RivNut
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Posts posted by RivNut
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8 minutes ago, atencioee said:
Haha, well, since you provided the link I thought you would know?? From looking at those, It's a little difficult to know the quality of that material. Have you tried those? When looking at the matching vehicles it doesn't mention 64 Riviera, but only the Skylark and Special, which may or may not be similar. But again, have you used those offered at the link you provided?
I don’t need them, but apparently you do. I’m not going to do your research for you.
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1 hour ago, gungeey said:
That being the case, what purpose does the roa link serve for Chris's identification purposes
Until the post saying they were not Buick horns, I didn’t look that closely at them. Figured they were posted there for a reason and my post was for help to whoever might want to identify them. Just trying to be helpful. Next time I’ll get out my magnifying glass and spend a couple of hours looking them over before trying to help. Sorry if I’ve rained on your parade.
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3 minutes ago, gungeey said:
Not for riviera, I believe those are 6V
I agree that these are not Buick horns - obvious by the way the Bella are attached to the base but no idea about the voltage. If they are 6 volt and you put 12 volts not them you should wear ear protection while checking them out.
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Perhaps if the opening in the tabs were enlarged and the console were attached using some sort of large cushioning washer, the cushions would allow for some minor movement but still allow for a secure attachment to the dash.
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Nice car but not the one I saw. The one I saw was sitting outside. From the accumulated dirt and dust on it, I could not tell if it was a bronze/brown car or just that dirty. Sorry, I’ve searched and scrolled through the “Almighty Nailhead” site and cannot find it.
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This is on the ROA’s website. It’s hard to tell you how to get there so here’s a link.
http://www.chip.com/buick/techtips/hornrepair.html
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On 8/6/2024 at 10:55 PM, atencioee said:
Was more like confusion than a question...perhaps you meant your console story to be in response of another poster's post. Anyways, thanks for the link.
Gene,
What did you find out after checking out info on the link?
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2 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Since Ive handled a number of the 15”x6” 5 on 5 Buick chrome wheels I’ll go out on a limb and say they look like real to me. The car, if Wildcat, had the first Buick chrome wheels. If the car is a Wildcat that could be an indication pointing toward the real deal. Im happy to be wrong.
However, I have some hands on experience with the wheels. The center caps themselves are collector pieces. Good luck
Turbinator
It is a Wildcat. Identical to the one I had my senior year in college - 1969- got married, took our honeymoon in, brought home our first born in. Chris sent me some more pictures. Here’s one showing the whole car
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2 hours ago, cjp69 said:
Will PM you.
Got the PM. I am 🤢 green with envy. After seeing more pictures of the complete car, I’d be comfortable saying the wheels are original to the car. This 64 Wildcat Spt Cpe is almost identical to the on I had in 68 - 70. Had it my senior year in college, took my honeymoon in it, brought my daughter home from the hospital in it. Surely does bring back a lot of memories. Mine had black rather than blue interior, bucket seats, floor shift console. The purchaser put a number of options on it besides the wheels - cruise, wood wheel, cornering lights, and Guidematic - from what I could see in the pictures. Too bad my garage is about 12” too short for it 😢
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41 minutes ago, cjp69 said:
Thanks Ed. Car isn't physically with me, or even mine. I am just trying to identify parts from pictures that are part of a deceased person's estate. The rims are on a 64 Wildcat, and the caps look original to me, so I guess those are clues in the right direction.
Is that a Wildcat Spt Cpe? If so, it's like the one I had back in college. All my friends had mustangs and Camaros, with no air, manual brakes, manual steering, and no a/c. They thought they had a cool car until they rode with me. Is the entire car for sale? Are you just after the wheels? What are you going to put them on? If the car is for sale, I have wheels for you. 😉
If they are Wildcat wheels and there are 4 with 4 center caps, you might be able to sell those to a Wildcat enthusiast and have money to buy some different one, some proper caps, and put some money in the bank.
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1 hour ago, cjp69 said:
Guys,
Is this a correct 64 Wildcat wheel?
Thanks, Chris.jpeg.53be5e4bf576e226f9b15912978810a2.jpeg)
Looks like a 64 from the color and the center cap. If possible, pull the wheel and look for evidence of a register ring. From what I’ve read, the only difference between the 64 chrome wheel and a 65 chrome wheel is that the 65 has a register ring.
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27 minutes ago, Brtele said:
The prybar trick you mention is exactly what I was thinking about just looking at it.
I also thought about loosening the AC bracket bolts a couple of turns to get some play and then retorquing - I don't think the single head bolt getting loosened and then retorqued will cause a problem.
I think I'm going to go to the local hardware to get new bolt - taking my old bolts there to ensure sizes are exact.
Thanks,
On a page close to the front in your chassis manual is a chart showing thread sizes and torque amounts. It does no give lengths.
If you’re not in a big rush to get this done, I have a collection of stock head bolts. Let me know the length and I’ll see if I have that I can send to you. Send me a PM with the length and you’re shipping info.
Ed
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10 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
Ed, what does how parts get broken have to do with locating a weatherstrip
for Gene's cowl? I too am very confused regarding your comment.
Apparently I replied to a different thread than I thought I was. I did however get back on track and post a link for the weather strips Gene was looking for. At 77 years old, you’ll have to allow my mind to wander every once in a while. Just keep bringing me back to earth.
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Originally I used steel bolts with anti-seize on them where the bolts go into the block, but used aluminum bolts where the bolts go into the front cover. Then I decided to get fancy and installed a stainless kit replacing all the exposed bolts.
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On 5/1/2024 at 11:29 PM, XframeFX said:
Those Rings simply knock out. But I see 5 heavy tack welds.
