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About LouZ

  • Birthday 06/29/1935

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  1. You are on the right track. It's probably still the HEP
  2. Hi, I'm sorry I do not have my desktop, (it's getting a big "7" upgrade) ; but on my end , below the reply window I scroll down in additional options, and find a click box called "Managing attachments" for adding pics etc. You should have the same. I should get my PC back tomorrow. If I do I will take a picture of my '89 fuse panel, and post it. Or maybe someone else will beat me to it..... Good Luck, Lou
  3. I think that black dye & vinegar is only OK for Black rugs
  4. I have not tried it; but I think the leatherique dye would work. The procedure of rubbing it in would be the way to go.. Lou
  5. Hi, Almost all the switches in these cars are made by "Guide". They are a GM contractor, and these switches wind up in Ford GM, & Chrysler. They all have the same basic design. A sort of a chinese finger puzzle to hold the knob on. and about a 1/4" round button with a light coiled spring around it, that sticks out about 1/4" from the side or bottom of the light switch that holds the shaft. All of the TCs I have ever seen have had a rubber knob. I believe you describe yours as Chrome. That may be OK, because They can be interchangeable. Remove neg. battery terminal. - pull out knob all the way -(to give you room to work) - where the knob meets the shaft there should be a very thin piece of metalthat is folded in 1/2, then a hole is drilled in it so when the fold is opened the holes don't line up and it grabs the shaft--Hence the "Chinese finger puzzle" description' I use an old Choke cable that was broken off short neer the handle, & bent like a hook, or one of those small hooked picks. I put the hook behind the knob and try to pull the knob off the shaft. when it don't work, I just rotate the knob a littl and try again. This pressure release only works on one spot around the back of the knob; so it takes a little trial & error. Because you have a different knob than normal; it may be that someone Epoxyed a knob on the shaft The other way is to remove the top "Glare Shield" ftom the instrument panel, & look at the switch, for this little 1/4" button. I have founf them on the sides, & bottom of the switch. Push in on the button & the complete shaft removes.. Again there is also the possibility that someone changed the whole switch to something else, but I doubt it.. If you still have problems, TAKE A PICTURE & post it here. Good Luck, Lou
  6. Hey Tom, You are in NJ "The Garden State" Alan is referring to the problems created with officialdom, in Calif. Where areas are blocked from the sun by smog. I have flown into LAX where the blackness that obscured the ground would make someone think they were entering the Twilight Zone...
  7. think the long one is not fully collapsed
  8. Do you have a service manual?? You must follow the wiring diagram
  9. Hemi, @ Hemland@aol.com, or Larry, @ info@tcparts.com, Marty @ Arizonaparts.com
  10. I run Mobil 1, Motor oil in all my vehicles. I use the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. In the TCs that don't get used very much, I change the oil every 6 months, I change the filter at every oil change. I had an '89 16V with 48,000 mi on it. I really cranked it up a couple of times....Well maybe more than a couple of times. There were no leaks. If any Visitor or Contractor, EVER dripped any oil on my driveway, I would have them clean it with thier teeth..... If an engine is in fact sealed the synthetic will not find any leaks where there is none.. Synthetic oil has a very good "detergent" package; but so does a good quality multi viscosity petrolieum motor oil.. That being said.. Your engine's seals and gaskets are 20 years old. Keep your eyes on it and repair any leaks that develop with use. Good Luck, & happy muttering, Lou I just edited my answer for 1 more thing.. KEEP YOUR PCV VALVE BREATHING SYSTEM CLEAN & MAINTAINED. It is supposed to keep a negitive pressure on your crancase whyle running...lz
  11. Hi, It will be somewhere between 70,000 & 90.000 mi. I will look it up tomorrow
  12. Oil Filters need to be rated to clean between 5 - 20 Microns. How well they filter out those sized particles is how they are efficiency rated in perctntage. If this is the case, the following is a good rule of thumb. A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size. In other words, a filter that will consistently remove 50% of particles 20 microns or larger is nominally efficient at 20 microns. A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove 98.7% of particles that size. So, if a filter can remove 98.7% of particles 20 microns or larger, it achieves absolute efficiency at that micron level. Most off-the-shelf filters are based upon a cellulose fiber filtration media. Most of these filters are, at best, nominally efficient at 15 to 20 microns. They won't generally achieve absolute efficiency until particle sizes reach 30 microns or higher. High efficiency oil filters have filtration media made of a combination of at least two of the following: glass, synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers. Those that use all three are generally the best in terms of filtration. Those that use only two will fall somewhere in between. The best of these high efficiency filters will achieve absolute efficiency down to about 10 microns and will be nominally efficient down to 5 microns or so. HOW IMPORTANT IS BETTER EFFICIENCY? The fact is, you would probably be amazed at how much engine wear could be eliminated simply by using more advanced oil filtration. In paper 881825 the Society of Automotive Engineers indicates that a joint study was performed between AC Spark Plug and Detroit Diesel Corp. The study found that finer oil filtration significantly reduced the rate of engine wear. According to the paper, the tests regarding engine wear within a diesel engine were performed using four levels of oil filtration. They chose filters whose efficiency rating was very high for particles of 40 micron, 15 micron, 8.5 micron and 7 micron sizes. The same was done for gasoline engines, except that the relative sizes were 40 microns, 30 microns, 25 microns and 15 microns. To make a long story short, the researchers had this to say: "Abrasive engine wear can be substantially reduced with an increase in filter single pass efficiency. Compared to a 40 micron filter, engine wear was reduced by 50 percent with 30 micron filtration. Likewise, wear was reduced by 70 percent with 15 micron filtration." By combining this type of oil filtration with the superior protection and cleanliness of a premium synthetic oil, you will virtually eliminate engine wear. I read a report about a year ago that, to my surprise, rated NAPA filter amoung others as pretty good..I have always considered WIX filters as my choice. If I could get them... Lou
  13. Hey David, Thanks for catching that..... Shelbyone... I wrote you that IF you had the v6 that would be a good possibility for a fix,, With 4 cyl the chance of that helping is much less.. Before you do anything Google Repair to chrysler 3 speed automatic transmission. It will probably take you to the other Mopar forum I mentioned. It will give you much detailed info on the trans..... Lou
  14. Hey, What do you have,??? a 4 cyl. with a 3 speed, Or a v6 with a 4 speed.. You will notice some of us list our vehicles at the bottom of our signature. That serves 2 purposes 1- show-off,, 2- info for an answer.. Lou If you have a 4 cyl this is not so important ~ but ~ if you have a v6 it is verrrrrrryy important. Trans fluid must be Chrysler + 4 ! ! ! Many times a fluid and filter change will correct the problem. One of the other Mopar forums has a complete section on just our 4 speed auto trans. Good Luck, Lou
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