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Everything posted by n1gzd

  1. Forgot the second link: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/index.html
  2. Here is a picture of my 1950 Super engine running for the first time in 20 years. I am still in the middle of my restoration project which is not close to being finished though: http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/Buick/imgpages/image076.html You can see all of the pictures here. Some of them were just taken for reference (not pretty but useful). I also have a few hundred reference shots taken of a nice restored 50 Special but I did not put them on the web. Here is the beginning of the pictures. They start with some more recent ones and then it goes back to the day that I got the car. Rebecca
  3. Can someone tell me what size and type of plug I should buy for the rocker shaft for the 263 in my 1950 Super? I have the Buick part number but that does not help me determine what the size is. I would like to try and buy it locally. Rebecca
  4. That sounds about right. Do you know what size plugs I need. Is it the standard brass ones that look like freeze plugs. My local store has some starting at 1 inch (OD of plug).
  5. I think that I agree that I should remove the rocker and clean it. I would like to do it on friday if I can figure out what size brass plugs to get (and where to get it locally). I would rather not take it apart until I think that I have the parts that I need. Also, I can't find the torque values for the rocker shaft nuts and bolts. I am guessing 30 foot lbs (rather than the much higher torques of the head bolts (65-70).
  6. Another question. one another forum someone said that on the 263 none of the head bolts go through the water jacket (but they do on the 320 and 248). However, they said that the outside rocker shaft bolts can leak. Can someone explain how this can be? Thanks, Rebecca
  7. The aaca forums are not the only forums out there. For Mopar I don't even read these forums. I much prefer www.forwardlook.net, www.desotoland.com, and www.desoto.org for Mopar forums (forwardlook.net being the best). We should not be so narrow minded as to think that this is the best forum, there are many out there. It is possible that for Buick there are fewer choices so that this one is more heavily used. Rebecca
  8. ok. I will leave it alone and spend time on my oiling problem before I worry about why my charging voltage is too low (but indicates charge on ammeter). Rebecca
  9. I have not actually driven it yet because I did not want to do that unless I think that the rocker shaft is getting oil. I was wondering if it takes a while at low loads for the oil to start squirting. Does the rocker shaft actually fill up with oil first before it squirts out? Rebecca
  10. That 6.6 volts is with no lights turned on (nothing except ignition). The ammeter is behaving as I expect. However, I know that from experience that if your charging voltage is lower then the minimum (but high enough to indicate a charge) you will eventually damage the battery because it will be charged at too slow a rate. I am going to try polarizing it one more time to make sure that it was done correctly. I did not realize that there was any voltage at the VR when the ignition is turned off. I will verify that with a voltmeter. Thanks for your comments. Rebecca
  11. Bill, I am pretty sure that there is no restriction going into the filter because dirty oil filled up the filter canister. Rebecca
  12. I just got my engine fired up for the first time. I did not hear any valve noise or any other strange tapping or rapping. However, I also don't see any oil comming out of the holes in the rocker shaft. If the shaft is completely drained how long does it take for it to fill up with oil and start squirting out the holes. Perhaps I did not wait long enough. I should mention that my oil presure gauge was reading good oil presure. Anyway, I did shut down the engine and drain the oil from the initial run-in (got dirty pretty fast). I took the oil out of the filter canister as well. Then I removed the line that connects the bottom of the canister to the head. I verified that it is clear. Then I removed the tube that goes between the head and the rocker shaft and verified that it is clear. I also gently blew some solvent through the passage that goes between these lines in the head and blew it out gently. It seems to be clear. I only just found out that there is a screen that I could check if I remove the fitting on the ouside of the head. I could check that but it seemed to be clear. If people say that I should see oil comming out of these passages very soon after the engine starts idling then I think that the next step is to disconnect the tube from the rocker shaft and run the engine and see if oil is comming out it at an expected rate (what rate is that). I was thinking that it should not squirt but come one like it is pouring. If that looks ok then I was thinking that I need to remove the rocker shaft. Is this straight forward? Here are some questions: 1) What size plugs do I need to buy before I do this? I noticed that the local auto store has several kinds. There are brass ones and steel ones. Also, there are deeper ones and shallower ones. The brass ones appear to be the deep type. They come on sizes like "1", "1 1/8" etc. What size do I need? Is it hard to get the plugs out? Do you have to drill a hole in one and then hook something in the hole and pull. I suspect that you could use a metal rod to knock the other one out. 2) Could I get away with just removing the plugs, cleaning out the sludge and generally rinsing it (and possibly moving the parts while I do it) and it will be clean enough. I would like to avoid disassembling it if this is reasonsble. 3) What torques to I use to reassemble. I could not find it in the manual (just the torque for the head bolts which was 65-70 ft lbs. 4) Are there any gochas that I need to worry about. I am assuming that some of the valves will spring up a little when I re-install it. Is it hard to just push it back into place? 5) I assume that since I have hydraulic lifters I should not touch any of the adjustuing studs or nuts. 6) Since I am not hearing any valve noise now, is it a certainty that this little cleaning experiment will not cause it so starting making noises that it did not make before (I won't make it worse). Rebecca
