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Posts posted by n1gzd

  1. I haver already bought my paint from Hirsch auto.

    Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions. I am planning on blasting the valve cover. While the valve cover is off is there anything important for me to check/lub before trying to crank the engine (plugs out first time)?

    PS: My carburetor, generator, starter, fuel/vacuum pump are all newly overhauled. I also sent out my vacuum motor but I did not get it back yet.


  2. I should mention that my straight 8 is still on the car. I don't want to pull the engine yet but I want to try and paint it. I am aware that this is a sub optimal thing to do. Currently the engine is Buick green. I want it to be Buick turquoise. It would be much easier to touch it up with the current color rather than try and change the color.


  3. If I steam cleaned my engine (and I don't even know if that is a good idea). How do I prevent water (block off) from getting in places like starter hole, fuel pump hole, intake exhaust.

    I was envisioning that you could do it with something like a set of various size rubber stopers that you jam in the open holes.

    Any recommendations? I tried cleaning the engine with a solvent but it is too dirty for that. There is no way that I can clean it well enough to paint (except the valve cover).


  4. That settles it. I will have them powder coated the appropriate red. I mean the entire wheel. I don't need the stripes because I have the full size wheel covers.

    Regarding my N-number. It is not my airplane N number (I do in fact have a small plane). It is my ham radio call sign.


  5. Attached is a picture of one of the wheels on my 1950 Super. I have wheel covers that I think are correct. They mostly cover the wheel but a little less than an inch of the rim shows outside of the wheel cover.

    Here is my question. What color is the wheel supposed to be. I was expecting that a little red should show outside of the wheel cover. However, my wheels appear to have several diffent paint schemes mixed together. The center part is blackish with three white stripes which you would not be able to see with my wheel covers. Were those stripes meant to go with the "skull" cap type of hub cap?

    I was originally thinking of powder coating my wheels with an appropriate red color (so that you would see it showing around the edges.



  6. Purchase the square shaped intake manifold to valve body gasket, the steel ring that goes between the exhaust manifold and the valve body, and the triangular shaped gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the valve body. Assemble these and be sure all the bolts are quite snug. Now take this to a shop where they have a large belt sander and have all the exhaust and intake surfaces clean and flat.

    That is what I did. I provided the shop with the gaskets. He used a big manifold belt sander table to do the planing. I think that the mistake that he made was to plane the surfaces of the heat box and the mating surfaces of the intake an dexhaust manifold. I don't think that he messed up the surfaces that mate against the head. He thinks that I can fix it but doubling those gaskets. I don't like that idea.


  7. Thanks for the info. I think that I am going to pursue this on two fronts. I will continue to investigate whether it is possible to salvage the stuff that I have. I will also search for a new set that has not been messed with and try a new machine shop.

    Anyone know of a good machine shop within earshot of Massachusetts (one that has experience with Buick straigh 8 manifolds of course)?

    Thanks again,


  8. Thanks for the excellent comments. It is obvious that the people on this group know more than my machinist.

    I obviously picked the wrong machine shop. I need to find a local shop that has someone who is completely familiar with these manifolds.

    Anyway, I did speak to him again today and got a slightly better description of the problem. It sounds like one of the main problems is that he plained it too much on the surfaces of the head box and the two manifold surfaces that join to it. Therefore the angle is now wrong. He thinks that if I double up the gaskets on either side of the heat box it might fix the problem. I am skeptical.

    As a related note, I bought the new style three piece copper manifold gasket that gaskets both manifolds (not just intake).

    I think that I am probably going to order two more gaskets incase this solves the problem. However, I am not going to let this "machinist" touch any more of my stuff. I might also look for another exhaust manifold and heat box. I have another intake manifold that I found. It has been welded but I don't see anything wrong with the weld.

    I hope that I can come up with a solution to this problem within the next few weeks.


  9. My original (263) intake manifold was badly cracked (possibly beyond repair). I found what looked like another one on ebay.

