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n1gzd

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Posts posted by n1gzd

  1. My 1936 Plymouth has a cowling that hinges on each side of a center strip that runs from the top of the radiator to the top of the firewall. there is a metal piece that the center cowling strip slides into at both ends.

    I just figured out that I am missing a chrome piece that is supposed to fit on top of this and pin it down so that it stays in place. I don't think that anyone manufactures this.

    Does anyone who knows what I am talking about know where I can get these two pieces? I thought I would ask before I spend a lot of time trying to make them myself.

    Thanks,

    Rebecca

  2. I am replacing all of the ignition parts on my 36 coupe. It appears that my ignition coil could be orignial so I want to replace it so that I can eliminate a possible weak coil from some problems that I was having earlier (just want to start out with new ignition parts). I have what appears to be the original type coil that is mounted stuck into the firewall (and it might be the orignal one - it looks old).

    Bear with me, this is the first time I have encountered this type of firewall mounted ignition coil.

    http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/PlymouthGallery/imgpages/image019.html

    The coil ignition cable has a threaded connector on it (screws on, not plug). One coil power site is on the side of the coil in the engine area (forget if it is hot or ground). Inside the car under the panel there is what looks like conduit coming from the back of the coil and it runs to the ignition switch. I can only assume that this is the other side of the power to the coil that is switched through the ignition switch.

    Why did they do this, was it a security measure (hard to hot wire the car)?

    Anyway,here are some questions:

    I am guessing that there is a way to separate the coil from the firewall bracket and the metal conduit on the back. It was not obvious when I looked at it how it could disconnect and I did not want to break it.

    I pointed a flashlight on the back of the coil and all I saw was the conduit but in a catalog pic (andy bernbaum) I saw what looked like a connection for the other wire. <span style="font-weight: bold">Is there actually supposed to be two things on the back, ignition lock conduit and power wire?</span>

    The firewall mounted coil in both catalogs that I looked at is very expensive ($129.50 vs $39.50). <span style="font-weight: bold">I wonder if it would be possible to mount the cheaper kind in the hole where the original type goes and somehow snake the other power wire behind and leave the ignition lock conduit thing disconnected.</span> If the coil is the same diameter it might fit in the coil bracket and look kind of stock. Has anyone done that?

    I have noticed that the later cars have the coil mounted on the loom thing that routes the igntion cables. I really would rather keep mine in the stock location.

    <span style="font-weight: bold">Here is another question: When I removed my old ignition cables I could not find a way to separate the two sides of the ignition cable loom thing so I removed the contacts and boot from the ends of the cables.</span> I have some new cables but I don't want to take them apart. Is it actually possible to separate the two halfs of the loom thing or do you really need to build the cables on the car?

    Thanks,

    Rebecca

  3. I guess the question that I should have asked is: how long is the water distribution tube? That would have told me everthing that need to know. Of course, now that I have seen a nice picture of one on another board I also know what it looks like (including the length of it and a nice description of the fact that you can actually tilt it down a little when you are pulling it out such that it takes a little less room).

    Thanks.

    Rebecca

  4. Rhode Island Wire says that the reason why they don't list a rear body harness (under seat heat/tail lights I think) is because they have never seen one. They won't build one unless they seen in hand an example of the harness from exactly the same model car.

    They do list it for the early 50 special (series 40), late 50 special, series 70 4 door sedan and some 51-53 cars.

    I am wondering if another model is the same or very similar and installed in about the same way (routing over the floor etc) such that the length is likely to be the same.

    Has anyone else ever found a pre-made rear body/tail light harness for a 56R?

    Just trying to decide on my options. I know that I can send them my harness but right now I don't really want to remove it. I might be willing to do it next winter.

    Also, the short front signal harness (in the bumper guards) was not included in my front harness because they say that they have never seen one of those either).

    Rebecca

  5. I recently bought new floor pans and toe boards from ebay for my 1950 Super (2 door). They look like this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-FLO...sspagenameZWDVW

    Initially I thought that they looked good. However, this might have been my inexperience. Has anyone ever successfully used these floor pans from ebay?

    I know that you are supposed to trim them down to what you need. However, I tried test fitting them and they seem all wrong. I would have expected that the edges would be stamped to fit the curved shape of the floor. Any comments.

    Is this a good company? They don't have any pictures.

    http://www.classicfabrication.com/

    Rebecca

  6. I was thinking of replacing my flexible fuel hose section of my 1950 Super with a fuel filter and two pieces of clamped hose. My flexible hose section keeps leaking (even the new ones that I installed). I was thinking that this might be a good place to put a filter anyway. Has anyone else done this? Do you consider this to be blastphemous? (My car is stock otherwise).

    Rebecca

  7. Rebecca, talk to "Old-Tank" before sending the shocks out. He has a thread here on how to fix em up. At $250 each for re-building, it's worth a look.

