W_Higgins

When something breaks on the way out, extractors are usually not the way to go for a number of reasons (some of which you've mentioned). Don't take this wrong, but the head is off the engine, is it not? I just don't want to throw answers out there if you're trying to do this with it still installed. Keiser's got the easiest answer. Laborwise you're looking at some work.

I don't know, but maybe it came in a set along with a bottle of blinker fluid.

Gee, a quick Googling found people on the H.A.M.B. defending it, so it must be true....

Larry's right about the 50/50 mix. I would recommend that if this is one that hasn't been run in awhile, or ever had a full rebuild, that you remove the coolant jacket covers and make sure the block isn't packed full of crap. Aside from it clogging your radiator, those heavy pockets of mud can generate hot spots that will cause problems later.

Right idea, but I'm pretty sure it's the wrong unit. In fact, I think it's from a Dodge. They ran 12v North-East starter-generators. They're so scarce that I've never seen one in person, but I believe that you should have an Entz. Also, do you know if your car is 18v? Earlier Whites were. What you have would probably work, as it looks like somebody went to the effort to finish adapting it. The original units must have been a lot of trouble. It seems like most were removed and discarded.

Probably not much of anything lasting that you can do for rubber. For leather, probably just like anything else made of the same, you can use neatsfoot oil, Lexol, or maybe even just a soaking in the oil or grease you intend to use when it's in service.

If you happen to find that you have a spare starter-generator and you'd like to sell it, I would be very interested. I brazed-up about 28 inches worth of crack in the 1912 that I was working on. They all do it, and it's not necessarily from freezing. White must have had problems with pent-up stress in their castings. The engine block, in a general sense, is actually quite common as they kept using it through about the 1930's, if I recall. I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't cracked.

Those two bosses sticking out once had a large pin going through them with a cast aluminum plate upon which a starter-generator was perched (in fact, I now see you have the pin). Good luck finding one. I've been trying for close to 15 years. Very cool find, by the way. So, how many linear inches of crack does your block have in it?

Mine will handle any of the common sizes of wheels available. I buff a fair amount of stuff, but am not a buffing expert (i.e., still have to get the book out to remember what's needed for certain applications). Wheel diameter probably has a lot to do with what speed you want to run, and there may be some work you can do faster with higher rpm stuff, but mine does everything I want at a speed that won't launch things into orbit if something goes wrong. Mostly, I run 8 inch wheels. Smaller wheels at higher rpm would probably be for working in detailed areas. Brass, chrome, and stainless are things I buff frequently, but I've also done the cloudy plastic headlight lenses on my '96 Lincoln and get super results across all material types with what I have. I would recommend mounting it on a pedestal rather than a cabinet. A pedestal is less in the way, easier to drag into the middle of the room if you have bigger pieces to do, and it's a messy process. If you have a cabinet with things in it, it will make a mess of the contents.

That's a nice clamp, just like how some pullers are made. I wish more clamped because on so many hubs the threads are already compromised.

I have a 3/4hp, 1,800 rpm Baldor. It does everything I want one to do. Better than a toy, and not so big that it's obnoxious.

Yeah, I know. Thank God old car judging rules are the only rules the AACA writes!

That's a great example -- or this one (sure to light some on fire): Things being "over restored". You can't over-restore something when to restore is to return to original condition with that being the gold standard. If it is anything other than what it would have been originally, it is just incorrect.

The SAE paper on this subject is the best source of information. Beware what you find on the web. They were studying it over 30 years ago, whereas it's only been a topic in the old car community for the last few years. My understanding is that this is mostly a problem with newly rebuilt flat tappet engines. In broken-in engines where the the lifter is already riding on a large contact area, it's not really an issue. Also, we'd see every flat tappet engine dropping out left-and-right if that were the case. There's no harm in adding a ZDDP additive so long as it's in the proper quantity (you can have too much, too), it's just that I think much of this is overblown in an effort to sell more additives, and quite often these articles we read on the web come from sites where they're selling a remedy. Also, don't forget that inferior metallurgy in reproduction cams and lifters is to blame for some of these failures we read about.

