1965rivgs

Turn on the brights...check to see if one of the lights is not functioning at all or not at full brightness. If so, look for the short in that circuit. If all the lights are functioning correctly feel the dimmer switch or the wiring and check if it is hot to the touch. If so, you will find your short in close proximity. Dont disregard the possibility the breaker in the switch could be weak due to age. When I am troubleshooting a short in heavy duty trucks and have no luck with typical procedures I bypass the circuit protection and watch for the smoke..not for the faint of heart but usually pretty effective! Tom Mooney

In addition to proper ground and cleaning the tracks and screw the transmission which engages the up-down or forward-rear components to the rotation of the motor needs to be dis-assembled and cleaned. Sounds like your problem as you are not engaging the up-down function...a better ground might loosen up the solenoids in the trans. Try that first before you remove and dismantle the entire seat assembly To engage the tripmeter push in on the knob and turn clockwise. The cable may be stubborn and produce erratic action on the number barrel but will smooth out if you use it frequently. Good luck, Tom Mooney

The wheel pictured is a shallow disc brake wheel...wrong offset for your `64. Tom Mooney

Mitch Romanowski has a set of 15 x 7 rechromed Buick road wheels for sale in the Riview. These are a 5 on 5 bolt pattern but I believe one would need to run a spacer to make the wheels fit a drum brake car. Tom Mooney

Probably just a brake shoe slightly dragging. If you were able to turn it by hand it should present no problem. If you see smoke that is not induced by the go pedal coming from the rear wheels the next time you drive it you might want to back off the adjustment a hair. Tom Mooney

Riv specific as the Riv has three seperate courtesy light circuits which require female terminals at the switch. Other models used the same basic switch but with one or two contacts. Just noticed an NOS switch with the rubber boot sell on Ebay for $5. Nice deal, Tom Mooney P.S. Todd, if you cant find cores let me know and I`ll send you a couple of Paul`s rebuilt switches. Call via telephone or email as I may not view your response here at the forum.

There will be no info on the tag except stating limited slip. Tom Mooney

Hi Todd, Paul Metzler advertises in the Riview and currently has an auction running on Ebay for rebuilt switches with his redesigned contact. He should have a good supply on hand as I purchased a dozen from him recently and he stated he had just run off a new batch of contacts. Although the original design is poor I have had good luck with his switches. Tom Mooney

I recently ordered an Anchor brand mount thru my local auto parts store. There was no listing for a `65 Riv but there was a listing for a Wildcat, Electra of the same year, is the same mount as the Riv. What arrived in the box was nothing like the proper mount and had already separated from the metal backing! The mount looked new but obviously the rubber never properly bonded to the metal. Wow! Thanks for the info Ed, Tom Mooney

Dale has identified the limited slip tag. Unless the clutch plates are completely shot both wheels should turn in the same direction. Sometimes the housings are stamped with a partial ratio and sometimes they are blank. Sometimes the "X" stamping is very, very light or not to be found at all. I`ve installed 3:42`s in 3:07 housings, 3:23`s in 3:42 housings, etc..so stampings can lead to incorrect assumptions. I recently inspected a true `65 GS, true low mileage car with all matching numbers, BS coded trans and a 3:07 rear end! No stamped characters on the housing. Best to check what is actually in the housing by inspecting the number of rotations. Tom Mooney

Hi Arron, Where did you obtain your new sending unit? I`m sure quite a few folks would like that info. Good price? Also, I would test the unit before buttoning up the whole job. You dont want to assemble the tank, etc only to find the sender is not wired properly for the gauge or you need a supplemental ground, etc...good luck! Tom Mooney

Hi Pat, Thought perhaps the mount is regularly available in most auto parts stores but listed under a different application so I was curious if you found the application. Thanks for the info, Tom Mooney

