61polara

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Everything posted by 61polara

  1. Wes, I would start with the basics. Spark plugs and wires and clean the injectors. Check the air filter. I'm assuming the check engine light is not on, since you didn't mention it. If no improvement from these, then move on to the more advanced areas.
  2. Looking back at the parts book, the antennas were all called "skyway" antenna. I blieve this hole in the dash was used with a windshield header antenna. Also available was the cowl mounted antenna in 100" and 66" lengths. There was also a cowl mounted reel type antenna that could be cranked up and down from inside the car. This antenna was also available with an electric motor. I haven't been able to find a picture of the header antenna installation yet, but still looking.
  3. This hole is for a radio antenna option, which mounted on the inside of the windshield. I don't think I've ever seen one as the external antenna was the other radio option. My '42 part book indicates this was part of the skyway radio option. It also list a "Instrument Panel Antenna Hole Plug", available in woodgrain or painted.
  4. Don't know what your usual sources are, but have you contacted the AACA Library, the Philidelphia Free Library Automotive Collection or the Detriot Public Library Automotive Collections. If they have it, they will copy it at reasonable rates.
  5. 61polara

    Judging Question

    I agree with Matt and Susan above. Although the Judges Manual does not directly address an aftermarket vaccum pump, an electric fuel pump on your car would be a mandatory 10 point deduction. So I agree with Susan that the deduction could be at least 5 points. This is too many points to risk when going for your Senior award. I consulted my Holander's Interchange Manual and it appears that both vaccum and electric wipers were available in 1958. There are four different fuel pumps listed for the V8 cars as well, some dependent on if the car had vaccum or electric wipers. You could have the wrong pump on your car. With vaccum wipers, I suspect you should have a combination fuel / vaccum pump. From the interchange manual, the HP engines use a pump that was used into the mid 60's which is not a duel pump. This leads me to wonder if the HP and fuel injected engines required the electric wiper option. I'm not a Chevy expert, just raising some questions on why your wipers may need an electric pump. Matt is correct, you should try to find the cause of the problem and correct it. Good luck on your Senior!
  6. Look at the photos in another post here of a 1917, which appears to have the correct rear window. I don't believe yours is correct, but from a later car.
  7. Number 4 is an aftermarket nock-off of a '61 Dodge deluxe cap. The original Dodge caps have black paint not white. Number 5 is a Dodge cap and nuber 6 is Plymouth.
  8. If you have only driven it twice around the block and are half gallon low on coolant and the temp light flickers, you have a major leak if it was full when you started. The overheating could be causing all your problems. Find where the coolant is going! On these short drives, I don't think its the radiator cap. If it is the radiator cap, you will see coolant spitting from the overflow tube on the radiator when you stop unless the coolent level is to low. ' Fill the radiator to the correct level and start the engine with the cap off. Let it come up to temp. When the engine comes up to the thermostat temp, you should start to see the coolant flowing through the radiator. The engine should not overheat with the cap off at idle. I coolant starts flowing out of the opening, you have a blocked radiator or a lower hose that has collapsed. If you see major air bubles in the coolant after the thermostat has opened, you have a blown head gasket allowing compression gas to enter the cooling system. By the way, my '60 Invicta was the first '60 Buick to receive the AACA Original award! They're geat cars. Never had an overheating problem with it. With the 401 they don't even know they have a Dynaflow behind them. Trust me from experience, find the cause of the overheating first! Let us know what you find.
  9. It's an early household application, not automotive.
  10. For a $35 membership fee he can also have printed proof that he won the award and it will be in his name!
  11. Not '56, '57, '58 or '59. It's earlier '50's.
  12. Search this site for 12 volt conversions and you will find plenty of discussions. Most agree that you are better off staying with 6 volts. You can do a radio work around, your lights will not be brighter with 12 volts on a properly operating 6 volt system and you can walk into most auto parts stores and buy a 6 volt battery off the shelf. Save yourself a lot of problems and stay with the 6 volts. The car will be dependible to take your kids to school in and a lot less trouble to convert your camper to 6 volts than your car.
  13. GM Interior gray per the 1990 SEM color chip book is 15BN Med Slate Gray. SEM No. 4458
