Stude17
-
Posts
563 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Stude17
-
-
Here is an article that gives an explanation as to "Why".
-
My 4 cylinder has a 1 3/8" bore manifold and the carby is the same so I would go with 1 3/8".
-
Looks like the remains of an antique desk fan to me.
https://antiquefanparts.com/circa-1925-12-westinghouse-style-516860a-oscillating-desk-fan-survivor/
-
1
-
-
Looks like 37 watchers but no bidders. From what can be seen various parts (and in particular the wood spoke wheels) have been restored to a high standard. Wish it was being auctioned in Australia.
-
Mike here are some photos of a Schebler R with intake manifold and vacuum tank for a 1917 Series 18 Studebaker (Four cylinder). The original cork float was not useable so I obtained a replacement brass float and soldered the float pivot/needle assembly onto it. Hope this gives some idea how it attaches.
-
1
-
-
Mike you might try following up this link. hkraft1 has not posted for a while but you never know he may still have them/or parts.
-
These lights listed on Ebay as 1920's Durant are similiar but not quite an exact match.
-
1
-
-
A "Southern Cross" built in Australia (1931-1935) by Sir Charles Kingsford Smith. See attached.
https://historicvehicles.com.au/historic-car-brands/southern-cross-smithys-car/
-
4
-
-
The other "thing" beside the oil can bracket is the horn switch. Operated by the button on the steering wheel via a steel rod down the steering column.
-
The "14" in the grille indicates it is the Flying 14 with the larger 1776 cc engine.
-
2
-
-
Circa 1939 Anderson Special Four Wheel Drive.
-
1
-
-
Flint looks good.
-
2
-
-
-
3 hours ago, halifaxhops said:
Distributor points adjusting tool.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134798802487
A similar Snapon tool.
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/snap-tk-30-ignition-tool-1807469566
-
Lee H beat me to it. It's a Wasco Flathead Timing fixture.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wasco-flathead-timing-fixture-sold-thanks-bruce.1112576/
-
4
-
-
The only reason that I can see to follow either sequence ie from furtherest to closest or closest to furtherest is that you follow the sequence chosen thereby making sure all wheel cylinders are bled. Just my thoughts. I have always used the furtherest to closest.
-
1
-
-
From memory that small recrangular trim piece goes on the floorboards undeneath the clutch and brake pedals for a heel plate.
-
Looks like a 1917 Model 85 to me.
-
1
-
1
-
-
This Studebaker Parts Book would be helpful if you don't have one.
-
5 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:
I was thinking Fischer Body Company. They were a general coach builder officially founded in 1908, and built bodies for numerous automakers of the era for several years. In the brass era of model T Fords, they were one of the top five suppliers for Ford's model T, providing common touring car bodies as well as the rare early coupes and I believe town cars. When Ford brought out the famous center-door sedan in 1915, Fischer built many of those for a number of years. Ford, even after moving the majority of body building inhouse by 1920, continued using some Fischer bodies even until after Fischer became part of the General Motors empire.
If I recall correctly, the body on my 1924 model T Ford coupe was a Fischer body (according to the builder's date and coding information stamped into the floorboard risers).
Clearly, this is not a Ford body of that era. But it could be from almost any larger other automobile from the Detroit area around 1910. Fuller Buggy Company could be a possibility, however, having researched Fuller some years ago, I consider that somewhat unlikely.
The "F B Co" stamping in the wood looks very much like the early model T's body stampings I have seen on original known Fischer bodied Ts.
I think you are right and Fischer Body Company would be a better fit for the stamping considering that they were general coach builders.
-
The stamping in the last photo appears to be "FB Co 4332". Could this be the Fuller Buggy Company.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Fuller_Buggy_Company
-
47 minutes ago, Mike Hage said:
This is where something aluminum looking melted. What goes in here? A guide for that gear? Part of the starter mounting? I have no starter. No idea how it mounts. Anyone have a picture of that? What holds that ball and spring in place on the reverse thread set screw? Also wondering about the front crankshaft oil seal. How did that work? Sorry a million questions. Thank you for your patience. Mike 
The hole your blue arrow is pointing is as far as I know not necessary and hence it was plugged with with aluminium or something like that. Plug it up again.
-
3 hours ago, Mike Hage said:
No no I have that piece. This is something that used to be in a threaded hole right on the face. Pretty much dead center of the driven gear.
between the 2 bolts on the painted face plate. This is a bizzare setup. We have a reverse thead set bolt with a spring and a ball. Not sure how to keep that all in there? Then on the top of the gear there is... well was a little nub that maybe turns separately. I heated it up gently with the torch and was goung to wiggle it out with needlenose pliers when Bang!! It went off like a 22 shell! Its completely gone!! ????? If someone could explain this to me how this all works? It would've made sense for the distributer, tighten up setscrew, turns a gear a little to adjust timing?
This diagram may help you Mike. I think the little "nub" you refer to is actually item 16990 on the diagram which is identified as a "Generator drive shaft plug" and is probably nothing more than a hardened piece of metal for the ball bearing to contact and take out any end float in the generator drive shaft.
-
I agree that it is for riveting brake linings but also clutch linings and I would say the punch shown would be for clutch linings.
1969 Mustang V8 - Brake pedal stays down when engine gets hot
in Technical
Posted
One thing I would look at is the brake pedal pivot to see that it is not binding.