Tom_Overfield

Chris Herrel listed in sources under Boos-Herrel, he has what you seek.

If that harness is similar to my 41, you will take the main harness and feed one part of that harness thru the grommet for the firewall, those will be your under dash wiring. There will be a two other parts of that harness one going to the left, and a shorter one going to the right inside the engine bay. Those will feed your lights, voltage regulator, generator etc. it took my son and I well over a week to totally fit this harness and if you find something that doesn't seem to be long enough to fit, go back and recheck, you have done something wrong with the routing.. it sure will be nice when you are finished. Here is another hint from Tom Akins, take an old pair of side cutters , or buy a cheap pair, right in the center of both jaws, use a dremil with a cut off wheel and grind a small V in the middle of each jaw. It makes fastening those bullet connectors much much easier . Wait till you get that dash harness in. Once everything is in the dash, instruments, clock, radio, glove box etc. if everything works, the you can install the front seat. And I totally agree with Tom on this, you need to put the V-12 in first, save your self some time and aggravation. Tom

Yes indeed, that is the route we took but traffic was horrible and getting three massive traffic jams that delayed out arrival by three hours , we finally got there about 7:30. Took the same route back home and it took 8 hours and very light traffic. No clue why such heavy traffic all day Sunday . i bought my car in 1976, and just finished the restoration at the end of this past May. I know his pain. I have one more car to get rid of as there is now way I am going to even start the process. Tom

Taking my 41 three window project car I bought from John Murphy many years ago to Todd Calder in Ct this morning. 3 window body on a 41 4 door donor car. 4 NOS fenders, 2 NOS skirts, one NOS 40 hood, two 41 hoods, two really nice trunk lids. All interior garnish, two doors, V-12 with transmission attached. Bottom two feet of 6 doors that are solid for the rust repair on the doors and body, trunk hinges, all stainless and rear window. The car itself is fully packed with parts and my van is loaded as well. I don't have another restoration in me, and Todd bought the other 41 3 window I bought from Keith Lee about two years ago. I think this will be a great project for Todd and his son. My neighbor and I will leave Kent, Oh, this morning at 8, and 535 miles later arrive at Todds. One heck of a project, but I have seen several done like this over the years. Tom

Thanks Larry appreciate it.. JB, the original radio had this color of face plate, so that's what I went with. I have heard thoughts both ways.

Hi Folks, The authenticity manual for my Continental says it is supposed to have an insulaterial material toward the rear part of the hood to cover the welding where the hood was lengthened, I have been searching for something that might work such as maybe a tar paper roofing material. or possibley something like dynamat if it can be located in black.,any thoughts? Tom

Ok, I really feel stupid now, what I though was a foreign object in the intake runner was nothing more than seeing half of the vacuum fitting for the wipers. At least I have piece of mind now and have assured myself nothing else is in the manifold. Bolted back into place, head replaced. Will torque it all together later this evening when is cools down. Tom

It was slammed into the head where it stuck in place, was a real blister to pull that out and then remove all of the aluminum that was pushed back into the water jacket. I will run the head to the welding shop this week,to be repaired. It was more like stainless steel, no reaction to a magnet at all.

No idea what it is, about a nickel size piece of something that fell into the intake years ago while sitting with no carb. I agree it looks like a hole, but it isn't. Those scratches are what I made trying to move it

Bought a bore scope an Amazon two days ago, it arrived today. Look what I found inside one of the intake runners, no clue what it is, but no doubt a piece of this caused the damage. 40 bucks well spent, no way could I see it without this instrument. Now how to remove it is another issue. Guys, you really need one of these, I was all set to put that intake back on, so glad I waited. It is wireless and connects to iPhone, iPad and several other devices. Cord is 34 feet long, 6 leds, lots of features.

Hi Folks, OK after the disaster with my V-12, I no doubt have water in the oil, a lot as the indicator button is way over the fill mark. My thoughts were drain the oil, pull the filter to see if any water made it there, drain the filter canister, replace filter, put cheap oil in, run till warm. Drain this oil and see if any water remains. If so, do this once more before adding the expensive oil. What have I overlooked? Thanks Tom

Ok, being the A type that has to have everything as correct I can make it, I cannot fine a source for this paint BUT, I did read a thread on fordbarn and a guy there was restoring his 40 convertible , ordered a rear window frame that matched the top bow paint. Went to a paint supplier with this frame , and what he says is almost an exact color for those bows is either a Ditzler or PPG paint code # DAR25319 Mercedes tan.

So last a week ago was was driving my car for about 15 miles on the interstate, going about 60, every thing great, no over heating, great oil pressure etc. Off interstate, made it 4 blocks at 40 mph and the dreaded Bang! Then , missing and pouring white smoke out of the tail pipe. No big deal, blown headgasket, how wrong I was. Pulled the right head and found two pieces of metal pounded into the combustion chamber of that polished head causing a pretty big hole , pulled both valves on that cylinder seats were fine, checked all 10 other valves no issues with seats or valve heads. I did replace one of the valves in the damaged cylinder as it had a slight mark in it. The only thing that makes any sense is something had to be the intake manifold and after 524 miles, finally shook it self loose and got sucked into the cylinder, up comes the piston and shoves it into the head. Luckily I had another good right side head, polished and ready to install. A few photos to follow Tom

Ok, located what I had left or that paint, the Sherwiin Williams paint number is CG484. Top Iron Tan /Gray for vintage FoMoCo vehicles. Hope this is helpful. Tom

You might try calling Color-Rite Refinishing for some help with that color. He no longer produces the paint due to a number of issues, but he was for years the go to guy for the correct colors, maybe he can help with the codes you need. 203 393 0240. Ed Spagnolia. ( may have murdered the spelling of his last name.) Tom

That's exactly right Larry, all Ford Convertibles of that era used that finding it today may be a bit more difficult.

Check with Chris Herrel listed here in sources, I'll bet he has what you need. Tom

Ryan, the clock set cable goes thru a hole on the bottom side of the dash somewhere near and under the clock, put the cable thru the hole and screw the round nut on to hold it in place. Can't help you on your horns. Tom

Antique Auto Battery has the Zephyr script batteries, with the Optima battery inside. Enourmus cranking ability. I painted the script,with gold sign painters paint. Tom

Just about any welding shop can tig weld a bolt onto the sheared off bolt and back the broken part out. Tom

5EH indicates it is a 46 77 indicates it is a two door coupe 3222 indicates it was the 3222 car built

That is Chris Herrel's 40.

Thanks Dave

Beautifully done!