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fossiltin62's Achievements

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  1. We have a saying in our shop that we use to describe what almost all people who are unable to do their own work see in a "restored" car. We say "It's not what it is, it's what it looks like". This explains the many "restored" cars we see that do not run right or do not run at all. We are presently doing chassis rebuilding on two cars that were brought to us. Both are beautiful and expensive (over $100.000) "restorations" but neither ran well enough to be used. Now we are expected to rebuild the chassis on these without messing up the "what you see" part of the restoration. It was explained to both owners that we would only do the best we could do to save what was done by others, they would be responsible for what had to be redone. Not restoring the chassis is not restoring the car, it's just fixing it up. We do not do that kind of work, and tell those that ask for that kind of work to take it elsewhere. Generally in this shop a complete restoration to new will cost the owner just about what John S above said, roughly $100,000 t0 $200,000, and can be considerably more depending upon what we have to start with, and sometimes that's not a lot. What I just printed is what I tell those who need a "guesstimate", on a job. I might add we do not lack for work. Good luck with the GTO!
  2. Took my test in a 1931 Essex RS Coupe in the spring of 1958. I still have the car, and yes, I had to use hand signals. I'd been driving it on the back roads since I was 14, so I knew what I was doing. I think it helped that the cop was sweet on my sister...
  3. Stu, Nice 1930 brougham! I'm not equipped to send pictures (or maybe I am and don't know how), I'll see if I can get one of the young guys here to do it for me. Hang on, I'm mighty slow. Will
  4. Sir, I have a touring body (rough - needs complete re-wooding) if you've any interest. Also nice fenders. Perhaps one of us should buy what the other has. Discuss this with me if you wish. 580-763-2921
  5. Sir, I have the horn, dome light glass and flywheel cover. 580-763-2921, Will
  6. Sir, I own a restoration shop in Mena AR. We are presently doing a 1932 Chrysler CM6. Perhaps I can help you. 580-763-2921 weekdays. Will
  7. Wanted: I need a complete engine for a 1931-32 Chrysler CM-6
  8. Sir, I have the item you need. Please let me know if you still need this item. W. Moon
  9. If you've not found this item yet, let me know. I have several of them.
  10. Sir, I'd like to talk to you about this trunk. Please send me your phone number. My email is Xfossiltin62@yahoo.com, delete the X. Thanks.
  11. Sir, Have you sold this Hudson yet? Will Moon 580-763-2921
  12. I have two of these wheels @ $100.00 each plus shipping. 580-763-2921
  13. I would do a major leak test on the dipper tray. I realize it's soldered in, but the best way is to unsolder and remove it. If there is no leak, then you have a problem. I'll refer you to Coley's advice above. I have several of these cars, and the only problem I've ever encountered is a leak, as the tray is filled from both front and rear by separate lines from the oil pump.
  14. Also,I have a double lifetime supply of these fittings both new and used in brass and in aluminum. If you still need one email me, or call.
  15. Gentlemen, I own 7 Essex cars all having this fitting on the vacuum tank (1930-31). I have also been rebuilding vacuum tanks for over 40 years. I'm here to tell you that Stewart Warner knew very well what it was doing when they installed this gadget on their tanks. These tanks (and all others) are not foolproof. It looks as though all of you who have answered this question have agreed that it is useless. Since I do not care to get into a running battle with all of you over this as I don't really care whether you use them or not, and since it takes me forever to type (one finger) I'll be glad to tell anyone who calls me what it is and what it is for. Then you can do your own thing. 580-763-2921, and it's best in the evenings. Also, sometimes my phone can be cussed. Quality item, you know.
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