RivNut
-
Posts
18,682 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by RivNut
-
-
1 minute ago, XframeFX said:
Exactly. I'm not taking on anything new. IF I was. I'd be beating a path to Chris' door for that LOADED 1964 Wildcat!
It took a whole lot of self persuasion for me not to pursue that Wildcat. That would have taken me back to 1968. Brought my first born home from the hospital in a white Buick Wildcat 2dr hardtop. Mine was as fully equipped. Had the buckets and the floor shift console but no tach or other such amenities.
-
1
-
-
No link. It’s been in storage since before this forum was brought online. Sorry. It’s even difficult for me to access it right now. If I were to get to it to photograph it, you would probably think it was brown with brown tinted windows. Needless to say - it has been neglected for some time. I think I’ve moved it 5 times into different storage units. But haven’t had the heart to get rid of it.
-
1 hour ago, Rivdrivn said:
I’m just crazy for this car…
Yours or one just like yours?
-
I bought an 84 convertible some time ago. It had mice too but I caught them before they had done any damage. A few glue traps placed strategically and I got mom and the babies.
I found out a couple of things of interest. There are some unique “made for the convertible” as you saw on the web site, but most coupe parts are interchangeable - except door panels and visors. The convertible pieces are vinyl rather than fabric.
-
Three bolts connect the adapter to the block. The filter screws off of the adapter. You will want to put a new gasket between the adapter and the block. Wipe fresh oil on the rubber seal on the new filter. Hand tighten the new filter, if your hands are very big or you’re old, like me, you might want to snug, NOT tighten the filter using a filter wrench. Just tight enough so it won’t leak but not so tight that you cannot get it off next time.
-
The background color of instrument panel light housings is a pale blue. Is this the source for the blue hue that you see? If so, will panting the housings a different color cause the light you see to be that color? I had a Pontiac 6000 that had orange light in the instruments and the housings were painted a flat orange.
I realize that I’ve been posting a lot here lately but the restoration of my 64 is getting down to the final stages. Just trying to figure out how to get my instruments to reflect red light. Do I paint the housings flat red and use white LEDs or do I paint the housings flat white and use red LEDs?
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Ed
-
2 minutes ago, RivNut said:
I’m not in the same vicinity as the car. I was looking at a complete system I have here in my garage and comparing it to the pictures on the Waldron site. After sharing pictures of my stuff with the guy doing the restoration work, we came to the conclusion that the pictures on the site are not accurate in that the pipes are pictured without any bolt flanges; but my new pipes have the flanges. All is well.
-
I’m not in the same vicinity as the car. I was looking at a complete system I have here in my garage and comparing it to the pictures on the Waldron site. After sharing pictures of my stuff with the guy doing the restoration work, we came to the conclusion that the pictures onthe site are not accurate in that the pipes are pictured without any bolt flanges. All is well.
-
Here’s a link to a dedicated website for Riviera convertibles. There may be some insight into what’s different about these ASC conversions before and after the sawzall was taken to the coupes.
-
3
-
-
Installing the new Gran Sport pipes on my 64 and have a couple of questions for those of you who have already done this.
1) The Waldron’s site says to use 2-1/4” clamps but where the one pipe slips over the other it’s expanded to slip over the other one. A 2-1/4” clamp does not fit over the expanded end. None of the jobbers have 2-3/8” clamps. WHAT DID YOU USE.?
2) Some of pipes that I removed have matching flanges - one with holes a bolt slips through and one with threads to accept the bolts. Two holes where the resonator eliminator pipe connects to the over the axle pipe; three holes where the cross over pipe connects to the muffler.
Is Waldrons cutting corners by eliminating flanges for slip joints or are the Gran Sport pipes different?
Thanks,
Ed
PS - I can post pictures of the flanged ends if it would help
-
12 minutes ago, slowpoke17 said:
Most of the odor was coming from the trunk so I emptied it out. Found a huge ball of the gray matting in the corner and a dead mouse. I washed the trunk side panels and carpeting down with simple green and letting it sit in the sun now. I removed the bottom of the rear seat and found some remnants under there too. I think the mice only recently got in there. I'm thinking while it was in the dealers storage as my dog killed two mice in the garage after it was delivered and I've never had any before.
