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61polara

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Everything posted by 61polara

  1. 1974-1978 Ford LTD Landau
  2. Twenty-two years ago, lacquer paint was pretty much phased out, replaced by urethane single stage and basecoat clearcoat systems. To test if this car is painted in lacquer, put some lacquer thinner on a rag and rub a spot of the paint. If color comes off rather easily, then it is lacquer. If not, it is enamel or a urethane product. If it is lacquer, then you should strip the car to bare metal before a repaint. Lacquer checks (very small hairline cracks) as it ages. Spraying a urethane paint over it will cause the cracks to swell and you will never get a satisfactory finish. Lacquer can be sprayed over old lacquer and will tend to melt in the checking to some degree, but you may have areas that remain hazy because of the checking in the original paint.
  3. There are 31 AACA Regions and Chapters in PA. Go to the AACA Home page (aaca.org) and select "Regions" . Select PA in the dropdown and all the Regions and Chapters in PA will be listed. Contact information is listed for the Region President.
  4. I believe this is part of the fender assembly and that is why you don't see a part number for it.
  5. In this time, many dealers ordered the cars without radios, especially if there were several radio options. This was extra money to the dealer, when factory options were installed at the dealer. As far as the AACA (and I believe the BCA) 400 point judging systems, there is no deduction for dealer installed factory authorized options.
  6. You shouldn't have a lot of problem finding someone in the PA area to help you with your car. If you are not a member of a local AACA region, you should join one. There are many regions in your area and through joining one you will meet people who can help you find someone to work on your car or help you with it. You may consider joining the Horseless Carriage Club as well. Officially they only recognize cars through 1915, but you would be welcomed and will find many who can help you there. I own a 1921 Maxwell 25 touring which is basically the same car. As far as overheating, this car has a thermosyphon cooling system which acts much like an old percolator coffee pot. The water begins to boil and that begins the circulation. It may not be overheating, just doing what it should be doing.,
  7. If you look at the dash picture with the door open, you can see the end of the dash that is covered when the door is closed. The color is much lighter there and should be the original color. I think the exposed panels have yellowed from a combination of sun and tobacco smoke over the years. Also, there is a Lincoln forum below on this page.
  8. Here you can see the lip on the edge of the plastic. This is a 1946-47 Buick horn center and may be the same as the 1942. After many trys, I was able to pry the old plastic center out of the chrome housing. To replace it with another one, I filed the edge until I could pop it into place.
  9. Look at the over-center spring on the clutch underneath the car. It may need adjustment. Another thing to look at is the the bushings in the clutch and brake pivot shaft. They may be worn and causing the pedal to bind on the floorboard.
  10. Thanks for posting the parts manual page. The item in question is "C" in the top diagram. It was serviced as an assembly with the plastic set into the chrome housing when it was made.
  11. I wonder how Pertronix works with the required grounding of the ignition system for the simi-automatic transmission to downshift when the accelerator is floored. I think I would try to find out why your condensers are burning out.
  12. According to the 1953 Cadillac Salesman's Data Book, only cloth interior was offered in the Series 62 coupe. In the DeVille coupe, full cloth or cloth and leather was offered, but not a full leather interior. The convertible was available a full leather interior only.
  13. Once you get the original out, you will see what I'm talking about.
  14. Explore the AACA Home page here and see everything we offer our paid members. The magazine is published 6 time a year. We host around 6-8 National Shows in different locations in the US each year and offer Tours as well. We are the largest antique automobile club in the US. Plus, we have local regions all over the country.
  15. You will need to disconnect the rear axle and torque tube assembly and roll it back from the transmission. This involves raising the rear of the car, supported on the frame. Disconnect the shock links, rear brake hose, emergency brake cable, panhard bar and springs. I have disconnected the panhard bar and shock links and pulled the rear end back with a come-along while leaving the springs attached. You will need to fabricate a holding fixture to support the rear of the engine. This is all covered in the factory service manual.
  16. Very carefully. I haven't figured out how these were installed originally, but I suspect they were slightly heated and then popped into place. There is a ring on the lower outside edge of the side of the plastic insert that fits in a grove in the chrome housing. There is no way to access it from the back side. I would heat the chrome assembly in water on a stove to about 150 degrees and you should be able to flex it enough to remove it. That may be the way to install the replacement that you have, but I don't know how the painted finish and plating on the old plastic will hold up to the heat. You should post this in the Buick section below as well.
  17. Glad you found us and welcome. If you continue to enjoy the website, consider becoming a paid member to support the site as well as receiving the excellent magazine published by the club and find out about all of our other activities. Attending the Annual Convention is a great way to introduce yourself to all the club offers.
  18. Note that the recessed areas on the radio buttons are for drop-in small cards with the call letters printed on them. These were supplied with the radio.
  19. To attend, you have to be a paid member of AACA, which is $45 per year. You can join AACA from the AACA home page here. Registration will open next week is $45 plus additional fees for dinners and special events you may wish to attend. You should be able to join and register at the Convention, but I recommend pre-registering, so your name tag and event tickets are ready when you check in. I've been attending for about 20 years and the seminars are great and it's a wonderful way to meet other members from all over the country. 2024_AACA_Annual_Convention_Chantilly_VA.pdf
  20. I agree with Smartin, that I have never seen one on a 1960 Buick. With the large reservoir, the refill bottle was not needed. I do remember them on Oldsmobiles of the time and possibly later Buicks (1964). If you decide to mount it on your '60, the original fluid was green, not blue, so add some yellow food coloring to it.
  21. Only the First Place Grand National winners receive the blue grill badge. Second and Third place winners (as well as Preservation) winners will continue to compete for the First Place Grand National. Once the First Place Grand National award is received you move to the Senior Grand National category. Remember, Charlotte this year is Dual Nationals with the GN on Friday and the National on Saturday. You will need to register for both shows with two registrations if you plan on attending the National as well.
  22. Registration will be open in time for the 8:00 AM seminars. A listing of the seminar schedule should be out soon.
  23. Cars of this period were generally titled using the motor number. Your car appears to have the original motor in it as it is #821 and the body is #820. There was no such thing as a matching number car then, so you would expect the motor number and body number to be close. Contact GM Heritage and the can provide you with the build card with this information.
  24. All the hydro-lectric systems were very similar. Compare what you see on your firewall and I think you will see it is very similar to the mounting on the 1950. Have you checked the 1948 Buick shop manual?
  25. It should have prongs all the way around it that hold it in by spring tension of the prongs. Wiggle it from side to side and up and down and it should pop out. You may be able to work a small screwdriver in around the edge to pop it out.
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