluminum). Has anyone seen or have a nailhead with this compressor? Russ Martin was not sure how it mounted. The generator bracket in the trunk is a normal non AC bracket.