Jump to content

n1gzd

Members
  • Content Count

    205
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by n1gzd

  1. I will check there. Unfortunately, I don't even know what this shock link looks like (what is so unusual about it). I know what I shock link is (I have two other cars with shock links), but I have yet to even find a picture of this one.

    Can someone please show me a photo or at least a drawing of the exact one that is in my 1936 Plymouth Coupe. I would like to better visualize it so I can understand any alternatives or judge if a part from another car is usable.

    Thanks,

    Rebecca

  2. I am told by a local old mopar parts distributor that the shock links for my 1936 Plymouth P2 Business Coupe are not available. I have the rebuldable shocks by my shock links are missing.

    Do people agree that this part is not available. I don't even know what they look like.

    The 37 and later ones ARE available. Is straight forward to upgrade to later shocks.

    What do other people with 1936 models have?

    Rebecca

  3. Thanks. It appears that with that engine I have the stock manifolds and stock carburettor. I was told that I have a 1941 plymouth rear end. I will see if I can identify any numbers on it (and the transmission). I will probably try and measure the gear ratio as well.

    Does anyone know what the stock rear end gear ratio would have been for my car (which was born as a 1936 P2 Business Coupe).

    Thanks,

    Rebecca

  4. It appears that the serial number is stamped on the left side of the block (toward the front on the side of the engine on the left side).

    The number appears to read:

    T3IO-25305

    It is clearly a Mopar flathead 6. However, I would like to figure out exactly which one.

    Is it possible that I read the number wrong. I looked at it several times.

    There is also a raised "D" on the top of the head.

    On the left side towards the rear of the engine there are raised numbers that appear to read: 1326306-4

    It appears that the intake manifold casting number is: 651259-6

    Does anyone have any info?

    Rebecca

  5. thanks for the info. I think that I now have the info that I need. I know how to tell which way the car is wired, what I was asking what the car should be not how to tell what it is (I don't know if the car is wired correctly - based on somethings that the seller said).

    I am going to have lots more questions. wink.gif

    Rebecca

  6. Thanks for the info. I will hopefully get my shop manual soon so I can resolve this.

    I will check the number on the engine ASAP (when I get the car home). It would not surprise me if the number was from the engine (because it starts with P2, I think that a P2 vs P1 had to do with the engine.

    Rebecca

  7. I am pretty sure that all mopar cars had 6v positive ground until some time in the 50's. Please correct me if I am wrong.

    However, my new 36 has a 6v alternator and I am suspecting that the previous owner converted it to 6v negative ground (I might switch it back to generator I am still deciding).

    I just want to make sure I know how the car was originally in case they did something wrong and this knowledge will help me diagnose it.

    How about my vin # question?

    Rebecca

  8. Although I have purchased the car my maintenance manual has not come in the mail yet.

    1) Does this car have a positive or negative ground. It appeared to be wired as negative ground but I thought that the old mopar cars had positive ground.

    2) The vin number on the title starts with "P2". Where on the car would I find a number with this format. The number on the right door jamb is different and does not start with a "p2". I can't just start searching on the car because I don't have it yet (but I have seen it in person). Is it possible that the title is using the number from the engine block or frame? It is possible that they changed the door and forgot to swap the tag but the number on the door does not include "p2" in front of it.

    I am sure I am going to have more questions.

    Thanks,

    Rebecca

  9. Hi,

    I have been trying to solve a cooling problem with my 263. Would a fan like this one help? (my stock one has 4 blades). Would this fan fit. It looks like it would.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1940s-50s...sspagenameZWDVW

    My problem is this:

    The engine is overheating (especially on hot days) primarily if I just came off the highway). On an average temperature day if I just drive down a road at about 30 mph (not highway) the temperature might get a little past the half way mark on the gauge (ok). However, if I drive on a highway (for example 60 mph) the temperature climbs up and gets pretty warm on the high way, but never red line (perhaps within a needle width of the white hot end of the white stripe in the center of the gauge (3/4 towards red line?). Anyway, if I then come off the high way and get stuck in a traffic jam (even a pretty short one that is a few miles off the highway) then the needle pretty quickly reaches the top of the gauge and the radiator boils over (engine overheat).

    I am thinking the following things:

    1) it is possible that these engines really never did cool very well and most driving was not on the highway. However, I would have expected that cooling would be find on the highway because there is more wind hitting the radiator. I did send the radiator out to get boiled, flow checked and pressure checked and they said that it was fine.

