61polara

Brian, back on your horn issue. I believe the relay plug terminal that you circled in red is to for the horn ring wire. This wire that runs up the steering column provides the ground for the horn relay to send power to the horn. You could also test continuity if you make up very long test leads. If all of this tests good, your relay is bad.

I'll be there set up in the trade show.

The 1960 Buick used only one key for the ignition, door, glove box and trunk. Buick still retained the one key system because the ignition switch was a "valet" type switch. This switch has nibs on the front of the switch which are used to start the car with out a key. The positions on the ignition switch from left to right are: LOCK, OFF, ON, START. The key can be removed in the LOCK or ON position. When parking in a valet lot, remove the key while in the "ON" position and then switch the ignition to "OFF". The switch can then only be moved between OFF, ON and START. The valet could start the car and park it, but without a key could not access the trunk. Chevrolet was also using this system in this period. I don't believe Cadillac, Oldsmobile or Pontiac ever used this system.

The last I heard from Emblemagic about a year ago was that they were finishing up everything they had in the shop and not accepting any new orders. That may be why you haven't received a response.

In AACA judging, there is a 2 point deduction for radial tires where bias ply tires were only offered. Doesn't matter if they are Coker or Diamondback. Nice car! If they are original KH wires, they are correct for 1955, but were not designed for radial tires stress on turns.

Yes, they look the same. I don't have a Buick with these anymore, but I do have the MoPar strips.

Using the slide hammer setup you were actually pulling on the axle and hub in the same direction. With the drum puller, you are pushing in on the axle while pulling on the drum/hub. That's why the axle came out.

You really need the correct puller to get that hub off. Now we understand why you are having such a problem with it.

When I discovered this, I was looking at the shop manual and it looks like the heater valve is attached to the heater core. My car must have a replacement heater core as there is no valve attached to it and the water hoses go directly to the core.

On my '60 Invicta, I was having trouble controlling the heat temperature. When I looked in the heater box, the control valve was eliminated and the cable not connected to anything. The way the temperature is controlled now is by opening and closing the air intake door using the Heat leaver only. It never cuts off the flow of water through the core, but with no air flow there is minimal heat coming through in the summer.

Those headliner strips were also use in MoPar products in 1960-61 and possibly other years. That could give you a source for additional volume of sales.

Join the Lincoln Continental Owners Club. They used to publish an annual roster that included the serial number of each member car. You may be able to find someone in the club that has an archive of these. Hopefully your Dad was a member and you can find the serial number of his car there and then start the search.

I have reproduced these backing plates for the 1939-40 Cadillac and LaSalles in a modern urethane material. Sold all I had on hand at Hershey. Time to make a new batch.

I agree this is a 1939-40 LaSalle horn button.

Ok, so the hub of the brake drum is still mounted on the axle shaft and you have the correct puller. You can bolt the puller directly to the hub. Tighten the puller against the axle shaft as tight as you can by hand. Take a large hammer and hit the cross bar handle of the puller with a large hammer like a hand sledge. Hit it hard until it is as tight as you can get it. Leave it alone and come back in an hour and hit it again. Let it sit for a while or even overnight. Hit it again and tighten it further. You may not think it is moving any, but if you can tighten it further, it has. You have to keep tight tension on the puller for it to work. You may have to do this over several days. Applying some penetrating oil to the axle may help. You can also apply some heat to the hub. Tapping the hub while it is under tension to set up a vibration may help as well.

I'm still very confused by what you are trying to do. The rear hub is attached to the drum and is not to be removed. There is no outer bearing in there like on the front wheels. So there is no seal there. On the backing plate, there is a square metal plate held on by four bolts. The only rear axle seal is behind this plate. Take out the four bolts and remove the plate and the seal is right there. There is no outer and inner seal, only this one seal and one bearing in the rear. Also, I'll repeat, there is no flange on the rear axle as this is a tapered axle. Do not try to remove the hub from the drum. You will destroy it if you haven't already.

I'm confused by what you are asking. A picture would help. The 1938 Plymouth rear axle doesn't have a flange because it is a tapered axle. The drum comes off with the hub.

You can replace the relay with a Ford style relay and it will work fine, but won't look like the original.

I'm working with a customer who would like me to reproduce a gear shift, turn signal and other knobs for his Kaiser. I have a few molds for these, but need help in identifying what knobs were used on which years and models. If you have original knobs on your car or have them as spare parts, please post a photo with identification of the year and model. For gear shift knobs, please note if they are for an automatic or manual transmission. Also, if you are interested in selling spare knobs, I may be interested in purchasing them to make reproductions from. www.danddautomobilia.com

I believe AACA had "Historic Hot Rod Class" for a short while about 25 years ago. If I remember correctly, the qualifications were much like the current historic race car class, in that there must be documentation that the conversion was done more than 25 years ago and it must be restored to reflect the car in the period documented. Documenting the car was the problem for the owners. Historic race cars must have documentation that the car was actually raced. Generally there is some documentation available in the press or particular speedway documentation. I believe the Hot Rod Class was discontinued because no one ever qualified for it for lack of period documentation. UPDATE: Steve has clarified below that this was discussed but was never created as a class in AACA. Thanks for the correction Steve.

Unless the rear end has been changed its top speed is about 45 mph.

Not a dually, looking at the rear interior shots. It most likely has heavy overrider springs like the AACA Bookmobile. If it's like the Bookmobile, it was usually heavily loaded and resulted in major wear on the overrider springs.

Chrysler used Briggs & Stratton locks on the door and ignition in those years. No telling what the locking gas cap may be.

They should be used on all GM cars with power windows of that period.

As a side note, Snap-On hand tools were (and possibly still are) marked with a year date code symbol. Those made for WWII government contracts have a special code to that effect, which meant they could not be returned for warranty purposes. The government purchasing department saw this as a way to reduce the government cost.