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tad27's Achievements

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  1. The car that we are working on belongs to one of my friends so I don't know much about it. His car is a 6 but I would think the tank which is factory installed inside the truck would be the same on either. The sending/fuel pickup unit is mounted on the side of the tank about 2/3 up from the bottom. That would be on the right or passenger side of the car. Same side as the fill neck.
  2. I am wanting to buy a fuel tank sending unit for a 1972 Mercury Capri. NOS or in good working condition. Please call Tom @ 615-830-4369 (no text please) or email tdowling@charter.net .
  3. Thanks for the renewed interest in these fenders but I sold them some time ago. Sorry !!!!!!!
  4. I have had this old pickup for several years and am too old and tired to fool with it. The truck starts, drives and stops. I have converted the alternator and starter to 12 volt and it has a new gas tank and a external electric fuel pump. I believe the rest of the mechanical is original. I have all of the sheetmetal except the rear fenders, tailgate, and splash panels. I also do not have the seat and the cab wood is missing. I am asking $4250.00 or best offer. Don't be afraid to make me a low offer. I'll be happy to tell you if it is stupid. However, any reasonable offers will be considered and I might just take it. Call me, Tom, or email if you have any questions. My number is 615-830-4369 e-mail is tdowling@charter.net. 7-21-13 I'm lowering the price to $3400.00 OBO
  5. The 36 chevy truck may work for me if it is the tall cab. Where are you located. Email me at tdowling@charter.net or call 615-830-4369
  6. I would like to buy a 35 chevy pickup cab with the wood still in it. I have my rolling chassis running now and am looking for a good cab to continue with the restoration.
  7. I looking to buy a 37 chevy pickup radiator shroud for my 37 2 door sedan. Can anyone tell me if they are the same?
  8. Do you have any pics of what your selling by itself. I can't tell much about the rear of the frame. Also could you tell where your located.
  9. Thanks for the input. I had to get the pickup back together so I could rearrange some things so I took the shoes off and put the rear end back together without them. I also discovered that one of the front shoe assemblies had been remove by a previous owner. So I have one working brake but I will sand the rear shoes down and try to get the parts freed up as you have suggested. Parts are so difficult to find for this pickup that I'm about to give up and go the hot rod route. Thank you for your help. I do appreciate it. Tom
  10. I'm trying to put new rear brakes on a very rusted rear end. I have the shoes installed but they are too open to allow the drum to slide over them. I am following some instructions I found in old-carberators.com. They say to loosen the centralizer bolt "C" and tap it up and down to free the centralizer ????. I don't find a bolt "C" in the location they show. I have removed the adjusting screw "E" completely but that seems to not help at all. The brake cam bolt seems to be locked to the cam lever on the outside of the back plate but I think there should be some movement between the two when I have the adjusting screw completely out. Is it just rusted together or are the two keyed together? Should there be a centralizer bolt that I'm not seeing? Any help out there would be appreciated. Tom :confused:
  11. This leads to a lot of questions. Are the fenders still there and what condition? Does it have the original frame under it? Is the transmission, front axle assy, and rearend original? Are the gauges there? How good is the wood structure in it? Based on the info given, your asking for a price on a "pig-in-a-poke" wheither for the hot rodder or restorer. Sooo, my guess is $1000 to $1500 tops if your buyer doesn't have to travel far to get it. There may be that much in parts but it wouldn't be worth more than that to me without more information. By the way, I have an old chevy hot rod and an old chevy restoration. My guess is based on thinking hot rodder and/or restorer.
  12. Hello Pat, Thanks for the input. Could you tell me what there is about these that the 34 master does or doesn't have? I appreciate any info I can get. Tom
  13. Thanks for the feed back, Vila. I'm beginning to believe that the 33, 34, & 35 master rear fenders are all the same.
  14. The best I can do is tell you that a 35 chevy standard coupe is 14 feet bumper to bumper. The down side is that it is the shortest of all the 35 cars. If you get no other input, I would guess that the 35 master 4 door is no more than 2 feet longer. Don't forget that you will need some room in the front of the trailer to get in and tie down yhe front of the car.
  15. I'm looking for early chevy pickup door hinges. I only need the half that is mounted to the "A" pillar but will take the entire hinges. There are 3 hinges per door and I need enough for both doors. Also need the cross tie rod and two stiffener plates inside the radiator shell. They interface with the headlight brackets which tie to the front fender braces. I believe these are also used on the chevy master and standard cars. Update: Thanks for the help everyone. I found them on another site.
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