    2) Is it possible that if the radiator efficiency is 10% worse than when the car was new, and the water pump impellors are 10% less effiicient than when the car was new, and if the engine/transmission water jacket passages are 10% more clogged than when the car was new that it would be just enough reduction in cooling that I would have trouble now and then?

    3) I should re-check check the timing. If it is too advanced perhaps the engine is running hotter than it should.

    4) Would a different fan help? As far as I can tell my car is not supposed to have a shroud. Has anyone ever added one and found that it helps a lot?

    5) I think that "back in the day" people used to run straight water in the summer. According to what I have read I might get 30 or 40 degrees cooler if I ran straight water with something like RedLine water wetter in the summer (and then 50/50 in the winter). Were these engines meant to be cooled with water in the summer?

    Any other suggestions?

    Rebecca

  10. Rhode Island Wire says that the reason why they don't list a rear body harness (under seat heat/tail lights I think) is because they have never seen one. They won't build one unless they seen in hand an example of the harness from exactly the same model car.

    They do list it for the early 50 special (series 40), late 50 special, series 70 4 door sedan and some 51-53 cars.

    I am wondering if another model is the same or very similar and installed in about the same way (routing over the floor etc) such that the length is likely to be the same.

    Has anyone else ever found a pre-made rear body/tail light harness for a 56R?

    Just trying to decide on my options. I know that I can send them my harness but right now I don't really want to remove it. I might be willing to do it next winter.

    Also, the short front signal harness (in the bumper guards) was not included in my front harness because they say that they have never seen one of those either).

    Rebecca

  11. I recently bought new floor pans and toe boards from ebay for my 1950 Super (2 door). They look like this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-FLO...sspagenameZWDVW

    Initially I thought that they looked good. However, this might have been my inexperience. Has anyone ever successfully used these floor pans from ebay?

    I know that you are supposed to trim them down to what you need. However, I tried test fitting them and they seem all wrong. I would have expected that the edges would be stamped to fit the curved shape of the floor. Any comments.

    Is this a good company? They don't have any pictures.

    http://www.classicfabrication.com/

    Rebecca

  12. I was thinking of replacing my flexible fuel hose section of my 1950 Super with a fuel filter and two pieces of clamped hose. My flexible hose section keeps leaking (even the new ones that I installed). I was thinking that this might be a good place to put a filter anyway. Has anyone else done this? Do you consider this to be blastphemous? (My car is stock otherwise).

    Rebecca

  13. Rebecca, talk to "Old-Tank" before sending the shocks out. He has a thread here on how to fix em up. At $250 each for re-building, it's worth a look.

    Apple Hydraulics (according to their web site) charges $175 each for front ones and $145 each for rear ones (they have a core charge if you don't send them shocks).

    I was thinking of sending them shocks from my recent cache and they say that they will send you some right away if you don't care if you get yours back. In this case I don't care because they are not the ones from the car.

    Rebecca

  14. I ended up buying that several pallet 50 Buick parts pile that was on ebay for $250. I did not have to pay shipping because the seller delivered it to me.

    I have decided that I got my money’s worth if you even only count the grill and bumpers. I also think that having the shocks to send to Apple Hydraulics as a core is good to have.

    Here is the list. I am trying to decide what other things to just get rid of either because it is just junk (throw it away or sell it for the lowest price I can to get someone to take it away – $1).

    I have ranked this list according to how good it is. Can people tell me if there are items on this list that are hard to find (I should keep it if I ever think that I want it) and which things on the list are junk because they are easily replaceable at a reasonable price?:

    1) <span style="font-weight: bold">Front and rear bumpers</span> – very little rust (might scrape off with steel wool), still pretty shiny, a few surface scratches from mishandling – looks much better than the bumpers on my car (but I have an NOS rear bumper already).

    2) <span style="font-weight: bold">Complete front grill assembly</span> (all bolted together). – teeth look about the same as on my car – no rot, some scratches, pretty shiny. Bumper gards have rot in bottom, top part very nice and shiny. Could I use them as a core for Buick Boys?

    Includes front parking light lenses and metal trim piece.

    3) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 rear shocks, 4 front shocks</span> – can I use these for cores to send to Apple hydraulics so I don’t have to remove mine until I am ready? Is this a good option – the ones on my car look better? – do all of the rebuilt ones (that you can trade yours for) come out looking great – so that it there is no reason not to just exchange?