The `64 build sheets were very simple, much more so than the later sheets. There is a box for a code which represents the rear diff but one must have a "legend" to interpret the codes. I have one for the `66 cars a booklet which originally was a manual used by spot checkers involved with quality control at the Flint plant which serves as a legend. But I have found some errors in this manual so I dont consider it "Bible". But chances of finding a build sheet in a first gen Riv are very slim....and you dont need it to inspect the rear end. Since you have a posi the procedure is very simple. Mark the backing plate and tire/rim in adjacent spots. Also make a mark on the driveshaft. Watch both the mark on the rim and the mark on the driveshaft while turning the rim. Count the number of times the driveshaft turns for ONE full turn of the tire/rim. This will be your ratio. So, if the driveshaft turns just a hair over 3 turns your ratio is 3:07. If it turns approxiamately 3 and 1/4 turns (3.25) your ratio is 3:23 to 1, etc...I`ll bet your rear gear is a 3:07. Good luck, let us know! Tom Mooney

Arron, I`m confused?? I thought your purpose was to use the ribbed `64 dash in your `65? Is that coming later? Tom Mooney

I agree with Dick but I dont think even the Jenkin`s stuff is "right on". The overall appearance of the trunk seems a few shades lighter in tone than the original. I hope no one ever comes out with the right lining. A nice original condition trunk is always an indicator of a very well kept early Riv. Tom Mooney

Hi Pat, May I ask where you purchased the new mount? TIA, Tom Mooney

Use the force of the spring to help seperate the ball joint (be sure to leave the castle nut on the end) then cut the springs in half with a torch. You`re not going to reinstall the old springs after all that labor, right? Tom Mooney

All the dual quad `64`s I have owned and/or inspected had a 3:07 posi under them. That is not to say other options were not available but in my experience that seems to be the typically installed diff. Tom Mooney

Lot #307 is a `66 Wildcat convertible. The pics are not the greatest but it sure looks like it has a Gran Sport emblem in the grille. If so, that`s a rather rare Buick. Anyone close who can inspect it? Tom Mooney

Sounds great Paul. I have been driving an `82 T-Type weather permitting for several years now...nice driver...but I`m ready for a change. Maybe an early 4 speed Wildcat? Know anyone who has one? He, he, he...have fun! Tom Mooney

That tire chart doesn`t seem right to me. If I am reading it correctly it indicates a `64 7.60 tire is larger than a `65 8.45? And a `64 7.60 tire is equivalent to a 225 75? Hmmm... Tom Mooney

Hi Todd, Yes, two different rim widths are possible on your `64. I would bet you have the larger 6 inch rims though. The 235`s are on the big side in terms of stock type tires. The 225`s are an ideal size as they are slightly larger than the original 8:45`s if memory serves me correctly. Tom Mooney

Pete, why dont you post a part number and manufacturer for the tank filter for the benefit of those who would like to replace theirs? Personally, I`m not particular about the presence of a tank filter or not but most folks are and might find the info helpful, Tom Mooney

Hi Arron, Shoot me your email address and I scan scan and email the info you need, Tom Mooney

The price to recore radiators has risen dramatically in the last few years. Perhaps it has to do with a rise in price of the core itself? I have been quoted prices in the $400.00 range by the shops in my area which are reasonable shops and I have been using for years. If you check online, like Ebay, you may find a much more reasonable, but non-stock appearing, alternative in aluminum If the core itself is not rotten but just plugged it is possible to remove one of the tanks, rod out the tubes and re-assemble the radiator. Believe it or not, I had this done 3 years ago to an ORIGINAL `65 radiator and it has held up well, no more overheating, no leaks. I didn`t expect to drive the car across country, although I would, and wanted to retain as many of the original components as possible. Most rad shops will shy away from this but most , if they have workers that can actually solder, will do it without any guarantee. Regarding concerns about the 5 impeller pump and flow...the rad will not be the choking point, the thermostat will...unless you plan to remove it. Even then, I dont see it as an issue, Tom Mooney