TRivownr

Members
  • Content Count

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About TRivownr

  • Rank
    Member
  1. I don't know this for 100%, but my recollection is that this is an analog system and isn't as accurate as the later computer controlled systems. I do not think there is an adjustment.
  2. I would like to know what color it was inside and out and which hubcaps it had. I have an original 1/25 scale AMT 64 Riviera which I would like to restore like Mr. Nimoy's. I did some checking online and the Buick agency he bought it from is no more.
  3. Most auto parts stores should be able to get these for you. If all else fails, check Rock Auto.com. They have both of them in stock.
  4. The transmission Mounts have failed on my 85, which allowed a tranny bolt to rub a hole in my downpipe. I have new transmission mounts but don't see a procedure in the factory manual that explains how to do this. It appears to me the only way to do it is to pull the inner fenders and that the outer fenders will have to be removed to do that. Is this correct? Phil Cooley 1985 Riviera T Type ROA #7446
  5. OK guys and gals... . This one has me stumped. My 85 T Type has been primarily sitting for 12+ years. About a year ago I decided I needed to get her back on the road. Replaced the MAF and was able to get her to start and idle reliably. However, I found when I was cruising and let off the gas and then feathered the throttle it would backfire. But if I gave it more gas the backfire went away. Did some troubleshooting and indications were I needed a new ignition coil. I had already swapped over to an 86/87 style, so ordered a new AC Delco coil and ignition module. Had to replace the ignition module connector, too (thankfully Casper's Electronics carries the right one). But in replacing the ignition module connector I mixed up two wires and the car wouldn't start. Eventually I figured that out and got everything wired correctly, but it still wouldn't start. Did more troubleshooting with the Factory Service Manual and figured out I had a bad ECM (probably caused by my wire swapping fisaco). Anyway, I put a different ECM in it today and it fired right up. BUT, the backfire is still there. I'm thinking I have either a timing or fuel delivery problem. Given that this car's ignition timing is electronically controlled, I'm inclined to think its a fuel delivery problem. But I don't really know. What ideas do you have?
  6. I'm going to look at a '95 Aurora tomorrow. It has 118,000 miles. Any quirks or weaknesses I should be aware of? Phil Cooley
  7. I hadn't been on here in a while. It was good to see you guys' posts... . Throttle body plate is clean, as is the IAC passage. IAC is new. O2 sensor is several years old but has less than 200 miles. It looks like I'm getting decent O2 readings on my Turbolink scanner. I have replaced all of the vacuum lines, but it's been a while--I need to double check for vacuum leaks. I haven't replaced the EGR, so I've ordered one from Rock Auto. I should have it by Saturday, which is when I'll be working on the Riv again. Wish me luck!
  8. My 85 T Type bogs/hesitates/stalls until it gets warmed up. I have tried to set the idle and IAC using my Turbolink scanner. I am not getting anywhere. Before I go any farther, are the idle adjustment and IAC adjustment done via the same screw on top of the throttle body, just below the vacuum lines? Or is there another adjustment screw that I am missing completely? :confused: I'm attaching a pic of the screw in question. Phil Cooley
  9. After searching several auto recyclers, I finally found the switch I needed at our local Pull and Pay. I found it in a 1988 Caprice. There were about a half dozen mid-to-late 80s Cadillacs, an 85 Toronado, an 86 Paresienne, and 4 mid to late 80s Caprices in the yard. The only one with the switch I needed was that 88 Caprice (and I did check them all). I put the switch in my Riviera and had 4 of the 6 functions. So, I carefully took the switch apart. I found the two directions that didn't work were hampered by dirt--the contacts were literally held apart by it. I cleaned out the dirt and relubed it with the excess of the original grease. I put the switch back together and everything works, now! BTW, I took the original switch apart again--I had reassembled the electrical contacts backwards.
  10. I have continuity when the switch is apart, but not when it's snapped back together, which is frustrating. Each of the removable copper pieces has two possible positions. However, I don't see any difference in the function, no matter their position.
  11. I did mine about a year ago and yes, you do have to remove the dash to fix it. If you can't/won't do it yourself, figure it'll cost you 4 to 5 bills ($400-500).
  12. The several functions of my driver's side power seat weren't working, so I took the switch apart to clean it. I was able to do that, but now nothing is working. Has anyone else had one of these apart? Are there any tricks in reassembling it? I've included a few photos for clarity. Sorry, the third one is a little out of focus. Phil Cooley ROA 7446 85 Riviera T Type
  13. Hey guys, on another message board I frequent a guy is asking the bore spacing of the Buick small and big blocks. Anyone know off the top of your head (or know where to look?) Phil Cooley ROA 7446
  14. Thanks for the tip--I checked out the % Gloss thread--it was very helpful. Phil
  15. Should the inner fenders on a 70 Wildcat be glossy black, semi-gloss black or body color? Phil Cooley:confused: