DAVES89

Read the next paragraph that talks about a cold beer and interested Reatta owners and judging. Maybe no trophys to hand out, but what are you after?

On 6/7 Barney said he would judge...

Cause he also went to the hard button diagnostics. I knew that he knew how to pull them I just wanted him to go back and clear and start over.

Finally the voice of reason! Young married guy still in the military and trying to buy a house. Thanks Daniel! As Dragline said in Cool Hand Luke, "Where is all you high rollers" 10 days and it is all over.

Pressing the "hard" button [lower far right button] for systems checking will only get you what the warning would be if you had a problem that popped up on the screen. Do not use that for problems as it will always tell you that you have problems. I think you should start over. Go to the climate screen. Press and release the "off" button. Then press and hold both the "off" and "warm" keys at the same time until it goes into diagnostics.Pree "yes" until you get "clear codes?" Do that for the BCM,ECM,CRT. Then start car and see if warning comes up. If it does go back into diagnostics and write down what codes come up and report back. The only codes you should get will have a "C" behind it designating Current. By the way look at your coil pack to see if you have any goo coming out the bottom. If so your coil pack needs replacing. You can get a good working one out of the junkyard. If it is bad you would be well served doing the Pdgett upgrade.

I do not have paypal and am not too sophisticated regarding computers and setting stuff up. If someone who is well known to the forum, and has paypal to collect the money, and is interested in helping, I am willing to talk to them.

First off "history" means you no longer have to worry about it. It is telling you that at one time it was current. Did you have any ECM codes? Does your red "service engine soon" light work? That bulb being burned out, I don't believe, will not trip a code, but will trip the "Engine Controls Problem Detected" If you have no active codes [and it doesn't appear that you do] I would start there.

Reatamanz what is the shipping cost to 54952 zipcode? How much does each shock weigh? Regarding shipping cost to people interested in buying, lets see what my shipping cost is. Then I will tell you what your shipping cost will be. I am doing this in the public part of this forum so everyone can see that I am not in this to rip anyone off. I am learning as we are going. I am doing this as a convienance for all parties that are interested... but I am not interested in being out $300.00 - $500.00 either. So lets guess at freight to me of $250.00 Now my cost is $1750.00 [parts and freight] If we could change the commitment from the field [you guys] to 50 units [i would then have my original investment back, including my shipping cost]then shipping to you COULD be; 1 shock $3.00 3 shocks $5.00 5 shocks Free The shipping would be to one location. We are sitting on 18 verbal shock commitments and that is from only 6 guys. We only need 32 more to be sold. Disclaimer I am not wealthy and have a job like anyone else. I just want to help those who have helped me in the last 18 months. This deal can be taken over by anyone who wants to. Time is limited and we need to act. I will "bump" this post for 10 days. We know the deal ends on 7/1/2008. I need the money by 6/25 to get Reatamanz the money by 7/1 so he can order the parts. Please decide soon.

Good question Nic and I will clarify. I will buy all 100 shocks at $15.00 ea. That is $1500.00.I will sell them as people want them. However I will not order unless I get both a commitment and checks totaling 40 shocks at $35.00.[i am sorry for the quantity change but I was in a hurry this morning and used my head and not my calculater.] If you do the math you will see that I would only be out $100.00 with 60 yet to sell, but that also means I get to sit on being out $100.00 and hoping someone comes along wanting to buy. Once again the offer still stands,that if anyone wants to take the deal over they are welcome. This part is obsolete and the best we will be able to do in the future is get a used one if we pass this up.

I will listen to Ronnies advice. The offer is amended as follows. I need to hear from anyone interested in buying the shocks. I will go thru with ordering if I have a total of 30 shocks from any combination of forum members. Just reading back over the posts on this topic we have 18 shocks wanted. Of course I realize that the original price was $15.00. I believe this is a one time/limited time only offer, so if you are sincere please PM me with how many you want. I will keep this post informed as to where we stand with getting to the 30 sold. Remember coupled with your post is the willingness to PREPAY. A commitment to order without a cashiers check is not acceptable. If anyone else wants to take this deal over and want to sell for less, please step up now. In order to be fair to Reatamanz I must have the checks by 6/25 so I can pay him prior to 7/1. Thank you.

I am not rich by any means, but I would be interested in buying all 100 if I could then sell them back on the forum at say $40.00. I would offer a prebuy special at say $35.00 for any one interested. I would have to have money orders in hand prior to placing the order with Reatamanz to get the special price. I do not see any other way that this would get done. Any interest?

