Lapham3

Adding the overflow tank is a good idea. I've bought the larger aftermarket tank that used a wire basket to hold the plastic tank on some B/C body Buicks and noted that it was the same that GM parts also offered. But yes-not enough room for use in those E body Rivs. About 20 years ago on a boneyard trip I spotted a smaller one on a Ford Ranger or Mazda B2000 that I was able to mount on the inner fender of my '66 Riv-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Hi Jim-Some years ago I had Precision Upholstery make Stratobucket covers for my Seafoam '66 Cat. They did a nice job and added some padding. They were in south Mpls at that time, but moved up your direction a while back. Your experience may vary with the different buns as ours (carseat buns now of course)are quite a bit different.

I agree about the A/C as over my years it's been the highest maintenance item. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Howdy do funny Greg fellas. My 65 is happy as is-so to Tom

I've run into this just once, and I recall that after using a penetrant, I was able to then rotate it back and forth and out with something like chain or oil filter wrenches-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Those are the 'mechanical' gauges and the 270 degree faces for temp/oil are very good for seeing small variations from 'normal' that can help you picking up a problem before it gets too big. The oil pressure you can use a 'T' and have the gauge and idiot light. Many folks will only run copper line for this. I've used the plastic, but run it through rubber hose for protection. Bleed the air out of the line on initial start up for good readings. You will need to get your temp probe into the coolant and the best is either to give up your front passenger side 'idiot light' location or source the correct 3/8" square tool to turn out the plug in the now rear drivers side opposite head(a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter is generally not 'sharp' enough/too loose and not up to the job). This can be a tough task and requiring heat-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Tom certainly knows. I'll just add that this single bolt is longer than the others and can be mislocated into another location-in a bottom hole block location it will break that out and when a shorter bolt is then used for this bracket spot, stripping of the block threads. This goof isn't as likely with a non A/C car as 2 much longer shoulder type bolts are used for the alternator only alluminum bracket. I often see the studed rear head bolts that are for the firewall ground straps mislocated and the grounds either missing or flapped in the breeze. This can accompany the owner talking about the multi thousand $ rebuild recently completed=makes me question builder compentency on what we can't see.

I like a cardboard box in the trunk with water+fuel pumps, alt/gen, distributor, rad/heater hoses, fan belts, thermostat, spark plugs, a couple plug wires, fuel filter, carb kit, hose clamps/some nuts/bolts, coat hangar/wire, fluids, duct/duck! tape and the tool box. This for any trip further than a reasonable tow home. I'm sure others can come up with more or less than my list. Dan Mpls. Mn

FWIW-the '63 AFB and 4GC have mechanical linkage to the dynaflow (it's last year)that the '64 and newer don't-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

yup yup-"rare" is so much over used in our 'old car' world to the point that it's meaning is about lost. Most goofy drivers give my big ol Buicks a wide berth anyway-but if needed, a blast from those horns is almost like a giant hand giving them a shove! Dan Mpls. Mn.

A couple of us stopped in to visit RPM and found a nice operation. Not the jumble of a typical boneyard as it's tidy and organized. For those with parts needs, they probably don't have much time to visit websites to answer posts, so I'd give them a call. At our visit, most Buicks in the yard were pre '60, but from previous disassemblings, they have tons of parts shelved indoors. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Greg's location is included with his sig-(Now, if you can't figure it out he will increase his prices on you)good luck! Same town Dan-Minneapolis, Minnesota

Sometimes an incorrect dipstick gets in there so that part number is good to have. Not to scare or concern you, but if nothing else solves your question, I've pulled down engines that easily had enough oil pan sludge to displace 1/2 quart. Hope not the case for you-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Hi there-question for Ed Raner with your post #4. I know of some of the running changes Buick would tend to make over the years, but what are the "unique" parts involved for the '66? thanks-Dan Mpls. Mn

OK-I thought you had somebody, but maybe more is better than less- sometimes not, but for unmolested original, that takes a lot of the oppinion out of the quality of piles of 'work done' other that normal maint and parts R+R. There are several folks that have contibuted to this site and live nearby that know 1st gen and '65 Rivs-do a site search . You will find more on V8Buick.com. You should join The Riviera Owners Association(ROA) now and the annual gathering of Riv owners puts alot of cars and folks with knowledge in one place. This year it's an easy drive for you.

That looks like a nice deal as after you do the brakes/tires you'll be able to do the rest over time while you can still drive it.

