D-a-n-i-e-l

Can you play a tape through the stereo? And does it sound OK. I am just making sure you have a reception issue and not a speaker issue.

Is your car running well? If it is I would reset the code and see if it returns. When our ingnition control modle (ICM) go bad, the car usally dies when hot of does not start at all.The module that you are looking for is mounted under the coil pack. If you are going to replace it I would go ahead and do the upgrade to the Magnavox coils. The is a thread on here that covers it, or you can go to Padget's homepage to see his write up on it. After all I believe he is the one that discovered the upgrade.

There is a green wire that is used for that, but I forget the position. Hey if you have a factory anti-theft unit in the car then it is placed were I discribed earlier. you can just dis conect it all together and use the exsisting wiring frome it to install your keyless entry.

Also check the timing ring, on the back of the harmonic balancer, for being bent or broken.

CPS crank position sensor, is located behind the harmonic balancer and there is not tool needed to position it. Remove the front tire and access panel from the wheel-well. Then remove the shock looking engine mount (it really does not support the engine, just dampens the vibration) Next remove the bolt holding the harmonic balancer bolt. Give the balancer a couple taps with a balet or brass drift and it should break loose. The CPS is held on by two or three nuts and a alining pin or two.

there is no reason to pull off your door panel. al the wires have to leave the door, and our panels and plastic rivits are kind of fragile. I would go to Reatta.net and find the wiring diagram for the door locks. My point is, leave the panels alone, they are hard to find, repair, or replace.

I would bet against needing a new ECM. Stick to fixing the spark issue. Have you checked the ignition control module? (and coils) Also the CPS, they are cheaper and mor common than the ECM. As far as the fuel issue. The ECM compares a number of things before telling the injectors to spray fuel. Among them are airflow, engine speed, and throtle position. So if your engine is only cranking off a week battery then your airflow is minimal and the fuel injection system will not be throwing mass amounts of fuel to the engine. Like I said look at the simple and cheap things first. (SPARK)

I would start with a complete tune-up and then look at the ignition parts (ing cont mod, cps, and cam sensor) code e42 (if I remeber correctly) is TPS. Reset the ECM codes and see if it returns. You may have installed the TPS with out properly adjusting it. As far as flooding the engine, I can almost promiss you that it is not flooded. The injectors do not spray fuel like a carb. They calculate fuel by using airflow engine speed and a few other factors. If the car only does this when it is hot, I would put my money on the ICM. Our ICMs are known for short life span and many issues. I would looki into doing the upgrade that can be found on Padgett's home page, and in acouple threads on this forum. Your other codes are from the body computer and should have no effect on drivabelity. It is very unlikely that your isssue has anything to do with your ECM. ONe last thing. Befor you trade in your Reatta, talk to me. I am sure I would give you more than a dealer.

I know it is a long shot, but this is GM we're talking about. Check behind the plastic(from inside of car, left of the driver's door, near were the the lower part of the seatbelt bolts in). This is the factory location for the anti-theft box. May be the wireharness was placed there. Like I said, it is a long shot but who knows until some one checks.

Most of your wiring (for an after market keyless entry/alarm) can be accessed under the steering wheel. I can not tell you wire colors because it has been so long ago I did mine.

The next time it happens, using the key, unlock the passenger door twice. This will disarm the alarm.

When I get out of Iraq and back to the states I will do the whole upgrade. I have already purchased most of the parts, I just ran out of time before leaving for here. I will be back state side by Nov 1st. I will make this part of my Reatta upgrade my first priority

There are also a couple relays near the fuse panel, but I do not recal what they control. To get to them you must remove the screws holding on the passenger side console cover and maybe the seat.

The calipiers are not the same. The rotors are sold under the same part number from partsamerica.com (aka schucks, checkers, advanced)

The 95 Regal and 88-94 gm full size pickups are a direct swap for the 88 and 89 Reattas, and the wiring is plug and play. But in 90 and 91, if I remeber correctly, our reattas went to a standard GM head unit and lost the TCC. There are many adapters sold, for under $20, that allow for the use of a standard single or 1.5 din aftermarket head unit. If you are looking to improve sound quality in a 90/1 I would recomend the upgrade to an aftermarket head unit. Installing one of these units is fairly painless. There are wiring harnesses sold to simplify installs. Also if you do not want to take on the install yourself, most of the major electronic stores will do the install for free when you buy the head unit and install accesories. This thread is aimed more twards those who want a improved sound and aux imput without loosing the TCC radio control in 88 and 89 Reatta and Rivs

bushings? which ones? I am not too interested in the C-5 upgrade. Too expensive and hard too find if you like the junkyard route. I just do not think the benifit would out wiegh the costs to do it and maintain it. You would probably pick up a tiny bit of wieght and they may not fit under a 17" rim. But I will research and see what I can come up with.

F-14, looking at your brake post I found you did have to drill your holes out. When the GTP guys do there F-body upgrade they must use a 14 mm spacer. So for us there is no drilling for this upgrade, we already have 14mm holes. GTP brake link: http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2434239&p=7&tmode=1&smode=1 F-14's brake link: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/88008/Number/374111#Post374111 I also double checked. The 97 Aurora and the 98-2002 camaro have the same part number for the front calipiers: Part Number: 56641RGS

Definately check the balancer. MY (new) one busted into five pieces before it had a one-hundred miles on it. (it was a parts amarica special) As for the body fuse, it is marked on the fuse cover panel. I want to say it is in the uper-left of the fuseblock or to the left of the block itself. I would go check but I am like 8,000 mile away from my Reatta at the moment. I have found that the body fuse is the cause of quite a few of my system failures.

F-14 when you did yor brakes did you use bushings, did you drill, or did you not use any thing?

if I remember I the same 97 aurora and 98-02 cammaro are the same part number so take your pick. You should remember you did most of the foot work on this on there F14. OH here is the interchang from partsamerica, aka advanced, aka shucks, aka checkers http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=RAY&mfrpartnumber=56641RGS

with the Camaro calipiers there is not drilling or having to use a sleeve. Use F-body mounting braket and caliper. OH and they are extremely light.

check the relsy itself first, snd then check the AC sensors for proper operstion. The relay turns on the comprssor, the sensors send the signal to the relay. It is a pretty simple system. Also check for broken wires.

How long has your dash been out? Before the no spark? or at the same time? Have you ever checked your body fuse?

If I remember right the black ones hold the speaket to the plastic and the bronze ones hold it to the door. to be sure pop off the rear speaker cover the screws holding the rear speakers to the rear plastic are the same as the ones holding the front speaker to the front plastic.

98 and newer cammaro and fire birds calipiers bolt up directly, but will not fit the stock rims