D-a-n-i-e-l

Bobby, I would almost put money on the power wire being the cause of your over heating. Look at it this way if you are running a 500 watt amp you should at least have a #8 wire (8 gauge). 500+ to 1,000 watts use no smaller than #4 (4 gauge). These are close to the minimums. Also is this a 2 or four chanel amp? and what is the ohm load of each set of speakers? If the amp is not made to handel the load it will cause over heating. Two sets of 4 ohm speakers equill a 2 ohm load. mos amp are not made to go any lower than a 2 ohm load, and even fewer are made to be bridged to 2 ohm.

Billy, I mean the original mounts, where the fog lights switch used to be. You had to have removed them to make room for the deck. Bobby, 150 deg F inside the car should not effect (to the point of shut down or major opperational issues) a properly installed amp. Remember wire size is basicly the most important part of a amp install. Are you running multiple speakers off the amp? or dual voice coils?

What size power wire are you running? and how long is your ground wire? Also with a over heating or hot amp I would not put in on the box or even near a sub. It may heat up and internal components may come free. As far as a sub in the trunk access door, I would not do it unless you have a free air sub. They are not very easy to find "in the US" these days. The book shelf speakers are not a good idea, they are mad for there current inclosers. If you want a decent replace ment and are not looking fo compitition quality, pick up a 6.5" speaker set from autozone (or any other parts store). They are like $10 each. Then get a set of tweets from walmart ($20). These will surfice for most anyone. All in all spearkers are not made equill, each is made for its own application. Billy, What about the original mount location for the fog light switch? You had to remove them correct?

Here is how I did it and everything is controlled through the TCC, even the DVD, and yes I can also use my Ipod or any other personal audio device. There are many ways to do it but I just like having full controll from the touch screen. I do not have a pic, but the aux connection is under the ashtray lid and is a standard 2.5 mm audio jack.

But you lost all control of the audio from the TCC. It does look good if yo are willing to give up that part of the radio.

Check your trany fluid and shift linkage. Also run a diagnostic, it may have one or two bad shift silniod.

Good to hear

No, I just had the chip reprogrammed, by Ryan @ GMtuners.com. I did however have to add a computer from a 93' Park Ave Ultra to control the 4t60e-HD trany. All in all everything still works with the exception of the trany diagnostic area of the TCC. I hope to fix this when I rebuild my other series one engine, and try to make a hybrid of the two tranys.

go to the dealer that replaced it and tell them to unlock it. Other wise it used to cast $60 at the dealer.

yes the rivs and tornados had it. Its perpose is to dampen vibration for the tranny. The reason the 91 did not have it is because the trany was changeg to the electronic version. Caddys used a build up on the front passenger axle to do the same thing as our little shock. So all in all it is an important part of the system, but as with so many things on our cars, there is not enough profit for a company to reman/produce them.

There are no new or rebuit supliers known. I wish there were.

reatta.net registar to access the docs

contact Jim Flin

I would go with the alt on this one. The BCM is probably cheaper to replace (less than $100 at Autozone).

yes

The ECM is the silver box that is mounted (up and down) on the passenger side under the dash all the way to the side. The BCM is the one behind the glovebox.

By hand, and it only took a minute or two.

I do not know as of yet how long it will last but mothers plastic polish made my rear lense fog look brand new.

I want to eleminate the portion of the radio/amp that turns down the bass as the volume is increased. This function is to protect factory speakers but kills great sound when a high performance speaker is added. There are a few things on the market that are supposed to help, but out of all the ones I have tried do not come close to fixing the bass roll-off of the factory unit.

I would guess yes. The communication buss realy did not change until 96' in GM vehicles. You can always test it. if it does not communicate it will not hurt the compass or the car.

Is any one here knowlegeable enough to modify electronics? I realy would like to do some indepth mods to a radio brain, but have no where near the knowlege to do it myself.

27, and had mine for 3 years and love it.

Mainly in the trunk between the speakers. I would look in tornados (torfeno), rivs, and caddilacs, from 87'-91'. I would also call or visit a junk yard that has an interchange and check if they have a interchange for the 89' riv compass.

KDirk, You hit it on the head with that. I belive I can trick the system into turning the red light on for a low brake fluid (just as in normal braking systems). As far as the ABS light, I thought it would be just as you said but the light is still on and I have not looked too closely as to why. I will look at the light issues this weekend. Thanks for the input, I realy do apreciate it. Daniel

I do plug my Ipod and mp3 player into my stock radio. Also, I have a DVD/MP3/CD player hooked in throught it as well. My Reatta is a 89, but I am sure that you can do a stock 90-91 radio also, seeing how it had a slave cd player available.