There's probably fellas reading these posts that have what you want-or know of such. Since you didn't answer the 'budget' question, somebody that might consider selling may have stayed quiet. The '65 GS would be considered the most valuable Riv, and like the '64-5 GTO, and some others, considerably more likely to be a 'faked' car. The car want you are describing I think will be very costly. I'll just say that nothing beats a solid original as I've mostly been disappointed after carefully inspecting most 'work' and poor 'restorations' over the years-and they have to be personally inspected as descriptions and pics only get you so far. You'll need to spend time learning and/or having your knowledgeable person in your pocket. The ROA meet would a worthwhile trip for you-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

That '67 appears nice. I'd use most of that. The '66-7 qjets has side inlets like Chev and '68 forward front inlet. Intake to carb linkage interference sometimes happens with later carbs on early intakes. Casting flash and core shift are not so very good and seen alot, but not a big deal with a driver-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Very good to do that timing set and the old 'soup can' pistons of the day can often break skirts after all the years and miles-so keep the revs reasonable and your ears open-good luck

There are a number of Minnesota folks that have good knowledge about these if you need more help-good luck. Dan

My dad and gramps were both mostly Buick guys. I liked them, but also other marques-mainly Pontiac. My dad traded his '65 Catalina when he took delivery of the '67 Wildcat coupe he'd ordered. It was a good car for some time-a leaky rear main seal and engine mount breakage where the fan then took out the radiator shroud were the only maint items other then PM that I recall. I was driving a '65 Pontiac GP and at a point dad and I traded cars back and forth a few times. At the last time my family lived in Minneapolis while I was in Denver. One day in 1971 when the cat had about 75k miles as I was driving out of the mountains I noticed the 430 had developed an engine knock. Troubleshooting, including disabling spark to cylinders one at a time, indicated that #7 was not happy. Teardown found a spun rod bearing and a complete rebuild followed. Dad got the car back from me and drove it a few more years without issue. I was always a bit puzzled a by all this as the car had good maint and was not a car that was 'beat on'. Now, as we move to more modern times and can look back, we know this experience wasn't uncommon and we know why. Some years ago a group of Twin Cities area 'Buick guys' had a chance to meet and chat with retired Buick engine engineer, Cliff Studdecker. He, like engine designer Dennis Manner, was a Minnesota native and had long careers with Buick. Cliff talked about testing and results of the new 'lightweight' 400/430 engines being developed to replace the nailhead 401/425. While the nailhead had a forged 2 1/2" main crankshaft, the new engines were to have a casting. I don't recall if this first included the 3" mains or were originally smaller, but Cliff stated that there were breakage problems until this dimension increased to the 3 1/4" that the 400/430/455 all used thru their production life. He explained that under full power runs, the lightweight block flexed. I recall asking him-"So the block was stabilized by the rotating assembly. That sounds nuts!!??" He kinda smiled nodding. Anyway, the increased bearing surface area thus now had more oiling needs that the 'divorced' oil pump design was able to handle as miles and years added up.(and by the oil distribution path, #7 was often the first failure location). Cliff also talked about 'real world' testing with instrumented cars driving between Michigan and the Desert Proving Grounds. Full power blasts up Colorado's Ute Pass were mentioned-it was an interesting and worthwhile day. So...for some years now I've had a Calif '67 cat like dad's and as time went by (many more years than ours but at about 80k miles)I began to notice a slight drop in hot idle oil pressure (ALWAYS run gauges since 1971)and the slightest lower knocking under load. I built a 455 (with the oiling fixes) did a swap and all is better. A look at the original 430 showed the rod bearings about ready to do more than complain as they plastigauged around .0038. So that's my story with the new, improved 430 and while the head design is fine, I prefer the nail. Dan Mpls. Mn.

I have both and to me the main differences are in the design, not the driver experience. I'll do another thread that some may find interesting.

There's a fella up here that likes to play with Apollos-puts 455s in them and such. The new '72 Vega hatch that we had was very handy and then even better with the Nova body cars. I've tried to have a hatchback around ever since.

If a $200 reproduction tank is decent and can made to reasonably fit, it would probably be 1/3 the price of the 'renue' fellas. Most I've seen have been good, but expensive imo-good luck. Dan Mpls. Mn.

Riviera Gold? I'm not familar with Fawn except as an INTERIOR scheme in my '66 225. I have a '66 Riv with an EXTERIOR paint of Champagne?? Are we all confused yet? Looks like a decent car, but in a 2nd gen Riv, I'll take the '66 nailhead before a 430!!