    4) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering box </span>– looks pretty good – use for core?

    5) <span style="font-weight: bold">Harrison Radiator</span> – core looks good, top neck was dented (poor handling). – at least keep for core – don’t know if the neck can be reconditioned.

    6) <span style="font-weight: bold">Mustache grill</span> (Buick 8) – pitting, not damaged – could be rechromed.

    7) <span style="font-weight: bold">windshield wiper jar</span> (not broken) – complete but corrosion – could clean up pretty well though.

    8) <span style="font-weight: bold">exhaust manifold</span> – do these crack easily (good to have spare) – no heat riser box – no apparent cracks, but after sand blast and resurface might be fine.

    9) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake – assembly</span> – manifold, carter carburetor, throttle dashpot and linkages, fuel strainer bowl etc.

    10) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake manifold</span>

    11) <span style="font-weight: bold">Set of front fenders</span> - surface rust, heavy in some places but no rot. A few dents in places that can be fixed (not visible surface). Some paint visible in lots of places as well (only very light corrosion on outside here). Undercoating still on inside. Which 1950 models had the same fenders (obviously Roadmaster has longer ones). Are other models the same?

    12) <span style="font-weight: bold">all steering related linkages</span>

    13) <span style="font-weight: bold">Water pump</span> – use for core. Are new ones available?

    14) <span style="font-weight: bold">Under seat heater core</span> – few fins bent but does not look rotted

    15) <span style="font-weight: bold">A bunch of stainless trim</span> – probably ok after cleaning

    16) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 drum assy with upper control arm and brake parts</span>

    17) <span style="font-weight: bold">Battery box hold down/shield</span> – some corrosion but not heavy rust. – keep this because some cars have it missing?

    18) <span style="font-weight: bold">1 set hood hinges with connecting rods</span>. – keep this because parts might be missing or rods bent (in future car that I don’t have yet)

    19) <span style="font-weight: bold">Starter</span> – not too bad looking but surface rust. – includes solenoid

    20) <span style="font-weight: bold">Generator</span> – rusty – looks like it could be completely restored.

    21) <span style="font-weight: bold">Air intake assy</span> – some dents and rust in tubular part, rest is fine – mine is better.

    22) <span style="font-weight: bold">Radio</span> – very rusty, chrome part that shows might be ok (clean it to find out).

    23) <span style="font-weight: bold">Oil filter canister</span> – complete, some orange paint still visible on cover.

    24) <span style="font-weight: bold">Brass Y fitting</span> for split in vacuum hose for wipers and cleaner. – can you just get a brass one brand new (I know that plastic ones are available).

    25) <span style="font-weight: bold">anti-sway bar</span> – are new after market ones available?

    26) <span style="font-weight: bold">Pulley</span> – surface rust

    27) <span style="font-weight: bold">Fan with spacer</span> - rusty

    28) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering column</span> – still painted but some little surface corrosion pits in the paint.

    29) <span style="font-weight: bold">Ring gear</span> – heavy surface corrosion but teeth are not chewed up.

    Rebecca

    _________________________

    1950 Super Riviera

    1958 Desoto Firesweep

  15. I ended up buying that several pallet 50 Buick parts pile that was on ebay for $250. I did not have to pay shipping because the seller delivered it to me.

    I have decided that I got my money’s worth if you even only count the grill and bumpers. I also think that having the shocks to send to Apple Hydraulics as a core is good to have.

    Here is the list. I am trying to decide what other things to just get rid of either because it is just junk (throw it away or sell it for the lowest price I can to get someone to take it away – $1).

    I have ranked this list according to how good it is. Can people tell me if there are items on this list that are hard to find (I should keep it if I ever think that I want it) and which things on the list are junk because they are easily replaceable at a reasonable price?:

    1) <span style="font-weight: bold">Front and rear bumpers</span> – very little rust (might scrape off with steel wool), still pretty shiny, a few surface scratches from mishandling – looks much better than the bumpers on my car (but I have an NOS rear bumper already).

    2) C<span style="font-weight: bold">omplete front grill assembly</span> (all bolted together). – teeth look about the same as on my car – no rot, some scratches, pretty shiny. Bumper gards have rot in bottom, top part very nice and shiny. Could I use them as a core for Buick Boys?

