D-a-n-i-e-l
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Posts posted by D-a-n-i-e-l
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5 hours ago, wufibug said:
I'm sorry, Daniel, but where are your write ups on the Series I swap and the ABS replacement? Didn't the forum used to have a designated place for these writeups?
Also the reatta owners journal has also preserved the thread.
Glad to see that.
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5 hours ago, wufibug said:
I'm sorry, Daniel, but where are your write ups on the Series I swap and the ABS replacement? Didn't the forum used to have a designated place for these writeups?
Wow those are years ago. I will see if I can find them.
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I have not staggered my wheels but I do run 245 and it is a lot of improvement in the handling.
I think they look great also.
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On 2/16/2019 at 6:36 PM, Larry Schramm said:
Does anyone have a scanner that you know like a Tech 2? That can usually pinpoint the problem fairly quickly.
Another way to possible get into diagnostics on this car is to do the following.
Turn the ignition on and start the car if it will start and press and hold the OFF and WARM buttons on the a/c at the same time and hold the for a few seconds. If I remember correctly that will put the car into diagnostic mode ( it will on '88's) and you should be able to see live data from the data stream. This will include coolant temp that the engine computer sees which might not be the same as the gauges. You should be able to scroll through all of the inputs to the computers.
Engine temp when warm should be in the 190 F deg range. Remember that the car will not set a temp code as long as the coolant sensor sends a temp reading between -40 F and I think about 260 F the engine control module. That can be considered "normal" operating temp.
As for the fuel pump, two things to do at the same time. First hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Then get in the car and just turn the ignition on and listen carefully. It might help to have someone listen under the back of the car. When you turn the ignition on but not start the car you should hear the fuel pump come on and stay on for about 6-10 seconds. If no sound, bad pump. Then look at the fuel gauge. If the pump runs, it should have more than 50PSI. If it has less, then the pump is going bad. A good pump will have about 60 PSI. The car can run sometimes at pressures as low as 40PSI, but not well or intermittently. Below 40, the car will not run.
I could go on, but these are the basics.
If you need more information, let me know.
Just throwing out a tech two or any other scanner will not show more than the on board diagnostics.
One of the awesome things our Reatti do.
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On 2/18/2019 at 12:08 PM, wufibug said:
Daniel, that is a beautiful installation. Did you happen to document it somewhere?
What was involved in putting the F40 in the Reatta?
That looks like it might be a 91 since I don't see the dreaded anti-lock master cylinder there.
It is an 89. I installed the 91 abs system years ago. I did a write up on the series one swap, and would suggest that if you are not looking at building the motor above 300 hp. The series two is a lot more work and modifications.
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18 hours ago, Ronnie said:
Which ECM or PCM did you use to shift the 4T60E? That transmission is shifted electrically with solenoids that the stock Reatta ECM isn't capable of controlling.
When I ran one I piggybacked a 95 park ave ultra ECM.
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CPS is crank position sensor. Just to be clear.
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On 7/16/2012 at 12:07 PM, crazytrain2 said:
1989 3.8 harmonic balancer has just the single bolt going through it to the crank and having a Devil of a time trying to get it loosened. I've tried putting a breaker bar w/socket on it and bumping the starter with no success. Eithe the starter doesn't have the umph or I'm not getting adequate leverage, eitherway it won't budge. I'm considering heating it up a bit with a torch and putting a bolt or something through the flywheel. Thought it best to ask first though.
Thanks much guys
Half inch impact gun.
Just did an LS that took 15 minutes of impact, but it came off.
Better than bending two breaker bars.
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My first guesses are ICM or CPS.
Second. If you have used fuel treatments such as seafoam or a few others, I would replace the O2 sensor. Many times they don't send a code.
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12 hours ago, handmedownreatta said:
i don't care for the wheels.the allante had a 300 hp northstar.i suspect the engine cradles of the allante and reatta are similar.
That engine is far less reliable than a SC 3800, and the 3800 can easily produce 300+. With less cost and less loss of the Reatta's functions.
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Also if you installed LEDs or HIDs can cause this also, or just burnt out low beams.
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I know some are corrupt, I can't fix that.
Grab them before someone realizes what they are.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1j7rhZNXzdzuyFkpsbYrzs9aEoyK7w6dt
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Probably two separate issues. The cruise is most likely the cervo, or the vacuum line to it, assuming you have power to it.
Mirrors I would check for power at the controls first.
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If you install a relay in the initial head light circuit they work fine
Some times the will stay on for a minute or so, but I find that nice when in a dark area.
I installed mine in the interior relay area with a couple wires from a donor caddy
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Yes pull the wheel, you will need a lock ring compressor and a steering wheel puller. About $30
Buy a replacement lock cylinder, and not a cheap one or you will be doing the job again soon.
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Clean it off really well and use clear gorilla glue.
Otherwise start looking for a replacement.
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No difference
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Below the exhaust manifold.
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It's on the firewall side. It is put in from the opposite direction. I suggest a very long extension.
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Pretty easy. Two bolts and a clamp. Just keep a long extension and universal joint handy, as they will keep the cussing to a minimum.
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I would pick up a 94-95 series one supercharged motor. It will run about the same cost. The only additional cost would be the 5/8 heater hose, extending the injector plugs, memcaler and tuning.
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Funny.
To bad they didn't build them like mine.
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I have some polyurethane rear bushings left. In red or black. I kept a few sets around just for the forum.
PM Me for info.
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How to remove stubborn harmonic balancer (aka crankshaft pulley) bolt
in Buick Reatta
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You can now get one that has the threaded holes. It will make future removals a lot easier.