DAVES89

IPC replacement is one of the easier repairs. The trim piece is held in place by four tabs. Grasp the trim piece from the inside edges being sure you also have the plastic backing and pull slightly. Then do the lower corners the same way. Alternate this several times until the trim piece is off. The IPC is held in place by 4 small hex screws. Use the correct size socket [i believe 1/4 or 9/32] and remove screws. Grab the IPC on either side and rock back and forth until it releases from eletrical socket. You can try cleaning the connection with contact cleaner, but my experience says it is no longer good. I have some for sale [pm me]if you are interested.

I am also sending Jim and email as I have IPC's to sell. As of yet it has not come back undeliverable.

I have been buying it for the last year on ebay's "buy it now" only. In the part of the ebay ad to contact the seller I write that I am buying for resale only. It works and it is also true. I don't have the r-12 hose, but my a/c certified mechanic friend does, so I pay him to install it.

You will need both the freon and the special fill hose. Ebay is where I have been buying mine. The problem is that now the price is going up,because of warmer outside temperatures. R-134 and the correct hose is still fairly easy to get. The r-12 is the hard one to get. The first question is are you sure you need to charge your unit. The CRT will tell you that you need to charge your system, but the seems to happen when it is still below 70 degrees outside temperature. Try clearing the codes by pressing the "off" and "warm" keys and going thru the prompts to clear the codes.

I bought my Reatta with 113000 miles on it in Dec/06. The crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer had been replaced. I did the coil upgrade last summer at about 125000 miles. If you are worried about it I would do it, as well as the radiator hoses and the surpentine belt. Then you should have less to worry about.

There is a red/tan '88 for sale on ebay. Anybody bidding? I live about 200 miles away and would be interested in bidding if no one else wants it.It's in Illinois.Has a blown tranny, bad headliner, a couple of rust spots,blown brake lines, and a dent or two.

Every man should have a momento of something from their father. My father died when I was a teenager and I have his watch. There is nothing more special then having something they valued. Good for you that you have the car and that you value it.

When I purchased my '89 I had my mechanic friend replace all the gaskets he could get to. We also did all the hoses. The lttle ones that steak referred to were bulging and ready to blow. I would follow his lead and check them all. Ronnies idea is also great.

Same as always. Go to todays post about the IPC not working. He listed it there.

Riveria? We don't help with no stinkin Riverias! [Just kidding] With 325 posts I am sure you have helped a few along the way. BTW Rivs make excellant parts cars! lol

The problem I had with my ABS light staying on was bad sensor leads to the front wheels. Take a look at yours and if the insulation is peeling off that would be the direction I would go. If you can get to a u-pick yard, look for a Cadillac with the same ABS leads. I believe early '90s. The ones with the Teves brake system is the one with leads that work. Helpful hint... People always leave the hood up on these cars, just look for the acumulater ball. The lead unsnaps in the engine compartment. To get it off by the wheel, take some lubricant spray and some prying tools. It is basically a press fit. Be careful. Otherwise e-mail Jim Finn. He has them.

There are 3 relays Fuel Realy has 4 wires pink/black,dark green/white,gray, black/white. ABS Main Relay has 5 wires ABS Pump Relay has 4 wires

Well put Howard!

First thing I do when A/C stops working is clear the codes. It has always then come back on after that. I do not know how to clear codes on a 90/91

Agreed!

Mace is spelled rong it is spelled mak. dummy lol

Just yesterday I ran my A/C and at 69 degrees outside temp and everything was fine. When the temp dropped to 66 degrees outside the warning low coolant came on. My advice would be to reset the codes and run A/C at above 70 degrees outside temperature. At least that is what I am doing.

Regarding the windows. You probably need new motors. A number of posters have claimed that the window units are all gunked up. There is a tutorial about that. Try the search part of this forum. The touch screen, you can start by cleaning the contacts. That may work.

Turn off the climate control. Then press the off and warm buttons at the same time. Then follow the prompts.

Went to a different u-pick yard today. Found an '89 Riv that had the CRT, cassette deck and both lights/wiper pods removed. They left behind the IPC. Drivers window was down partially and the drivers door latch removed so door would not close. I grabbed the dirty/dusty IPC and gave the guy $10.00 for it. Took it home sprayed contact cleaner on the connections and cleaned it up with plastic cleaner. Plugged it in,closed the door and watched the "light show". Every thing worked!

Sorry, I have an '89 and spoke about what worked for me. The '88 does not have twilight sentinal.

I just wanted this to stay up near the top. I also see a lot more model years and state addresses on the postings... Thanks!

Forgive me for appearing slowwww. Are you saying that you can install the Caddy radio brain and still keep the equalizer look on the crt? What amp do you recommend and where does that get installed? What aftermarket speakers are we talking about?

From what you are posting the console lights up during the "light show", but not either the headlight or wiper switch pods. That is the nice thing about "the show", it is a self test designed into the car and tells/shows you what works and what doesn't. If it lights up during the show it works if it doesn't it's broke.So you may have to replace both pods. Either at night or when it is dark turn on your lights. If nothing [headlight/wiper pods and console]lights up,I believe it would be the photocell located on the top middle of your dash that is bad. There is a tutorial about that under my posts back on 8/29/2007.

Nic, I went with last years rate in my post. I won't worry about anything but keeping track of my miles. My accountant will tell me next year what the rate is for 2008. It is possible that the IRS will change the rate based on how expensive gas gets.