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Posts posted by n1gzd

  1. I have the stock 263 in my 1950 Super (dynaflow). Do I need a lead additive? I am not using one for my 1958 Desoto because I think that this is the time that hardened valve seats were introduced. How about my Buick? I have seen lead additives for sale.

    On another note, I add TCP to my airplane fuel. Among other things it is a top lubricant. Has anyone ever added TCP to auto fuel instead of a lead substitute?


  2. I am going through a bunch of unused parts that I inherited with my car (before ordering other parts) and I now have a few questions:

    I have a "Car's Inc" igntion harness - the type that requires that you cut the end to the right length before putting on the terminal. Is that a very good quality cable or should I just get a factory made one for my 1950 Super.

    I have noticed that they make a Pertrionix ignition for my distributor. Has anyone ever tried one of those on a car similar to mine? I am tempted.

    These are the resources that I am using for obtaining parts. Am I missing any good sources?


    www.oldbuickparts.com (The Buick Store)

    www.buickfarm.com (The Buick farm)




  3. Yes. Fuel pump is on my list. I will probably send it to someone instead of trying to do it myself (because of the vacuum pump too).

    When I first try running this car I am also going to plan on caping off the vacuum lines that go to the windshield wiper assy. I am assuming that it will leak and I am not going to rebuild that now.


  4. Where is the best place to buy cans of spray paint for detailing the engine area (such as turquoise, orange etc.). I suppose I could get black locally.

    I noticed that the Buick Store has some turquoise paint in a car (but not the orange). However, on their web site it was a little confusing the way it was described. Are all of the turquoise engines including the 1953 Special the same turquoise color?


  5. My Buick has been off the road for 17 years and I don't know the history of the car.

    It does look like it has had some engine work (head looks like it may have been done at some point).

    I have to replace the intake manifold (due to very bad crack probalbly due to stuck heat box). I did find a good one.

    Anyway, I am in the process of stripping everyting from the engine and overhauling the stuff that I remove. I will try and paint the engine and other stuff as well because it looks kind of green instead of turquoise. I am planning on replacing the wiring harness. I will disassemble the wheel/brake assemblies and grease/replace rotating parts, safety related stuff.

    I will change all fluids (including all engine, transmission and rear end fluids), squirt some WD-40 in the cylinders, flush the coolant and check for leaks.

    I will replace the tires with radials (probably diamond back classics), and powdercoat the wheels.

    General safety check.

    See my questions in previous post about torque tube.

    Am I missing anything major that I should at least check before trying to start and drive this car.

    I know that it cranks because I tried that before I bought the car.

    I am sure that I will discover many bad things along the way and some day I will of course overhaul the engine.

    My main goal initially is to try and get it running and assess the condition of the car (and hopefully drive it a bit this summer). So again, am I missing anything that I should do before I damage something by starting it before checking the condition of it.



  6. Hi all,

    My other car has a propeller shaft. What is the difference between a torque tube and a propeller shaft (drive shaft)? My 1950 Buick has been off the road for 17 years. I know that this car needs everything but I am initially trying to just get it running. However, I don't want to damage anything that should be overhauled before running the car. I thought that I read somewhere that it is possible for transmission fluid to leak into the torque tube and get into the rear end and damage it? Is this possible. I don't know much about this car yet. I was planning on just removing the fluid from the rear end and replenishing it (and nothing else initially). Is there anything that I should do to the torque tube for driving it even a little. Obviously if I find some worn parts I will eventually replace them.


  7. Pete,

    I really like the idea of using some sort of custom support made of wood. I think that it will work!!

    I think that I will try a combination of that and perhaps inserting one new stud at each and as I work. I definately don't want to damage the thredded holes in the head or the exhaust manifold.


  8. I am removing the intake and exhaust manifolds from my 1950 Straight 8 (263). The nuts appear to be frozen to the studs. However, I can turn the studs.

    Here is my dilemma, I think that I have to remove the studs in order to remove the manifolds (intake and exhaust). However, I am trying to figure out how to do it without putting too much stress on the head (because as I go there will be too few studs holding the weight of the manifolds).

    I don't think that I am strong enough to hold up both manifolds and remove the studs.

    I think that I have two choices. The first is that it might be possible for a strong person to hold up the manifolds up while I remove the studs. This person would probably need to stand next to the engine if there is room. The other idea that I had was to find a appropriately sized engine hoist and hold up the manifolds with the hoist while the studs are being removed. I am just worried about damage to the head from the wrong kind of stress on the studs.

    Another idea that I had was to remove each stud one by one and as I remove each one try and install a new one.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for how I should attach this?

    Part of my problem is that I am not very tall and the car is wide so that my body has terrible mechanical advantage (I had the same problem when I installed the manifold on my Desoto engine, I had to climb up ontop of the car in order to be closer to the work).


  9. Yes. My Buick has 52 "fender spears". In fact, they are rather pitted and I am looking for some better ones. The previous owner installed them. I have not decided yet if I like them on a 50 but since they drilled holes to install them I am keeping them for now.

    Yes, a hangar is an excellent place to work on cars because it is spatious (even my T-hangar which is missing the back two corners). However, I don't have any heat or water and it is 40 minutes from my house.


  10. I think that it does cause some confusion. I am a member of a club called the North Short Old Car Club. You need two "sponsors" who are members to sign your membership form to recommend you. This is why I was confused.


  11. yeah, this forum can claim credit for me. I will definately join. I really appreciate the help that I have received from the forum so far. I have also found a local chapter to join too (Minuteman in Massachusetts).


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