    I gave this intake manifold and my exhaust manifold and the heat riser box and the two gaskets for it to a machine shop and asked them to take them apart, reassemble with the new gaskets and resurface it.

    Before continuing I have a question. As you know, the intake and exhaust manifold bolt together as a single assembly and share the gasket and studs where it attaches to the engine head.

    My question is this: With these pieces bolted together, should the surfaces that mate against the head (intake and exhaust) be exactly the same. In other words. if you hold a straight edge across all of these surfaces (alternating intake and exhaust, should they all line up exactly). The reason why I am asking is because the intake manifold has those tubes that appear to be for alignment and preventing leaks.

    So back to my machine shop problem. I gave them the gaskets with the understanding that they wanted them so that they could bolt this thing together and machine the surfaces as a unit.

    After breaking a number of bolts and having to re-tap them (possibly this could have happened to anyone) he called me and left a message on my answering machine. He said that he is having an alignment problem and that it might be solvable by "doubling the gasket". I don't know exactly what he means yet but I am very afraid that he is going to say that he could not get the intake and exhaust manifold flanges surfaced to the same plane. Either he screwed up somehow, the used intake manifold that I bought has something wrong with it (I might know where I can find another one if that is the case), or my assumptions about how these surfaces should line up is incorrect.

    I would really appreciate some comments from someone who knows the correct way to overhaul these manifolds.


  10. can't run it now because currently it has no manifolds, no starter, no fuel pump etc. I stripped everything from the engine (and am overhauling them). I will paint the engine when it gets warm enough for the paint to cure and then reinstall everything. In the meanwhile I could spray something in the cylinders.


  11. I have not yet been able to read the number recessed on the top of the carb (needs cleaning first). However, I am able to read the AAVB-267 stamped on the side. On the chart below there is only one carb with that model number. I have a 263 engine and none of the ones listed for 1950 in this cart mention that they are for a 263 engine. This is why I am confused. Also, since this AAVB-267 is the carb that I have I will probably use it. I am just wondering if anyone knows why it is only listed for the 320 engine. Should it work fine on my engine? I would think that if it fits that it will work.

    1950 8 248 40, 50 Carter WCD 725 813

    1950 8 248 40, 50 Stromberg AAUVB-26 7 88 1216

    1950 8 320 70 Carter WCD 726 813

    1950 8 320 70 Stromberg AAVB-267 7 89 1217

  12. I was thinking of spraying something like marvell mystery oil in the cylinders before the first time that I start the engine (off road for 17 years). I know that the engine is not stuck but there is a possibility that some water got in it. The intake manifold is cracked (I have replaced it with another one that is fine). My machinist thinks that it was cracked in such a way that it can only be explained by ice freezing. I originally thought that it was from over heating due to the heat riser box sticking. Here are some pictures.




    I have removed it and replaced it with another one. In about a month from now I am going to go ahead and try and run the engine and hope that in fact did not get water in it. However, I am assuming that there is a lot of surface rust in the cylinders. I want to squirt something in them. Is marvel mystery oil the best thing to use? Is there any lubing that I should do under the valve cover?


  13. I was going to paint my 1950 Super intake manifold Buick turquoise and the exhaust manifold cast gray (right now it is rusty). However, someone told me that originally both manifolds were painted Buick turquoise. Is that correct? Should I paint the entire thing turquoise? Will the paint stay on the exhaust manifold very long?


  14. I have a single Stromberg 2bbl. The part number on it is very hard to read. It appears that it starts with several letters including UVB and ends in 267. I looked up this carb on a list and it appears to look like the number used for the series 70. Was it also used for my 56R with Dynaflow? If it turns out to be the wrong one can I still use it anyway? I am guessing that the answer is yes.


  15. I think that I have established correctly that my 1950 Super should have a body color firewall (which it does). Is this paint supposed to be a flat or glossy color. Also, what about the rest of the engine area such as the inside of the fenders. Is this supposed to be body color or black?


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