    Includes front parking light lenses and metal trim piece.

    3) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 rear shocks, 4 front shocks</span> – can I use these for cores to send to Apple hydraulics so I don’t have to remove mine until I am ready? Is this a good option – the ones on my car look better? – do all of the rebuilt ones (that you can trade yours for) come out looking great – so that it there is no reason not to just exchange?

    4) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering box</span> – looks pretty good – use for core?

    5) <span style="font-weight: bold">Harrison Radiator</span> – core looks good, top neck was dented (poor handling). – at least keep for core – don’t know if the neck can be reconditioned.

    6) <span style="font-weight: bold">Mustache grill</span> (Buick 8) – pitting, not damaged – could be rechromed.

    7) <span style="font-weight: bold">windshield wiper jar</span> (not broken) – complete but corrosion – could clean up pretty well though.

    8) <span style="font-weight: bold">exhaust manifold</span> – do these crack easily (good to have spare) – no heat riser box – no apparent cracks, but after sand blast and resurface might be fine.

    9) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake – assembly </span>– manifold, carter carburetor, throttle dashpot and linkages, fuel strainer bowl etc.

    10) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake manifold</span>

    11) <span style="font-weight: bold">Set of front fenders</span> - surface rust, heavy in some places but no rot. A few dents in places that can be fixed (not visible surface). Some paint visible in lots of places as well (only very light corrosion on outside here). Undercoating still on inside. Which 1950 models had the same fenders (obviously Roadmaster has longer ones). Are other models the same?

    12) <span style="font-weight: bold">all steering related linkages</span>

    13) <span style="font-weight: bold">Water pump</span> – use for core. Are new ones available?

    14) <span style="font-weight: bold">Under seat heater core</span> – few fins bent but does not look rotted

    15) <span style="font-weight: bold">A bunch of stainless trim</span> – probably ok after cleaning

    16) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 drum assy with upper control arm and brake parts</span>

    17) <span style="font-weight: bold">Battery box hold down/shield</span> – some corrosion but not heavy rust. – keep this because some cars have it missing?

    18) <span style="font-weight: bold">1 set hood hinges</span> with connecting rods. – keep this because parts might be missing or rods bent (in future car that I don’t have yet)

    19) <span style="font-weight: bold">Starter</span> – not too bad looking but surface rust. – includes solenoid

    20) <span style="font-weight: bold">Generator</span> – rusty – looks like it could be completely restored.

    21) <span style="font-weight: bold">Air intake assy</span> – some dents and rust in tubular part, rest is fine – mine is better.

    22) <span style="font-weight: bold">Radio</span> – very rusty, chrome part that shows might be ok (clean it to find out).

    23) <span style="font-weight: bold">Oil filter canister</span> – complete, some orange paint still visible on cover.

    24) <span style="font-weight: bold">Brass Y fitting</span> for split in vacuum hose for wipers and cleaner. – can you just get a brass one brand new (I know that plastic ones are available).

    25) <span style="font-weight: bold">anti-sway bar</span> – are new after market ones available?

    26) <span style="font-weight: bold">Pulley</span> – surface rust

    27) <span style="font-weight: bold">Fan with spacer</span> - rusty

    28) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering column</span> – still painted but some little surface corrosion pits in the paint.

    29) <span style="font-weight: bold">Ring gear</span> – heavy surface corrosion but teeth are not chewed up.

    Rebecca

  16. I am ready to buy a complete exhaust. I think that my best choices are Kepich and Waldron. Here are their prices:

    Kepich:

    all aluminized: $180

    all stainless: $445

    Waldron:

    all aluminized: $250

    stainless except muffler: $350

    all stainless: $450

    I was thinking of getting all aluminized because it might be quieter, it is cheaper and because I will not drive it in the salt anyway.

    So, Kepich is cheaper but I would not paying more for Waldron if anyone thinks that it is better quality. Does anyone have an opinion on the difference between these (including quality of customer service). I live on the East coast. I don't know which one of these is further away, but I suspect that I should check shipping costs for both. It could be that one of them is a lot more.

    On another note, I no longer have the stock brackets. At least this time around I was just going to install them with whatever works. I noticed that a lot of the custom shops weld a rod to the pipe and then insert the other end through a tight fitting rubber hole. I know this is not stock but other than that is this a bad idea?

    Rebecca

×
×
  • Create New...