An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Then finish off with a grinding disc.
A LOT of work, X4!
I removed the register rings from 4 wheels about a month ago. On the first one, I attacked the weld. It took a lot of time, effort, and one cutting disk. On the last three, I cut through the ring half way beaten the welds cutting the ring into five separate pieces. When the ring is not one piece, each separate piece is easily knocked off with very little effort.
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I was just explaining how the tabs on a console get broken. As well as a couple of other things that get broken on the 1st generation Rivieras.
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10 hours ago, atencioee said:
Does anyone know where I can find this cowl weather stripping / insulation material that attaches to the cowl underneath on each side? As pictured on the cowl from my 64 Rivi, one piece is still attached, while the other side is missing.
If you’ll message me I’ll be glad to explain any of your emoji 😵💫🤷🏻questions.
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I’m not positive about this but count the number of turns in your steering wheel lock to lock. If I’m not mistaken the standard wheel turns about 3-1/4 turns; the H2 option has about 2-1/2 turns. As I said, I’m not sure. But if I am wrong, I am sure someone will be glad to correct me.
Very, very few Riviera owners have found build sheets in their cars. You might try contacting The Buick Heritage Alliance and see what advice they might have for you.
Ed -
Be advised. The Gran Sport option did NOT include the H2 handling package. It was a separate option that could be had on any Riviera.
Besides, the pictured car looks like a really nice example of a Gran Sport. Adding custom wheels and tires to such a car would be blaspheme. If you’re wanting a modified our custom car, do like I did and find one for $1800 that needs some work then have your way with it.
Stock back spacing is 3-3/8”.
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34 minutes ago, Brtele said:
Dang it - that sounds like it's going to reduce motor efficiency/reduce horsepower. Does anyone know a great stock style fan clutch number (all the clutches on RockAuto state Heavy Duty)? Or will I even notice the reduction/change?
You will not notice a drop in horse power (unless you’re trying to compete weekly in sanctioned NHRA events and you’re looking for every tiny bit of power you can squeeze out.)
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1 hour ago, steelman said:
Randy, this is not really a cut and dried situation. Several factors are involved in making the determination you want. You need to determine what size tire to run, front and rear, because the section width of the tires will be the determining factor. Add to that suspension. Yours stock? Stock 60 years ago, or springs replaced? If your GS had the handling package option, those springs are different as well. Backspacing is also important. Custom wheels mean you can specify a backspacing wanted. Need to keep both of these near stock at 3 5/8”. At least you won’t have to deal with the larger 63-64 hub centers or left hand thread lug nuts I did. Speaking of, lug nuts are 1/2 -20, nut 7/16. Also, front hubs are riveted to the drums. These rivets are between the studs and may or may not fit into a depression in the mounting surface of the wheel. May have to remove the rivets or clearance the wheel mounting surface.
You have chosen a good looking wheel, but not sure anyone here will have the answers you seek without more info. Maybe not then.
Good advice.
Unlike my previous advice, which I posted after I bought a set of new 17 x 7 Riddler wheels with a back space about 3/4” - 1” deeper than stock. Bought them off FB market place. Couldn’t beat the price. BUT I may wind up spending more than I should have. Hence I created that previous based on my experiences based on what I learned.
I now have a set of front drums from which the rivets were ground down and removed. My wheels should now fit on the drums but the center hole in the wheel is too small and the stock wheel studs are a little short. So far I've not been able to find longer wheel studs with the proper knurling. My car is about 6 hours away so I have no idea about chassis clearance. With my luck, the back spacing will cause wheels contacting some part of the chassis. An idea 😇, put a 1” 5 on 5 to 5 on 5 spacer between the brake drum and the wheel to compensate for the difference in back spacing. Search the internet. The good - lots of choices; the bad - none of the spacers have a center hole diameter to go over the 64’s hub. That’s okay, I have a set of 1965 front drums. Grind down the rivets and I’m home free. Wrong. I hadn’t thought about the diameter of the flange on the rear axle. I am not going to look for 1965 rear axles. I finally found a company that can custom make spacers with the dimensions that I need. But they come with a premium price - about double that of off the shelf spacers. All in all, I would have been better off taking my own advice. But I would not have had the experience to learn about all the little problems that you run into.
So keep in mind that your car is not a run of the mill Chevy. Do a lot of research keeping in mind what I’ve run across - so far.
Ed
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As you may have deduced, I’m in the process of having my 64 completely redone. I have basically the same thermostat, radiator, shroud, clutch fan, new water pump, etc in my cooling system. In my parts gathering days somewhere through the years I came into possession of a four core radiator. I took it to THE radiator shop in town to be cleaned but was told it needed to be recored. Is it worth $800 now for piece of mind or do I go with my cleaned and rodded three core and wait and see how it performs?
TIA,
Ed
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I know when and why the console in my 63 cracked. It was when my ex wife used it to brace herself when she adjusted the way she was siting in the passenger's seat. It's there, it's handy, it works, but it breaks.
It's like using the top of the window to close the door. That's how the swing arm for adjusting the window gets broken. There are other things that cause breakage. One more I can think of is not holding on to the steering wheel when pulling back on the tilt lever - that sudden return to the highest position breaks the housing for the turn signal wire.
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If you figured it out correctly, you unscrew the ring that has the slots in it. Then the escutcheon should lift off. 😎
.jpeg.53be5e4bf576e226f9b15912978810a2.jpeg)
Timing on a 401
in Buick Riviera
Posted
When Jim asks “what year?” It’s because up through 1963 the distributors on the engines were different, as well as the distributors for the Super Wildcat engine. This requires different initial timing.