toomuchvinyl

I actually saw a driver using hand signals recently.

I agree Winston. Looking at the photos of Ed's cap and looking down into the holes in my own, it looks like one or two have a "shoulder" partway down and others are smooth walled to the bottom. The sources for screws that I've looked at so far offer a wide range of small sizes like that but I haven't seen any that are self tapping yet. I'm not sure if that would matter if you could get a size that would bite the sides slightly to get a small purchase and before you put them in for the final time, drip some thread lock stuff or maybe even epoxy into the holes. It's gonna take some applied science to get through this one

I've been watching the thread and am very impressed with Winston's work on using a wheel center for a horn cap! I'd mentioned in an earlier post that I had a possibility other than seeing if the Chevy cap may have similar clips. What I was referring to is that I have family members who own a metal fabricating shop. They have computer controlled Laser and Waterjet cutting equipment and manufacture all sorts of production and one-off items. I sent a photo of my horn cap showing both the broken and intact clips to my uncle and he believes that they could make a new clip using spring steel banding material of the same gauge. Now the dilemma I'm having. He asked me to send in a clip, preferably the broken one IF I had the broken off piece as well as what remained. Otherwise, he would need an unbroken one to scan and model. I checked the floor of the car and the recess behind the horn bar and I cannot find the broken off bit. Because of the issue with the clips being attached to castings rather than being simply riveted on, I'm hesitant to remove an intact clip as then I'd have only one good clip left and the center cap would be useless if I messed up trying to drill and tap the castings to reattach the replacements. I don't have a drill press and would be very nervous about trying to use a hand drill make the holes. On a positive note, it does look like very small taps are available https://www.victornet.com/detail/TAMP-1.6-.35.html as well as screws. Just need to determine the length that would be needed.

Hmmm.... Jewelers tap and die set and eyeglass screws? - https://www.amazon.com/MINI-SCREWPLATE-0-7-2mm-JEWELRY-MAKING/dp/B00WAJSWCC/ref=sr_1_1/141-4709491-2142105?ie=UTF8&qid=1532389828&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+tap+and+die And heavy duty LocTite

I sure will Ed, I know you were possibly needing all 3 for a cap you had. One question for you, when you removed the clips from your cap, were they just attached with rivets, or as I saw someone guessing were the attachments indexing posts that were peened over?

Again, many thanks Winston. I know both Schmiddy and myself would be very grateful. One of my next moves was seeing if any of the used part vendors had a cap that was not suitable for use but could be scavenged for the clips.

Thank you for checking Winston, I also checked my '65 mustang center cap even though I knew they were longer. I'll pursue the idea about the Chevy cap and also look into another possibility I'd thought of. And so the quest goes on!

I would be happy to share any info I can find. Right now, I'm curious about the possibility of the retainers being similar on a '65 or '66 repro center cap from a Chevy Impala with woodgrain wheel. I just can't find a photo of the back side of one to see. If nothing else comes up, I'll try calling one of the parts companies that sells them and ask for a photo or at least a description. The caps are around $60 US but if the clips are similar I'm sure I could find others who may want the ones I don't need to help share the cost.

Hoping someone can help me with this, I recently removed the cap from the woodgrain steering wheel on my '64. When I went to place it back on, I noticed that the "ear" on one of the 3 retaining clips had broken off. I'm guessing that those clips are spring steel so trying to fabricate one would be difficult at best. Has anyone had this happen and if so, what did you do to fix it?

I don't know the actual specifications of the box other than the number of turns lock to lock which is 2.5. I'll have to defer to @telriv for more details. Brad, I don't know what the range of model years was that this steering box was used. I did see a reply in the "Quick Steering Ratio Box" (posts #66, #67) that it would fit a '68. Again, Tom @telriv could answer this question.

After reading the threads "Quick Ratio Steering Box" and "63 Riv Steering Box Replacement", I decided to try one of (telriv) Tom Telesco's steering boxes in my '64. This has been the single greatest improvement that has been made to my car since I've owned it. Some time ago, I had the center link and other front end components replaced as needed as well as the rear track bar bushings. At that time I also has the alignment set to the positive caster recommendation that I'd seen here in the forum. Those things made a marked improvement to the handling of the car but I was still disappointed in the vague steering response. The new steering box has resolved that final issue and I could not be happier. I still have standard shocks on the car as they were not worn out by any means and finances dictate that I cannot spring for a set of the Bilstiens at this time but I'm so pleased with the improvement that I'm not missing them. Maybe a set of those and some new springs someday, but in the mean time I'm well satisfied. What I'd call the "Driving Experience" really hasn't changed. The steering effort is the same and as Red Riviera Bob expressed it, the character of the ride and steering are still 100% first gen Riviera.

I'll look on YouTube and check that out. Thanks Ed!

That's a new possibility and it makes sense that a little thermal expansion/contraction could help to break it loose. Thanks Arnulfo!

I posted this a few years ago but wanted to revive it to see if anyone who wasn't a member of the forum at the time or didn't see it may have any wisdom to share. I've been a little reluctant to get tough with the distributor for fear of breaking it but I would like to get this resolved this summer if I can. Thanks again to those who responded back in '15 and I'd still appreciate any insights others may be able to offer. Keith

I missed the first showing of this episode but I saw the same claim in a trailer on Facebook. Kind of disappoonting -

Many thanks for this, my '64 has saddle trim and I have been wondering what to do about the gas pedal. Excellent solution!

Thanks! I hadn't looked yet but it's on my list of needs.

Bill did you still have the J-bolt or whatever for the spare tire hold down or did you have to find some replacement? If you did have to get a replacement, what did you use?

Rocket 88, that looks like a fine replacement. I'll get by NAPA tomorrow and see about getting one. I didn't subscribe to this thread when I started it and so didn't see the newer replies until this afternoon. Tom, the news that it's possible (even if not practical) to rebuild the original valve is also interesting. Retirement is just a few weeks away and I will be happy to have more time to spend with my cars.

PM sent.

Let us know how it works for you. I also bought a trunk release setup but mine came with no hose at all. If this works well for you, I may buy your excess. Or if someone beats me to it at least I know I can get it from Summit.

Interesting! I just thought that all of the first gen Riviera's had gas, brake, emergency brake pedal pads that matched the interior color. My '64 is a very early production model that (as near as I can tell) came with some '63 stuff like the tri-shield center on the wire hubcaps and I have colored pedals.

Thanks, I'd been told by local folks that maybe putting a penetrating oil around the edges of the base and tapping with a plastic faced hammer would be something to try. I was just hoping that the aluminum/iron conflict hadn't just fused it together. Guess my worst case would be having to find a good used one if I break it.

Hello! The distributor in my '64 is stuck and cannot be adjusted. Has anyone had to fight this issue and if so, what can you recommend? I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks, Keith

Tom and Steve, thanks for your posts. Whether or not Rare Parts or any supplier has a rebuilt unit on hand, it does I'm afraid come down to the fact that someone in the past has begged, cried, offered up thier firstborn or whatever to get hold of one of these then never came through with the core. I was saving that up as a final attempt if I was not able to come up with one. I went through the ads in the Riview as I mentioned in my last post and I believe I have managed to find one. Once I have my car done, I'm considering asking if the club might want the core to lend out to members sort of like the arrangement that I was looking for. Not sure if the Library would want a greasy part hanging around but as time goes on these are clearly becoming harder to get.