  14. There may be a strainer/filter on the pick-up tube in the tank. Drop the tank, clean it out and put in a new sending unit which includes the fuel pick up. I had this problem on a '57 Buick and it drove me nuts until I figured out the problem. It would run great for 15 minutes and then shut down. Wait 30 minutes and it would start and run great for another 15 minutes. The rust in the tank would take 15 minutes to clog the tank trainer and after 30 minutes enough would fall off to let the car run for another 15 minutes.
  15. Dennis Carpenter has them listed for $7.00 each (B6A-13007). Download his catalog for '57-'59 Ford and you may find many other things you need. Call and talk to them and see if this is the correct headlight. Check other Ford and Thunderbird vendors as well. Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts
  16. The correct procedure is to wash in kerosene, let dry and then dip in 50 weight oil. Can you post a photo of your current filter?
  17. Thomas, I would research this further before you spend big bucks for something wrong. In AACA it won't matter as long as they match and are not haligens. Other clubs are much more specific in their requirements. Westinghouse was generally a replacement brand. I know in the '60's Ford products all used a Ford script headlight bulb. I don't know about '57, but there should be some Ford specialty sites that can provide you the answer.
  18. Consider HPOF if it is a mostly original car.
  19. I've checked a '41-'48 Chrysler shop manual and there is no mention of routine lubrication of the top screws. The main difference in this system (Town & Country) any your system seems to be the earlier cars used two electric motors, one on each screw. Yours appears to have one motor driving both screws through cables. The old grease in the drive and gear sets is most likely hard and should be cleaned out and replaced. The screws are covered in a canvas boot to keep the grease in and water out. I took them out of my '42 DeSoto several years ago because one side was not working. I found that water had gotten in the gear unit from the motor and screw and rusted. Cleaned it out, put in new grease and it works great. The units are not difficult to remove but you have to remove the rear seat and side panels. I don't remember exactly what lub I used, but I think it was a wheel bearing grease in the drive unit and a white lub on the screws.
  20. Jim, don't give up on AACA quite yet. If you have looked at the judging manual you will see that it is very general. The AACA judging is based on the owner having researched the restoration and restored the car correctly based on his research. If your car is restored to TRIFive standards, then it should have no problem in AACA judging. The AACA judges will ask for documentation only in cases when something looks out of order. If you plan on showing the car in a national Chevy only show, then you need to restore to their standards and you will do well at an AACA show. As AACA accepts all vehicles manufactured from the beginning through 1987, we can not publish specific restoration guidelines on each and every car. That is up to the owner to research. Our judging guidelines are built around the idea that every owner drives on to the show field with a 400 point car restored correctly as it was built by the factory. The judges are looking for areas that they believe are not correct restoration. In areas of possible major deductions, the judge team captan will discuss the deduction with the owner and give an opportunity for the owner to provide documentation that the item in question is factory correct. After the show, you can write and request a copy of the judging form for your car. The point deduction will not be shown, but it will show you the areas where points were deducted. In most cases, you will know exactly what the points were deducted for on your car. You know the car better than any one else. I took the time to find out who CCI is and looked at the documentation material that they have available. They have many factory documents reproduced. If you follow those manuals you should be in good shape for judging. AACA accepts reproductions of factory manuals as documentation of any area questioned. And from a non-judging standpoint, always remember that your restored car is the trophy, not the thing you put on the shelf!
  21. Your are going after this the right way by finding out the guidelines you will be judged against. If you are doing a restoration to factory standards, following the CCI restoration manuals, you should have little problem in AACA judging. AACA only accepts factory documents or reproductions of them to document any item in question. Find an AACA region near you and join it. Become a judge for our National shows. You will make some great friends along the way.
  22. From the 1920 sales info. I agree, the dash appears to be metal. Any 1920 or 1921 owners have any input?
  23. Based on the evaluation sheet, the Original needs to have more areas of originality than the HPOF criterial. The evaluation sheet is available on this site in the 2012 Judges Manual. The older the car the less difference between the HPOF and HPOF Original.