Would be great if you found the problem and can solve it without having to try to purchase new stuff.
-
1
-
-
35 minutes ago, trimacar said:
Sentimental value is worthless in the checkbook of the buyer.
2000. 4000. 6000. 8000.
You have a figure in your mind at which it would be sold. Everyone who owns a car has that figure in mind.
Tell the would be buyer that number, then see what happens.
Bear in mind cost of restoration these days is astronomical, so a low offer on a car which needs it all is more reasonable than sharky.
That I understand. I only mention the sentimental value because it will be hard for me to turn it loose. Not to try to pull on the heart strings of the buyer.
-
I have my ‘63 in storage awaiting time, talent, and treasure (funds) to restore it. The guy who owns the storage unit called me the other day and told me he has another customer who is interested in it. I’d like some opinions on what it might be worth as is.
Pros:
It’s 100% original. Black w/ white leather, fully optioned out. You name, it; it has it except rear window defogger.
Cons:
It will require a total restoration - engine, Dynaflow, interior, paint and body. After all it has over 190K on it - all original. I have the sheet metal to replace what’s needed - including an NOS rear tail section that succumb to some rust after some bad body work.
What would you gurus set as a value for selling it. It’s a sentimental piece that I’ve owned since 1982. I think the sentimental value is the reason that I’ve kept it so long.
Thanks,
Ed
-
I did not find it in their catalog. I Googled 1964 rear brake kit and looked the images. I saw a picture and the place (OPGI) where it could be found.
-
It might be possible but I would think that GM would be closed the day after Christmas.
-
OPGI shows a kit with everything but it's up to you if you think you won't get back ordered.
-
4 hours ago, Big E said:
Thanks all. Drums are good, I need the adjuster arm and spring actually.
Google your search then look at images. Some kits are springs and retainers only, other are complete with everything including the self adjuster items.
-
The gentleman who owns the storage facility where my 63 is just replied to me. I had asked him to look in my car the next time he passed it. My car, built 01D, has the two screws in the door.
The FB # (from memory) is ~ 18733.
Maybe this can narrow down your search for the date of the change.
Ed
-
2 hours ago, Aaron65 said:
Just missed it! Mine was built on December 26th.
How can you tell the day? All that’s on the FB data plate is the week and month.
-
I have bought parts from the major jobbers, Rock Auto, and Amazon. New or reproduction drums are no available, but you can have new steel liners put into you original aluminum drums by J&G Brake Relining. They advertise in the Riview.
If you’re having your old drums turned, be aware the limit for turning is 12.080”. Make sure that you have your new shoes “arced” to the turned drum. While you have the drum/hub assembly off you might as well install new wheel bearings.
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, MasonLucas said:
Anyone notice pictures of the interior? Vinyl buckets in one picture cloth bench in a different one.
-
Go to a body shop paint supply jobber and have the counter guy look at the formula for each. If he’s worth his salt he should be able to look at the modern formula and be able to tell you how the differences in the two will show up when sprayed out. When I was having the front bumper cover on my 93 Riviera repainted, the painter requested spray out cards so we could compare the new paint to the original.
-
I’ve used CARS paints with good results. It’s listed in their Riviera catalog which you can view on line. Both in quarts and aerosols. I found it to be a good match to original parts that still had color to them. As was pointed out, Detroit Diesel Alpine green is to yellow. Ford green is close but you’re not playing horseshoes or throwing hand grenades where closeness counts.
-
1
-
-
The only safe places for a floor jack anre under part of the the x-frame, the front crossmember, the rear axle, or one of the A-frames. Under no circumstances place a jack under any sheet metal or a pinch weld. Be safe and do one corner at a time.
-
1
-
1965 with a 401ci...trying to pry off oil filter to engine adapter / housing
in Buick Riviera
Posted
If it won't come off, it's probably okay. Put the bolts back in, tighten to specs, and install the new filter.