Steve_Mack_CT

Anyone know if the later Model T fan (larger pulley, blades screw into hub vs, rivets) assy. will work in a brass radiador vs. black radiator car? Not so concerned with authenticity but found a nice later assembly. I already know the mounting bracket will need to be changed. THANKS Steve

Roberto, this is a "soft lead" or educated guess, but could it be he initials of Doc Powers who I understand ran a museum in Southington, CT (before my time) in the late 50s - early 60s? There has been discussion on this somewhere in this forum. If I can think of the name of the museum or provide any additional details will share them. Seal Cove is on our vist list for later this year!

+1 on Guy's reply, who also gave me some great "T" advice not too long ago. That and all those wonderful finds - a real master!!

Dave I have a "T" now although I have never driven one!! I had a ride in a friends a few years ago and have seen a couple videos. Will likely teach myself in the neighborhood as we are in an area I can do that with... I need to get this car together as another regular here is considering a T and I told him he is welcome to drive this one if he wants. The chassis is essentially done with the exception of a couple engine accesories like timer and coils, and the "Emergency" or parking brakes need to be rebuilt - will do that before we leave the yard! Restorer how did it go??

That event is begging to be forever preserved through the magic of the cell phone video and YouTube....

Seeker, any recourse with the appraiser? While I believe in the process I also think these guys are just like any other contractors - just like the person you hire to do work on your house (which we have been doing a bit of this Spring) - you get good ones, terrible ones and a lot of mediocre ones - the great ones are few and far between as most people don't treat work they do for others the same way they would on their own home or car. I may get flack for this but I believe it to be true. Your guy likely went down a checklist and maybe even relied too much on the other guy with him if he was there to help as a marque expert - but if he was not being paid for his expertise, or even if he was but is not a pro appraiser, he may have looked at the inspection as a fun afternoon activity but not as having an engagement with a fiduciary duty to the client. I have friends who have done long distance purchases regularly without a personal inspection but I would have a hard time doing that personally.

David I agree with your assessment. I would have been interested in this but the full fendered T Speedster is close enough conceptually unless this is really close to CT and priced realistically. Did you happen to see the nice red '10 Hup runabout Jessie Morton displayed in the Choc field a few years ago at Hershey? He and the car are local to me and I understand it was a pretty easy restoration, especially for a pro - he likened to "a giant model" - but apparently the T will run away from either of these cars. I would think having plans from a "plan car" would be a big help. I think the Hups bring a little more but it would be cool to rescue an old timer like that for sure. Hope the OP comes back with some more info and pics.

Good luck on the Chrysler or whatever you pursue bln!! FWIW I think the Chrysler is around $10K underpriced now but still sitting @ $ 22,700 as of a few minutes ago. Your a winner anywhere under $35K on that one, IMHO. Al, I agree with your comments completely. Non Model A cars of the same vintage can present some hassle in terms of keeping 'em on the road (at least relative to an "A" ) and unless a hot brand, can take longer to sell. I could see us getting another "A" - I like roadsters, wife likes pick ups. I am not sure how well I would fit in a pickup as I understand they are tight. We used this logic in the selection of a "T" for the speedster build vs. a larger chassis which may have been cool, but perhaps next time.. The "T" I can get anything for, and it is simple/small enough/documented enough in terms of repair guides, etc. that I can actually build the car largely at home. Update: Chrysler sold for $24,699 IMO, a great buy.

Great lines on these little cars. Saw this the other day and was hoping the OP was going to come on back with a little more info. As noted elsewhere in this forum, there does seem to be a few of these surviving which is interesting. I wonder if the sporting style has something to do with that.

Mercer, if one is willing to look at "off brands" I do think you can save a lot of money - heck you can find some larger non Ford stuff for "Model A Money", even in a more desirable body style than a sedan which OP I think is less interested in. As of this AM that Chrysler coupe has 3 hours or so to go and I believe bidding is at $22,700, of course the last 10 minutes are what will matter. In any event anything under $30K or so for a big coupe like that ready to roll sure seems like a sound deal to me. Bear in mind that budget is a relative thing, this example is expensive compared to an "A" for example, but could represent a LOT of car for the money compared to a Packard of the same year.

I am thinking this would likely fit the bill, depending on where it goes from here in the next few hours: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Royal-CD-1931-chrysler-coupe-cd-8-/171299940758?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27e245a996&item=171299940758&pt=US_Cars_Trucks The Model "A" talk reminded me of my '30 tudor, plenty of room in there (once in) for the "portly shirt cut" guy - with the seat moved back. Forward, I would get the famous "Model A smile" or black ring on the gut of your shirt from the steering wheel - meaning: 1) Model A drivers are happy people 2) Time for a new steering wheel 3) Some of us could stand to skip the burgers and dogs at the next meet...

Mitch, thanks for your efforts - a great website! As a new "T" owner, I am finding always things to learn, my other prewar cars were very advanced by comparison!! Downloaded a couple of things which will help me as we set up the ignition in particular, as I used borrowed equipment to check out the engine back when we bought the car. Even though these are simple they are different enough so a little guidance goes a long way! Keep up the good work & cool to see a young guy who likes the old iron!

"LMAO" as they say, David! I wonder if any these guys could gain an advantage by attempting a hot start & avoiding the crank - a big gamble but look at the potential pay off!! Thanks for posting!!