  13. I have been trying to figure out the correct way to polarize my 6 V generator. I cannot find the procedure anywhere in the Buick shop manual. I searched on the forum and googled the web and found many many different instructions (many that conflict with each other). Can someone point me to an undenyably correct document that describes the correct way to do it. I am not really ready to trouble shoot my charging system yet but since damage to the voltage regulator can occur if it is not done (or done wrong) I wanted to double check. I have only just begun to run some stationary tests on my engine and I happened to notice that at idle and reved a little my ammeter is showing a normal rate of charge (1/8 inch or a little more depending on how drained the battery is). I have been putting the battery on a battery tender between sessions. Anyway, I did notice that the voltage across the battery is about 6.6 volts (I think) with the engine running. This is with a digital volt meter. Would I be better off using an analog volt meter with a generator (I don't really know how clean the DC is). The ammeter does show a discharge if the engine is not running. The alternator guy who told me how to polarize the generator told me this: Hook up the entire electrical system except don't hook up the field terminal on the generator. Then momentarily touch a separate jumper from that field terminal to the + side of the battery. After reading some other procedures I have concluded that this might be wrong. Should I instead, hook up the entire electrical system, turn the ignition switch to on and then momentarily hook a jumper between the field and battery terminals on the voltage regulator. If this is correct, do I need to disconnect them from the regularor or can I just connect them momentarily with a jumper? Rebecca
  14. for my 1950 Super I received a set of lighting terminal blocks from Cars. They appear to be the correct ones as per their catalog but they do not look correct (but they will work - just don't look right). One side of terminals is higher than the other side. I don't know why they would be made this way. The original one is the same height on both sides. I recently saw a nicely restored 50 that had the one that I am looking for. It looked exactly the same except that the terminals were the same height on both sides. Does anyone know where I can buy one that looks right? Rebecca
  15. I forgot to mention that there are more cars on my list but I don't have the money right now. In addition to the 50 Super and the 58 Desoto there are some other cars that I will acquire/build when I get the money (candidates are: 38 Century Opera Coupe, MGA, 59-53 custom - possibly Buick, 30's old skool hot rod, 57 Nash coupe, others that I don't know about yet).
  16. In addition to restoring my 50 Super I am also doing a rolling resto on my 58 Desoto. After the Super is drivable I will probably try and keep that running while I do the rest of the mechanical work as well. Both cars are registered but the Buick has not been on the road in 20 years (but I hope to try and get it on the road within a month). This weekend there is a chance that I can try and run the engine.
  17. That sounds like a good idea. I did go to NAPA and I told them what I was looking for and they asked me the year car and tried to find it in the catalog and it was not there. I think that your approach will be more successful. Rebecca
  18. Can I use an ignition condenser or is that a different value? I ask this because I know where to get that but I don't know how to find the part for the noise supressor capacitor which physically looks the same. Rebecca
  19. My heat pipe was broken at the manifold. I bought a new kit from Cars. This kit came with what looks like a 1/4 inch OD easily bendable pipe with a compression fitting to connect to the choke (and an insulating sleeve). The choke has a flare fitting (male end). The kit came with a female compression fitting). Is the flare fitting on my carburetor choke correct? In other words, should I get a flare fitting female end instead. The second question is this. How does this pipe connect to the manifold? I can see that a pipe comes up through the manifold from the bottom but since my old pipe broke off it is not clear what parts are to be removed before installing the new one. This is going to be hard to describe. I removed a ring of left over metal that appeared to be from the old tube. It was surrounding a smaller tube that looks like it is stuck into a hole in the manifold. Should I also pull that narrow tube out of the hole as well. In other words, is that also left over from yet a previous tube. Should there just be a hole in the manifold that this metal tube is just stuffed into or is there some kind of fitting? I have another manifold at home and at the manifold it appears to have some kind of fitting (pretty rusty, hard to tell). I am sorry that I don't have any pictures. By the way, I am getting very close to being ready to try to run the engine for the first time. Possibly this weekend. I am sure that I will have a lot of little things that are wrong especially since I replaced/overhauled the entire electrical system (and most other things). Rebecca
  20. I'll tell you. This is the dirtiest grimiest car I have ever worked on. When I first got started I needed a scraper to scrape off grime that was as thick as 2 inches in places. There is no pressurized water where I work either so I had to cart in the water that I used. I ended up using a pressure wand using a air compressor siphon stuck into jugs of super clean and then water. I really needed a steam cleaner. After I can move the car more easily I will probably still steam clean the wheels and suspension parts. sometimes when I am working on this car I get so dirty (head to toe) that sometimes it is a week later that some of the dirt comes off. I have ended up with perpetually dirty hands. I have also ruined most of my jeans (keep buying more for work - I wear jeans for work as a computer programmer but I really need them to be free of holes and grease stains).
  21. I did get them resurfaced and the manifolds appear to fit ok. Of course the proof will be in whether they leak. That fender cover really belongs to my Desoto but somehow they got mixed up.
  22. I still have a long way to go in getting my 50 Super running but here is a progress report. Last weekend I finally mounted the manifolds and began to install the wiring harness. Here are a few pictures (assuming that posting them succeeds).
  23. I succeed in turning the engine and installing the pump (1 inch socket though). With the plugs out it was easy to turn. Rebecca