I believe Jim Finn has a used good working pump. He has always been reasonable. I don't have his e-mail address. [i cleared out a bunch of stored e-mail addresses and by mistake his was one]

Looks like I'll be the only red/tan there. Most common color and year. Is that possible?

RONNIE, ONCE EVERYONE FIGURES OUT WHAT IS ON YOUR WEBSITE IT WILL BE LIKE THE MAYTAG REPAIRMAN AROUND HERE!

I bought mine at Advance. No real shortcut. Strut has to be removed to replace. Check the various parts houses for best prices. Also for the Mazda sunroof price info, you could probably call the local Mazda dealer. He should have the price.

Well I always liked Pong...

I would rent a storage unit and expect the son to pay for it. It is his car and this is another step toward manhood and growing into responsibility. If he does nothing, you do nothing. His own mother pretty much said the same thing by not wanting to give up her garage.

I just replaced my dogbone. Cost was less then $20.00 and takes less then 10 minutes to do. What I have found with mine is that all the vibration caused the mount to the engine to come loose. Be sure to check that and tighten as needed.

Or rent a U-Haul and a 2 wheel car dolly and doing it yourself. The advantage this way is you have roadside service and no wear n tear on your equipment.

With the cars of our vintage, it will be more likely that the front wheel sensors are bad. What happens is the insulation goes bad and moisture gets into the cable, causing a false reading of failure. The sensors and leads are on one molded cable and can be replaced. You can buy them from Jim Finn or if you are so motivated, go to a u-pick yard and do it youself. It is not very difficult. It is a snap electrical connection on top, but you must pry it out of the hub bracket down by the wheel. If you call a salvage yard to pull for you they are more likely to sell you the hub assembly with the leads attached. As Reattas are so scarce I just go to the Cadillac section of the u-pick yard and look for 88-90 DeVilles, Eldorado, Fleetwood,Seville. Just look under the hood for the accumulater ball and it will have the right leads.

What has been advised by Daniel on a previous post, is to replace the power steering cooler with the transmission cooler out of a Ford Probe. I have been out to a salvage yard to look at one and I agree that it would work better. It is a bit bigger and has fins on it. Mine is in good condition and I don't see a need to replace it as yet. Gregg I think, misread your post and started talking about a tranny cooler. I firmly believe in those. I installed one and hung it on the power steering cooler. The reason I installed one is because the Reatta is set up to run hot, too hot in many forum members opinion. The high range of the radiator before the fans kick on are, in my opinion, too close to the high heat limit of the transmission fluid, and as the transmission fluid is located in the side panel of the radiator this could cause a premature breakdown of the transmission. The reason why I located it on the power steering cooler is that the cooler is a solid mount and it is in a "open" area where you will get maximum cooling. Something to think about, but going into the hot time of the year, I believe worthwhile.

When you start to have brake light/brake issues very seldom do the lights go out while driving. The only exception I can think of is the brake sensors. They may help the light [amber] go back out. I have not heard of the red light going back out while driving. At any rate, good that you are at home. Do not drive the car until you have both diagnosed and replaced the "bad" parts. With the "hard" brake pedal stopping is severly diminished. Go to www.Reatta.net and take the brake test. Then report back with your results. Do not be disheartened, most of us upon purchasing our cars have found some "gotchas" that were not disclosed by the previous owner. If you keep the mindset that you are now a hobbyist with a rare car the initial money you spend will be easier to take. B&TM is right Jim Finn should have the pressure switch and the accumulater [iMHO] should be bought new. At any rate welcome to the forum and post some pictures of your new ride. BTW if you change your profile to include your city/state you might find a fellow enthusist in your area. Or at least advise you on a mechanic for some of the harder repairs you might run into.

Just yesterday I took my "A" pillar off. [Hit it with my head,BUT it had been broken before] The top bracket was broken. I took a push in connector similar to the black one in Barney's picture except it had a big flat head. What I did was cut it into a square to fit in what was left of the groove, snapped it in place and it locked in fine. Desperation the mother of invention

Must be an '88 thing as my '89 doesn't have it to the best of my knowledge.

Many times Reatta sellers are preaching to the choir. I like most others,have but one Reatta and really are not looking for a second one. I am looking for a 88/89 red/tan that I can part out. There is one in Il. that is on ebay, but he wants $1000.00 for it which is about $500.00 to much.