fatbuick

Thanks Jim. It's winter here and I have a temp gauge so the coolant is definitely not above normal. Maybe the noise is something else but I've bought another lighter duty clutch Haydon #2705 and will give that a try soon. It also has a spring at the front but listed as Thermal whereas the #2747 is listed as Thermal Heavy Duty.

I've just started having the same roar at highway speeds on my 65 and it's really annoying like you say. The fan clutch is about 3 years old and didn't do it until recently. According to the invoice it's a Haydon Part #2747 and a Thermal fan I believe because it has the coil spring. Did anyone find a solution or has this one just failed?

Hi Chimera, I bought that 66 Riv as is and the colors were switched as in the seats were the same color as the steering wheel originally. For more pictures go here and then to galleries. I sold that car in 2011. It was RHD too

Please remind me on the cost of your hornbars and do they have the original detail. Maybe a close up picture? I'm thinking of having mine rechromed but maybe a stronger metal would be good. Are yours brass?

Hi Rod, That sounds like a workable solution. The old Valiant remote mirrors look similar on the right hand side but on my 66 it was RHD.

Hi Jan, That must just be a brand name but any pump for non-AC car should work fine with no detrimental effects, and probably the way to go if you're planning on adding AC soon. AC cars had fan shrouds and 20" dia blades and clutch. You can get all these parts except the 20" fan blades and shroud from All American Auto Parts (AAAP) in Ballarat. They offer 10% discount to Buick Club members. If you don't have a fan shroud I have a mould and can get them made. click here and go to the bottom of the page. The timing cover gasket set comes with your new timing chain, also available from AAAP This is the fan you should get

Hi Jan, They come out of nowhere don't they. Lucky it didn't hit the front maybe. The door skin will need to come off to repair it I think and this can be done without having to remove the door but a used skin might be easier than repairing that one. I can put the word out to Aussie members who may have a parts car if you like. Contact me by email.

Helps you find the hole in the dark though.

In my 65 my tilt column doesn't down go down below the center point. In other words I can lift the wheel but not drop it below the center position. Is this something that can be fixed or is it a big headache pulling the tilt mechanism apart?

I put in a Retro Sound radio and they sell stereo speakers that fit in the space well. When ordering the radio they need the dimensions shown in the picture of the old radio. https://www.retromanufacturing.com/ I was able to choose radio knobs that almost matched the Buick ones. They were VW or Mustang but can't remember exactly.

This one looks the same: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Washable-19-Oval-Ball-Mill-Aluminum-Air-Cleaner-Breather-Chevy-Ford-Dual-Mopar-/251479237899?hash=item3a8d54a50b:g:5iwAAOSw3ydVur77

Hi Buddy, I bought the last one of these billet air cleaners in Australia from a company called Billet Works but as it came from the US originally you might find a supplier there. I don't know the brand name but this is what is on the box. It's a quality made item. Here's the thing though, I had to use the base from the original cleaner and attach it to the bottom of the billet one. I had already cut the base out to adapt the GS cleaner to a single Qjet setup a couple of years ago.

Good on ya Jo. If Rodney doesn't let you drive it after this you could always buy your own Buick

The clutch recently died on my original compressor so I decided to update it to a modern rotary model for half the price. It's a Tama TM16HD GM Pad 12V 2A and comes with double pulleys, GM style pad for hose connectors. This means you could reuse the original hoses. One modification would be to shorten the lower section of the metal pipe next to the compressor by 82mm to bring the hose mount end forward to the shorter compressor. I opted to have new hoses made re-using just the section coming off the Suction Throttle Valve. The mounting holes are almost the same as original. I just had to file the holes on the original bracket inwards slightly and used 5/16" SS Bolts. The rear support bracket is not needed and replaced with a an L-shaped bracket down to the rear alternator swing bolt. It works a treat and the old school guy even still had R12.

I've been knocking a few things off my To Do list on the 65. Installed and tested the Electro Cruise for the first time and it works perfectly. Pretty cool feature for a 50 year old car. I had the Dual Quads rebuilt and restored and adapted this billet air cleaner which is quite narrow. At least you can see the dual quads now with the air cleaner on. Recently fitted a later style AC compressor and had new hoses made. It's chilly. I tidied up the firewall while my brake booster was being rebuilt and today bled the brakes and adjusted the rear drums which makes the front discs work even better. Oh yeah, also restored the gas pedal rollers because one had a flat spot. I'm a happy camper

The dash pad is not connected to the A-pillar covers. Once all the screws along the underside of the front dash pad lip are removed, remove the panel above the radio to give you a solid grip of the dash pad and pull towards the rear of the car as shown in this picture. The speaker needs to be disconnected as mentioned in an earlier post.

Is it possible to remove the inner cable at the transmission end? This would be much easier to lube it

Hi Tom, now the festive season is over I'm continuing with the rear disc brakes. Have you had any luck with question one please?

Well done Jan. It will work best when combined with the heavier front bar we supplied. You should notice a big improvement.

We do a repro fan shroud made from fiberglass. It takes about 2 weeks to have them made and we do them in batches once we have a few orders. They are identical to the original 65 shroud. They are shown on my website here: http://www.mako.com.au/buick/html/for_sale.htm Remember, the Aussie dollar is worth only 72% of the USD and there's no 10% tax. Shipping I would need to quote to a Zip code

Congratulations on your trophy. I can't remember if I asked you to send me an article about your Riv for the Australian Riview e-magazine yet but what you have posted here is suitable if you don't mind. Maybe just send me the higher resolution pictures you would like to go with your article. Let me know if you've received your sway bars yet. I'll get a tracking number if you haven't.

Nice job Jan. A lot of work but much safer for your rear passengers. Ed, I just installed new lap belts in the rear and 3-point in the front.

71-76 rotors are plenty big enough at just under 12" dia and over 1-1/4" thick. I've got a 71 Riv and the standard single piston calipers are not that great. This is why we're using a larger 4 spot caliper for our disc brake conversion kits. Our kit will only fit ralley wheels from 1971 onwards, disc brake ralleys and larger dia wheels of course.

Hi Raul, Gentleman! I like that. Remove all the bolts you can and the cables and remember mine is 65 so could be different.You really just need to give it a go and try everything gently.Best of luck

Mine wavers a bit at low speeds but not very noisy. What is the easiest method of removing the inner cable so I can check it and lubricate it?