RivNut
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Posts posted by RivNut
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Congrats. When you get everything mounted, post some pictures.
??? on your tire size. Did you mean 235/70 R 15?-
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What’s the majority’s opinion on these clamps for gas lines? For vacuum lines?
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Google "plastic repairs using baking soda and supe glue" and look for a link to some YouTube videos. I've made repairs using this method. You'll need some references for dimensions and hole location and diameter.
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Unless you’re buying your wheels from Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace, a reputable wheel retailer should have a tool that can be attached to your lugs and determine the best size wheel for your car. A tool something similar to this.
Because most wheels are milled from a block, the manufacturer can program their milling machine to produce wheels of a certain width with prescribed back spacing and offset. A friend of mine with a 65 Gran Sport had this done and his wheels fit perfectly. Because the wheels are custom made, it may take a little longer to get them. But the wait will be worth it.
Don’t ask me to give you the specs on his wheels because the stance, brakes, etc are probably different than yours. You want staggered 19 and 20 inch wheels with different sized tires; his are 17” wheels running the same sized tire
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11 hours ago, Wayne R said:
Nice reading, will post other pages if required.
An excellent picture of the three ring white wall for use in determining spacing.
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4 hours ago, XframeFX said:
The rear end makes sense too.
I only replaced hoses at both ends and upgraded to SAE 30R9 fuel injection hoses and FI clamps. I am still running the original 3/8" supply and 1/4" return tubing.
Even though like-for-like REGULAR SAE 30R7 hoses would've been good too. I feel better with the hose upgrade because I find the connection at the front is too low. There is a head down there, probably because the mechanical fuel pump needs it.
A leak at the rear, you'd be sucking air. A leak at the front? Well . . . .
I redid all the lines and hoses on my 64 when it was on a lift and I redid my rear brake lines. I also went with FI hoses at every place there was a hose plus a couple of short pieces to connect the hard lines to the electric fuel pump I installed.
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1) possible
2) highly unlikely. most everyone you’ll find has those tabs broken off
3) 😀
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1966 with MZ code engine for sale on FB ‘All Mighty Nailhead” group. I’m not tech savvy enough to copy and paste a FB link.
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The rear end is simple. The hose from the tank connects to the solid line with clamps. There is nothing to route. The only problem you might run into would be if you need to drop the tank to access the sending unit where the supply tube is. As long as you have the tank down, put a new “sock” on the pickup tube and run a dedicated ground wire from the sending unit to the chassis/body. On my ‘64, while all that was accessible, I installed an electric fuel pump. Wired to only prime the carb after sitting for long periods, and as low in the line and as close to the tank as possible.
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In the Kansas City Metro, there is a NAPA regional store that can reproduce air conditioning hoses right down to the proper fittings. Check in your area.
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When I redid the gas line on my 64, the rubber line to the fuel pump started at the firewall, then snaked through the right front coil spring pocket where there’s a very hard to reach clamp before getting to the fuel pump. Then another rubber line snakes through the a/c - alternator bracket to the fuel filter. Then a shorter hose from the filter to the carb. If you have a/c and a fuel return line, the return hose has no specific routing back to the steel return line. Both steel lines, supply and return, truncate at the same point under the floor at the firewall.
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4 hours ago, mcvalencia said:
That's where I got the Pic but it's out of stock I'm looking all over and that's the only place I can even find a picture
Sounds like you’ll be making your own 🤨
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Up in the search bar, type in 'opgi package tray' and read the comments. Not sure the one you're looking at is the same but the price would suggest it
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1 hour ago, mrsuggestion said:
Has anyone bought a package tray from Profit? If so, were you satisfied with it?
I'm aware of the Clark's tray, but tough time justifying an extra $200.
Thank you,
Matt
Just make sure this isn’t the flat one that you bend in angles to make it fit. Those were sold by OPGI some time ago and looked like crap when installed.
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54 minutes ago, Craig Balzer said:
I send him a message thru eBay a day ago
Still waiting on response
Sent you a PM
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My dad was a professional Buick mechanic before and after WWII. I know that he put in 40 hours a week for 50 weeks a year for 25+ years so he had at least 50,000 hours spent turning wrenches. Because of all this time spent with wrenches, he refused to work on his own cars and wouldn’t lift a finger to help me with mine (but he would give me advice.) I know quite a few full time mechanics who just don’t want to have anything to do with hobby cars. I’ll do what I can, leave the technical stuff to the professionals and continue to enjoy the hobby.
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2 minutes ago, Deanoko said:
Out of 1000 drivers, how many do you actually think rotate their spare into the mix? Particularly since full sized spares on new cars are extremely rare, if they even have one.
None, but we’re not talking about today’s cars. But if you’re judging an old car based on originality you should have to consider the time period from when the car was first delivered. In 1963, the spare was used in a 5 tire rotation. It should get the same consideration.
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4 hours ago, EmTee said:
Probably something that would not be noticed unless one of the judges really knows 1st-gen Rivieras (and would likely be discussed with the other judges and possibly the Chief Judge). If something is visible in the trunk that wasn't there when the car was delivered new, then a deduction could be taken for 'authenticity'. A deduction for something missing is less likely. That said, if there's a factory cover on the spare tire, I don't believe the lead judge would ask the owner to remove it. All I know for sure is the spare tire doesn't need to match the other four tires, except that it needs to be the proper size and construction (i.e., bias-ply).
At least it’s not Corvette judging. Read something some time back where two cars were tied going into a final competition. The winner was declared when it was determined that the spare on one car was not properly inflated and could not have been used if needed.
Seems odd that because the spare would be part of the tire rotation, it should match the four on the ground.
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That’s the way it would have been delivered - five (5) cast aluminum covers, one on each wheel on the ground and one on the spare. Remember, in those days tire rotations included the spare. Rotate 5 tires but because you needed to remove the knock off to access the lug nuts, there was only need for four knock offs. Put on what you removed where you took it off.
Which brings up a question. Do the BCA judges check to see that there is a cast cover on the spare? If so, make sure you have 5 covers when being judged.
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I imagine that these retailers are all getting the same product from the distributor/manufacturer. I go mine from James at Bestoffercounts because he deals with you personally.
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Not mine but nowhere else to post it.
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20 minutes ago, EmTee said:
From the BCA Judging Manual (https://www.buickclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/bca_judging_manual.pdf😞
Thanks
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8 minutes ago, EmTee said:
No, it is considered to be a 'safety item'. I attended judging school in Strongsville and judged on Saturday. It was a good experience.
I concur, however, that you shouldn't routinely disconnect power on a car that uses an ECM. Disconnect for long-term storage, or connect a battery tender.
With that being a safety factor, couldn’t you argue that adding a dual reservoir master cylinder could also fall under the same umbrella? Not being a BCA member all of this is foreign to me.
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Quick-ratio steering box for my '63 Riv
in Buick Riviera
Posted
If you go back to a post on Dec 27, 2020 and look at the attached invoice, you will see that the CCP500 power steering box is for a G Body (intermediate series) car. Then look for Tom T.’s comments on his full body boxes when compared to the intermediate body boxes. Could this be the reason that the fittings are different?