This is one of those issues that perhaps a well worded inquiry to the right people in PA at least may be all it takes. Between Hershey and the multiple Carlisle events taking place in Central PA, I would think showing the hobby some kindness might make sense, the dollars injected into the local economy has to be significant. So the issue is commercial/combo plates and type of tow vehicle? Or just another example of hassle that can take place state to state more likely?

Thanks Guy & Bob also for the info on this! Age old lesson re-taught last week, when working on a project don't hesitate to mention it to whoever you can. Dad's coffee buddies so far have turned this head (if it works out, who knows but we are pursuing) and a nice speedster tank from a guy we had no idea was ever involved in "T"s -.

Guys, what are the approximate values for these units from say Rajo and Frontenac - or any others? I may have a line on one, make unknown as it has been in a basement for many decades. No details on make yet. This from someone we don't want to take advantage of so at this point a ballkpark on these would be helpful, I have seen a lot of these setups on the various forums, but not too many units available and priced. Thanks

Have to comment on this as I was tracking this car yesterday - what a great car! I was not surprised someone stepped up on the very reasonable asking price of $10K - for a solid coupe with rebuilt mechanicals. Nice features on this one including golf bag door, R/S, etc. FWIW I like the single or in this case dual spares on rear as much as sidemounts. Very attractive car, local, and glad it sold as I would have been in a deep, agonizing discussion with the banker @ home last night if it made it through the first day on eBay unsold...

West, while I cannot say with 100% certainty I can say with 90% certaintly that the tach appeared in the full line 1939 accy. catalog, I sold the peice to forum member "Packard Lover" I believe, perhaps he will confirm if he sees this.

Hey A.J. - I have also seen on more pedestrian Packards of the era. I confess that I totally missed the tach on your dad's car largely due to all of the other interesting elements aboard competing for attention such as carb and intake set up, etc. etc. and so on...

Tach was definately available in '39, I suspect for all levels, replacing clock on glove box door. I am not sure how the drive for the tach would work with glove box as I assume mechanical and not electric but they were offered. I believe this is in the full line accy. catalog for '39 - I had one (catalog not tach, but I have seen at least one in a car) but sold it as we sold the Packard a while back. Not sure why recent poster linked to this old thread which is more general in nature on price trends, etc. but it was kind of interesting to skim through it again a few years down the road. To my knowledge, the predictions of a huge price drop from a few years ago have yet come to pass, and I guess the current predictions may end up that way as well?

Hello all. Once again posting the dates for our (40th, I believe) annual Central Connecticut AACA chapter Spring Meet. Many of the people on this forum have helped us make this a great meet, and I think, one of the better ones in the area for drawing prewar cars as well. Please mark June 8 on your calendars, with rain date June 22nd. I will post the flyer soon and hope to have some information on features to share as well. Thanks and looking forward to seeing many of you again this year.

Thanks guys, Jeff next trip out to your shop would love to know if that is the same product David and Restorer speak of. I am off to a pretty good start as the gent who made the "body" is a talented woodworker, surfaces are in nice, undamaged shape as this thing sat in dry storage. Going to post my progress in the Speedster section but in the planning/equipment purchasing stages now. Since my frame of reference on paint goes back to the 80s I have a lot to learn as I understand materials and techniques have changed drastically. I am also checking into a product called "Slick sand" to build up surface on some chassis components that still need painting and assembly - I hear that is easier to do these days? In any event, the more I can understand from folks with practical experience in addtiion to reading is really helpful. If it comes out good enough I am hoping I may be able to slip in under the radar with the "real" brass cars!

Sorry Lahti no info, but how did you make out with the place in upstate NY?? HE had a couple nice cars on his site, the Kissal in particular - would make a heck of a speedster...

The wording in Restorer's post #40 just made me think of this story - A friend wrenched for Porsche/Audi in the mid 80s. The have a guest tech from Germany in for a couple weeks, with limited English. Of course, the first thing he does is review the bulletin board which has a prominent sign "Safetey Glasses Must Be Worn In The Shop At All Times. For Additional Safety Rules, See Below" his first question of the day "Who is this Below"?? OK, back to the topic, I can only think of a couple of at home restorations going on now, they were relatively common back in the 70s and even into the 80s. Re-experiencing that was a big driver for the latest project. Our region has not done a garage tour in three years for that reason - gotta give them a reason to come on over I guess...

Agree with Curti, they will no doubt help someone out. Would help you and supplier to know if they are all the same or different, even if you cannot identify. If it is a lot of the same, it is more likely a common car, perhaps Ford T, for example. If different, you may have some unusual ones in there, however vendor will need to figure that out. I think, for a lot of any type of part that is unidentified but in good condition, I would not expect big dollars. My experience with vendors has been they want to pay less than 50% of retail in the best of circumstances, and 10 - 20 cents on the dollar is likely more realistic. Or you can do the research and sell to the end users yourself, another option. If you sell to a vendor as suggested at least you put a few bucks in pocket, help clear out your dad's stuff a bit and get them back into circulation, I just would not expect big bucks for your find. Try posting an ad up here for the bunch, you may get a bite as a lot of these guys do sell. The HCCA site may be another option for you.