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Everything posted by chetbrz

  1. It takes a lot of time and patience to redo all the wood pieces. At least you have more original wood than I had. Check out the link to my restoration online diary. Full Project
  2. Thanks for the info. I used Hidem Welt since I couldn't come up with the appropriate aluminum trim. See attached picture: Rain Channel over the doors.
  3. I hope so. 🤞 The car wouldn't sit right without the front axle.
  4. You know I contemplated cutting a notch in the bushings but decided to give the axel to the drive line shop which is right here in town. I applaud your creative solution. Great job.
  5. Thanks Don for your words of wisdom. I do have the spare tire locking part. Thanks for asking. Chet
  6. Hi Don, After much aggravation I think your suggestion is right on the money. I decided after trying the best I could to remove the bushings. I removed the driver's side wheel assembly and dropped the axel out of the car. I will bring the new parts and axel to the drive line shop tomorrow. While trying to remove the bushing the the puller explored a harden steel nut. I probably should have doubled up on the top nut but surrendered instead. I figured I gave it a good try. In the event I did get the bushings out I didn't want to damage the new parts because I didn't have the r
  7. Well these King Pins have lasted 90 years. I think when they designed the 28/29 they might have figured that 90 years was the life of the car. The pivot shaft had little to know wear. The bottom brass bushing had the most wear. Getting out the locking pin is the hard part of this job, as stated earlier. Thanks for the pictures. I think I'm good from this point forward. Hopefully get back on the road soon. Many thanks to all contributors. Chet...
  8. You’re right getting the locking pin out was difficult. It appears that the soft metal pin is deformed by the hardened pivot shaft. I had to drill out most of the pin material to weaken the pin to remove it. The bushings are not a problem and once the locking pin was removed everything came apart effortlessly. See photos.
  9. 32Plywood, Thanks for the verification on which direction the lock pin is installed. This is what I thought but wanted verification before I try to remove it. I would be using a ‘C’ clamp pin press to break the taper lock. I hope I don’t have to cut the King Pin shaft. Ply33, Thanks for the vote of confidence, as always good information presented I like using a long reamer that aligns both the top and bottom bushings. We’ll see what I can come up with. Plyroadking, Thanks, I have the correct parts from a verified source. As far as tools are concern
  10. Jack, You are correct the bushings need to be reamed after being pressed into place. There is a drive line shop nearby and that is always an option. Thanks Chet
  11. Thanks Tod, What you pointed out is my main concern. Which way the pin comes out. Before I start hammering this pin I need to know the direction and if anything is installed to stop the movement beside the taper lock. Then which way the pivot shaft comes out. Top to bottom or bottom to top. hwellens, I appreciate the picture but I have this cut away. I was hoping to find someone who has been there and done this. Tks Chet... PS... The parts are in the mail.
  12. It appears that the knock in my passenger side front wheel is related to the bottom bushing of the king pin. There is a good amount of play and I can physically move the wheel back & forth and create the knock. I guess cleaning off the protective years of grease and grime helped bring out the problem. So I need to replace the king pin set and while I'm at it, replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Oh yes probably should install the new brake pads I have for the front. Unfortunately I have never replaced king pins before and could use some advise. I don't think it's di
  13. Anyone have a picture of what the rear roof trim looks like or how it was handled on your 28,29,or 1930 sedan restoration ? I am aware that the side trim was a rain channel. Attached is a photo of how my rear roof aligns with the metal skin. Tks, Chet...
  14. Hi Tom, I didn't know they had double face mastic tapes for glass. I'll check into that. I was thinking of gluing in a 1/8" rubber gasket and then gluing the glass but the double sided tape sounds like the right stuff for the job. BTW... Is there a setting for this forum to bring the most recent post to the top when you open a thread. I couldn't find any settings for default display.
  15. As you may be able to tell from the pictures the window was removed prior to painting the car. All the glass is back in except for this rear window. It had to be removed, it was held in place with glazing compound. Also I redid the wood framing and I couldn't accomplish that with the window in place. So I guess that ship has sailed. Any other suggestions appreciated. Tks, Chet...
  16. Here are two pictures. The car is wood framed with metal skins.
  17. Anyone have any experience replacing the center rear window in the 29U. I don't believe there was any gasket. Is it just black silicon RTV could use some suggestions. Thanks, Chet...
  18. Thanks but I did find what I needed. Many thanks for getting back to me.
  19. Thanks all, I did stumble across one with a little help from a friend. I will check out the 28 Ply Parts post. Always good to have a spare. Chet...
  20. Thanks, Forth Wayne Clutch & Driveline didn't have one. As a last resort they may be able to piece something together if I can't fine anything. Pressure plate from Ply 1928 to 1932 will work but still nothing in stock. As I am sure you know that's the problem with a 90 year old car. Chet...
  21. I am looking for a clutch pressure plate for a 1929 Plymouth U. I have an old Interchangeable parts book [Chilton] from the early 30’s. I could not find any markings on the pressure plate but Chilton shows it as EJ10 13 in it's interchange parts book. Chrysler Part number: 42233 I believe this pressure plate (Chilton EJ10 - 13) was used on : 1927 Whippet 93A Rockford Clutch 1928-29 Whippet 98 1930-31 Whippet 98A 1928 Willys-Knight 56 1928-29 Will
  22. Tks, Tom It does appear that TRW makes this part. I wonder if this was a Tryon upgrade or a TRW replacement part for the original Tryon shackle. I think these shackles are also on my rear springs so I am thinking that all my car shackles were replaced at some time in the past. The style of the shackle makes me believe that it is an early part. ca. 1930's. possibly an upgrade from the Original Tryon. Anyway the TRW replacement might be better than my current solution if the dimensions match. I am checking into this as I type.
  23. This shackle was installed in my 29 Plymouth. I don't believe this to be an original shackle since the 29 Plymouth used Tryon Shackles. Does anyone recognize this shackle. If so can you let me know what car it might have been used on or is it possibly a solution for the Tryon shackle ???
  24. Thanks, Based on this and feedback from some other sites I believe you are correct. Thanks I was looking for conformation.
  25. On the 1929 Plymouth Radiator Shroud I guess, all exposed surfaces are pated ? On my car the metal under the cap and the hinge loop is painted the same as the body. I was told by another 29 owner that the metal under the cap was chrome as well as the hood hinge loop. Can anyone confirm what was originally done ? I am bringing this item to the plater next week Thanks Chet...
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