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Everything posted by LouZ

  1. FIRST MOST IMPORTANT.. Brake system is pressurized, working pressure is about 2900 lbs. Whar we all refer to as a master cylinder is on the TC a switch with multiple valves, a motorized pump, & a reservoir When opening system for filling or any other reason key must be off and pedal pumped until it is hard as a rock..(No pressure assist). Front wheels are just as any other car. Rears are completely different. Switch off.. Pump pedal as described.. Jack up car remove rear wheels, crack open bleeders then reclose.. fill brake fluid reservoir . close cap.. Turn on key.. use pedal depresser to hold down pedal.. Open right side bleeder.. close when fluid runs clear (no bubles).. Do the same on left side.. Turn off key install tires etc. pump down pedal, refill reservoir. all should be OK. Good Luck, Lou
  2. When batteries go dead in the cars all kinds of strange things happen until they restabilize.. Did you turn on the AC.? In AC mode fan is always on. That will at least verify that some parts are working. If tit does work. The most likely culprits may be the temp sensor, or the fan relay. Good Luck, lou
  3. Hi BeeBee, Bottom of the mirror tiny screwdriver in the seam where the map light lens is, Pry lens out ... Lou
  4. Hi Larry, As far as the diagnostic things that you described to me-- We Know; but for the rest reading that was good info. I'm trying to start a dialogue with Ann I know the radiator leaked (She wrote) I would like to know - Where & How Bad - When I discover a cooling system problem I always Remove the thermostat, & boil the complete system out with "Arm & Hammer Washing Soda Till the system runs clear, and back flush from a heater hose if I can. I do this Before I disassemble Then when I install new or rebuilt we are starting good. I know she is up tight because of the problem but there are too many other things included like that fan running all the time.. did someone possibly move the AC control to on. fan will always be on with AC.. Lou
  5. Hi Noni, Please start all over again and I will try to help.. What is the year and engine and trans of your car. I would also like to know what exactly was wrong with your original radiator to cause your mechanic to say it was No Good.. Lou
  6. Hi Doc, Thanks for trying.. NO GOOD when I followed up on the listing they have what almost every parts supply in the country has nothing more.. Only for the V6 3.0 I asked them to please change the listing. It did nothing but create confusion. .. Lou
  7. The Top frame is mounted in the body by 3 screws on each side. They go thru slots in the Frame. They should be adjusted so the top does not hang up anywhere on anything. I have however found: sometimes after adjusting, the top has a tight fit on passing the tonneau cover.. Lou ~ ALSO ~ The 2 sliding assemblies on the window must be straight no bends, they must be glued evenly and equally on both sides of the window, and be lubed to slide easily. If they are hanging up because of rust. SAND them down & paint them use a spray lube that is called a dry lube. The same stuff small airplanes use on flap and airelon hinges. Lou
  8. I have heard a color on TCs referred to as Wild Cherry a couple of times before this. I also read a list of colors that were supposed to be TC colors. That list did include "Wild Cherry" I painted a car the real George Barris "Candy Wild Cherry" in the '60s. It might look close from a 1/4 mile away, in the fog, at midnight. We know Manufacturers like to name something using those famous "Candy" colors; but they usually use a color that is a 1 step process that kinda looks like the custom colors. These colors altho on Chrysler Family cars were mixed from a completely different formulas than American auto paints. And I have not found them listed in the formula books under Chrysler. The "Poly" brand I found them in was under Maserati/Italy
  9. AY, Hemi Anderson Hemi's Independent Chrysler Repair Has a supplier that cores new ones, Hemland@aol.com Good Luck, Lou
  10. Seems like you guys just don't get my question. I will explain... The 2.2 almost like clockwork seems to errode the head gasket in the back corner needing replacement at about 90,000 miles... The timing belt is suggested to be changed at 90,000 mi but under normal use is usually good for 110 mi. With age and lack of use we don't like to exceed 90,000 mi.. I am completely unfamiliar with the normal clutch life of these installations. The normal life expectancy for a clutch seems to be 90.000 mi., to 100,000 mi.. Is that also true in this installation. Alan told me once, these flywheels are very heavy and under normal use a heavy inertia force extends clutch life. ~ ~ NOW ~ ~ My questions are: Does the head gasket on the 16v have the same back corner hole corrosion/erosion problem. Is the life expectancy of this clutch 90,000 miles, or is it higher ... The timing belt expectancy the same or less because of the dual cams.. If you don't know, that's OK; but often with the kind of experience you guys have, you develop this kind of inside sort of more/ better than normal knowledge... Thanks, Lou