On the 1916 R&L that I help take care of we have a transformer and manually dial-up what we need, but this means needing to pay attention to what you're doing. A smart charger would definitely be better. We started questioning this awhile back because we think there might be a problem charging the batteries in series, so occasionally we disconnect them and charge each one individually, and also use this method in an attempt to desulfate them after they've been in service for awhile. Say John, while we were running 14 batteries, we also recently had a motor failure (we had a fully rebuilt one in the car and a spare in storage that was just "freshened-up"). Our motor man blamed us for cooking it on account of using too many batteries (though I think he first suggested it was a higher voltage motor than it actually is). A fully charged 6v battery is really like 6.5, so we're going to cut back one battery. You might want to consider the same. 14 batteries @ 6.5v makes 91 volts. We now believe we have an 80v (not a 90v) motor.

Start with Bob's Buick out west. If he doesn't have what you need either new or used, he can probably put you in contact with someone who does: Bob's Automobilia Gas Tank Renu is great if your tank is Swiss cheese and you're trying to salvage it, but it's a shame to put it through that process if it's just dirty. Below are photos of a '32 Buick tank I steamed a few years ago and it looked like new money afterward. Quite often, what people think is a rusty tank inside is just all the collected brown varnish. Many tanks still have their original terneplate finish inside beneath all that crap. I'm not a big fan of coatings because all that crap growing inside will grow on top of a coating, too, and in time all coatings will fail. When that happens, then you have a whole new problem:

Well, it's always best to shop around. I just suggested them because they can be an easy source for other products that are difficult to find.

Most people just stack 6v deep cycle golf cart batteries in series to get the required voltage. I know of a heavily used Rauch and Lang that recently replaced all 14 of its batteries after about five years of service. Photos of your wheels would help. That might be a tough one.

I think you're comparing apples and oranges there. That's Bondo-Glass with fiberglass in it, not standard polyester body filler. I'm a piker when it comes to shopping and have found that Jamestown is pretty comparable on the same products being sold other places.

Did you happen to pay with a credit card? If so, file a claim with your credit card company with supporting documentation. They're usually pretty good if you can prove that you're in the right.

I had a customer ship a car thorough a broker rather than going direct to the company that I recommended. All arrangements were taken care of by him. The broker wound up hassling me for his commission. I seriously doubt my customer would have stiffed him, and pick-up was already made at that point. It later occurred to me that that was probably also a "skim" itself, with this goober calling everyone connected hoping maybe to cash in on the confusion of multiple parties involved thinking someone might pass him an extra check. He sounded like a total illiterate, anyway, so it wouldn't surprise me.

I hope that if you get it back, you also get the satisfaction of running them over with it.

Here we have two 292 Chevy flywheels. One is a one-dowel and the other is a three-dowel. Both have been blasted and freshly reground. Nice ring gear on both. Outright sale, no core required, ready to bolt on your truck: $75 each, or $125 for both. Willing to ship. Local pick-up preferred. Please email direct: machineman2960 {at} yahoo.com or post to this thread. Flywheel grinding service available, in addition to resurfacing of heads and manifolds. This is honest flat milling, not the inadequate practice of surfacing on a belt sander or dressing by hand across a stone-in-table machine which does not produce a truly flat surface.

I was looking to see if there's a reducer for West System stuff and found this convenient .pdf from Jamestown Distributors: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/2010PDFS/epoxy.pdf There are lots of other similar products. I only have experience with Kwik-Poly and West System. You might want to study here and see if there's something you think might better fit your needs. Jamestown has lots of other handy stuff. I'm not a "make everything stainless" guy, but when you need something like a stainless carriage bolt, or some such, they're a good source.

I think you might be able to get a reducer for West System stuff (I'll take a look). I know you can get different activators and thickening agents. Yes, both will strengthen joints. Just make sure that you have it set-up in the shape you want when you apply it. If you have the door laying twisted on your work bench and then remount it to the car, you're going to find you now have a solid twisted door. It's basically soaking into the soft places, filling the gaps, and then hardening in the voids.