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Everything posted by 61polara

  1. I've posted a link below to Chevrolet's instruction manual for driving a 1950 Powerglide. The 1950-52 Powerglide was like Buick's Dynaflow. No shifting of the transmission in Drive. Chevrolet notes that for faster take-off or for more power climbing a hill, manually move the shift leaver to Low and then back to Drive when Low is no longer needed. http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Chevrolet/1950_Chevrolet/1950 Chevrolet Tomorrows Driving Today/image1.html
  2. Try washing it several time with a gallon of water with a cup of kerosene in the water. Let it dry on the car, then wash it again. It will make a huge difference in the paint and will protect the bare metal from rusting.
  3. 61polara

    HPOF Class

    HPOF started off allowing only car 45 years old or older. This was changed to 35 years and then to the current 25 years. We want to start preserving cars as early as possible and that was the reason for the change. I think it was the right choice.
  4. Is that a supercharger on the engine in the last picture? Never heard of that option on a '49. Has the Cadillac crest on it.
  5. Your first call or visit should be to Minnesota DMV to find out what your title is and what the number is. In the 1940's either the motor number or body serial number was used on the title. If this was a state issued VIN then the state would attach a state issued VIN number to the body. Anyway, start with DMV. As far as the auction house saying that there is a federal law allowing you to make a plate to match the title, ask them for a copy of the law. I think you will get a "deer in the headlights" look. Title laws are state only and this is BS.
  6. Sounds like you need to look inside the transmission.
  7. If you go ahead with the conversion, document what car everything you use comes from. At some point you or the next owner will need to replace something and you need to know what to ask for at the parts store. Saying that its a '53 Pontiac will no longer work. Also saying you need brake pads for a GM caliper won't work either. Most parts guys can't even look up a part without year, make and model.
  8. I don't think it's the throw out bearing. A bad throw out bearing makes a noise when the clutch is depressed not released. You will need to get under it and see what is going on. I'm thinking something in the clutch linkage let go, because the clutch is still engaged. Nice looking car!
  9. AACA operates at two levels with both National activities and local regional shows. National awards are given only at National shows. The show in ID is a local region show and will not be awarding AACA National awards only local level awards. Our final National show for the year is in Hershey, PA in October. Scroll through the Calendar of Events on the AACA home page and you will find the 2019 National events in bold and clearly call labeled as a National show. Glad you joined us here and hope you will join AACA as well.
  10. Was this Chevy possibly a Packard?
  11. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/1968-riviera-original-tire-info-needed.98024/ This tread indicates that radials (225Rx15) were an option in 1967. You will need to find the documentation from Buick that this was an option. Current judges training states that a P225Rx15 is not the same as a 225Rx15. You may have an uphill battle on this one. If you have P225Rx15's on you car have all the documentation you can find.
  12. I suggest posting this in the Buick Riviera section below. There may be a technical service bulletin that covers a tire change.
  13. When you finish the drive, spray a rag with window cleaner and wipe the bugs off. It will remove the bugs and what will eat into the paint and the wax, but you can rewax.
  14. When a nephew of mine was looking for an old pickup truck at Charlotte AutoFair two years ago, we look at several modified trucks. Each time I asked the seller for a list of the parts that were modified and the source for future replacement. I got "deer in the headlight" stares and no answers. Pass on that one and on to the next one. That Mustang II front end may look great but was it rebuild before it was installed?
  15. The Ford cruise control through 1966 was not a hand throttle. You set the speed desired on the dial, turned the unit on and manually accelerated to that speed. When you reached the selected speed, the unit locked in and held that speed up and down hills. It worked well. You can adjust the speed by adjusting the dial. Touch the brake pedal and it would disengage. To resume, you had to manually accelerate to the lock in speed again. In 1967, it became a little more modern with a button on the end of the turn signal switch to push in to engage. You could hold it part way in to accelerate or all the way in to decelerate. There was not a resume feature until 1969.
  16. I drove this car while owned by the Cofers. They believe in driving their cars. Mr. Cofer insisted that all cars in the collection were ready to start and drive when ever he wanted to take one out, which was often. I hope the new owner does the same.
  17. Invite him to join your AACA region. Each region receives complimentary memberships to AACA to give out.
  18. I'd start with the mechanics to get it drivable first. That way you will have little rewards along the way to your end goal and it will keep you interested in completing the project. The last thing to do is to tear it all apart first as you will likely be overwhelmed by the pile of parts.
  19. I've had the same problem after a complete rebuild including rubber hoses. I used a NOS rear hose, which failed internally, closing off the return of brake fluid. The rear brakes would get hot and tighter with each application of the brakes. Opening a wheel cylinder bleeder would release the pressure. Replacing the hose solved the problem. If you have a single master cylinder, I don't think the master cylinder is the problem if it only happens with the rear brakes.
  20. The judge determines the actual points deducted. The maximum deduction is generally used for an incorrect, missing or no longer fit for its intended purpose. In your case, up to a 5 point deduction could be justified. Whenever a maximum deduction is stated by the judge, the team captain questions the judge about why a maximum deduction is proper and generally validates the deduction before it is taken.
  21. The GM paint code is 13042. Chevrolet also used this color and it was called Mist Blue Poly. Also try here. They ship worldwide. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/
  22. I agree with Matt's comment above. The deduction for Emission Systems is from 1 to a maximum of 5 points. If the change was required by law, there should be no deduction, but you should have documentation of that and that the car was actually registered in that state to avoid a deduction.
  23. Emission systems carry a deduction of up to a maximum of 5 points, so it should be somewhere between 1 and 5 points.