  11. Hey Alan, You know how it goes. The check cleared for the xB so I guess I must have enough for another car:D.. Lou p.s. you didn't answer my original question:confused: lz
  12. Hey Alan, Considering my short term experience with these 16v cars. Is 90,000 mi sort of the magic over the hump number for clutch, head gasket, & timing belts.?? Thanks, Lou
  13. Hey White '91, I had one act like that. The motor had good power in 1 direction only. Nothing I could do to make it go in the other direction. I took the motor apartfound the Perminant Magnet Field had broken it's glue seal on the inside of the motor case, and slid over until it rested against the other pole magnet That had the motor with double fields for 1 direction only.. I removed the field from the case/housing, scribed the position, cleaned amd sanded the inside of the case with fine emory paper washed all with acetone, reglued the magnmet in position with some epoxy. The magnet would pull itself tightly to the case; but I also clamped it till it was dry. Put all back together. Worked fine. Good Luck, Lou:)
  14. Hi, It is not a major problem. All the parts are still available new from GM . Yes that is correct it originated from a GM electric trunk opener. The top compartment was expected to be a dry place; but all too often it is not. First check all connectors for corrosion. Then if you need parts. Check with: Hemi, HemLand@aol.com Larry Carlson, info@tcparts.com or Marty Kolner. ArizonaParts.com New are available from GMPartsDirect.com Good Luck, Lou p.s. If you need part #s let me know lz. I just Completely Rebuilt one using EVERY part new, it cost $175.00
  15. How-bout the lock release switch in the glove box is it stuck or shorted.???
  16. Please Explain your statement. "Battery went dead and reversed polarity"
  17. Hey Osman, That click is a relay. I don't think it is the relay that is causing the problem something is turning that relay on or maybe not releasing it. But lets try them both. Open the trunk and make sure the solenoid that unlatches the trunk lock is not hanging up part way. It should pull the latch all the way and release all the way. The other thing is the relay. maybe it overheated and the pionts are sticking. If that happened it must be replaced. Good Luck, Lou
  18. OK White, Hang on a sec., I kinda thought that might be your problem. 1 == The special keys are available; but not readily.. 2 == Remove the lock from the Spare Tire storage compartment behind the seats, or the glove box. Take the lock to ypour local locksmith, He will cut you a key that may work in your trunk. The key that works the trunk al;so works those other 2 ... There is only 1 problem. Glove box lock & storage only use 4 tumblers, Trunk uses 5 . The locksmith may be able to figure for 1 less. It really depends on his experience and mindset. At one time the dealer could get your key code from your serial #... Good Luck ,, Lou
  19. The trunk key is longer than normal so it can fit past the thick emblem that's on the trunk
  20. Wayne, Try Hemi, Larry. or Marty. Good Luck, Lou
  21. Fran, Like they say on the TV quiz shows, "Good Answer" Hey Alan, As we used to say in NY, (when I lived here) "How's them for Apples.??":cool: ...Lou
  22. To the Lanes... Good Diagnosis. I will try to remember that one.. Thanks, Lou
  23. Hi, Generally speaking the auto parts store is your best helper in this case. The only problem is there are 2 kinds of parts stores. Those that supply the auto repair shops in the area and those that mostly sell over the counter to car owners, You want the guys that sell to shops.. In my experience NAPA mostly does that. Most of the rotors sold today are foreign imports that use a softer metal (more cast iron & less cast steel) Tell the guy at the counter that you do not want those cheepies. He will tell you. Sometyimes they will be made in USA, sometimes Canada. the same wit the Calipers and pads. Probably the best quality pads available today are "Lifetime".. Good Luck, Lou
  24. JDERDEN, When you have a new subject start a new thread. When you open the forum at the upper left corner there is a click tab for that, I just opened one for you. Please go over to that one and ask exact question. no problem just ask exactly what you need to know. good luck, Lou
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