    Apple Hydraulics (according to their web site) charges $175 each for front ones and $145 each for rear ones (they have a core charge if you don't send them shocks).

    I was thinking of sending them shocks from my recent cache and they say that they will send you some right away if you don't care if you get yours back. In this case I don't care because they are not the ones from the car.

    Rebecca

  8. I ended up buying that several pallet 50 Buick parts pile that was on ebay for $250. I did not have to pay shipping because the seller delivered it to me.

    I have decided that I got my money’s worth if you even only count the grill and bumpers. I also think that having the shocks to send to Apple Hydraulics as a core is good to have.

    Here is the list. I am trying to decide what other things to just get rid of either because it is just junk (throw it away or sell it for the lowest price I can to get someone to take it away – $1).

    I have ranked this list according to how good it is. Can people tell me if there are items on this list that are hard to find (I should keep it if I ever think that I want it) and which things on the list are junk because they are easily replaceable at a reasonable price?:

    1) <span style="font-weight: bold">Front and rear bumpers</span> – very little rust (might scrape off with steel wool), still pretty shiny, a few surface scratches from mishandling – looks much better than the bumpers on my car (but I have an NOS rear bumper already).

    2) <span style="font-weight: bold">Complete front grill assembly</span> (all bolted together). – teeth look about the same as on my car – no rot, some scratches, pretty shiny. Bumper gards have rot in bottom, top part very nice and shiny. Could I use them as a core for Buick Boys?

    Includes front parking light lenses and metal trim piece.

    3) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 rear shocks, 4 front shocks</span> – can I use these for cores to send to Apple hydraulics so I don’t have to remove mine until I am ready? Is this a good option – the ones on my car look better? – do all of the rebuilt ones (that you can trade yours for) come out looking great – so that it there is no reason not to just exchange?

    4) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering box </span>– looks pretty good – use for core?

    5) <span style="font-weight: bold">Harrison Radiator</span> – core looks good, top neck was dented (poor handling). – at least keep for core – don’t know if the neck can be reconditioned.

    6) <span style="font-weight: bold">Mustache grill</span> (Buick 8) – pitting, not damaged – could be rechromed.

    7) <span style="font-weight: bold">windshield wiper jar</span> (not broken) – complete but corrosion – could clean up pretty well though.

    8) <span style="font-weight: bold">exhaust manifold</span> – do these crack easily (good to have spare) – no heat riser box – no apparent cracks, but after sand blast and resurface might be fine.

    9) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake – assembly</span> – manifold, carter carburetor, throttle dashpot and linkages, fuel strainer bowl etc.

    10) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake manifold</span>

    11) <span style="font-weight: bold">Set of front fenders</span> - surface rust, heavy in some places but no rot. A few dents in places that can be fixed (not visible surface). Some paint visible in lots of places as well (only very light corrosion on outside here). Undercoating still on inside. Which 1950 models had the same fenders (obviously Roadmaster has longer ones). Are other models the same?

    12) <span style="font-weight: bold">all steering related linkages</span>

    13) <span style="font-weight: bold">Water pump</span> – use for core. Are new ones available?

    14) <span style="font-weight: bold">Under seat heater core</span> – few fins bent but does not look rotted

    15) <span style="font-weight: bold">A bunch of stainless trim</span> – probably ok after cleaning

    16) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 drum assy with upper control arm and brake parts</span>

    17) <span style="font-weight: bold">Battery box hold down/shield</span> – some corrosion but not heavy rust. – keep this because some cars have it missing?

    18) <span style="font-weight: bold">1 set hood hinges with connecting rods</span>. – keep this because parts might be missing or rods bent (in future car that I don’t have yet)

    19) <span style="font-weight: bold">Starter</span> – not too bad looking but surface rust. – includes solenoid

    20) <span style="font-weight: bold">Generator</span> – rusty – looks like it could be completely restored.

    21) <span style="font-weight: bold">Air intake assy</span> – some dents and rust in tubular part, rest is fine – mine is better.

    22) <span style="font-weight: bold">Radio</span> – very rusty, chrome part that shows might be ok (clean it to find out).

    23) <span style="font-weight: bold">Oil filter canister</span> – complete, some orange paint still visible on cover.

    24) <span style="font-weight: bold">Brass Y fitting</span> for split in vacuum hose for wipers and cleaner. – can you just get a brass one brand new (I know that plastic ones are available).

    25) <span style="font-weight: bold">anti-sway bar</span> – are new after market ones available?

    26) <span style="font-weight: bold">Pulley</span> – surface rust

    27) <span style="font-weight: bold">Fan with spacer</span> - rusty

    28) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering column</span> – still painted but some little surface corrosion pits in the paint.

    29) <span style="font-weight: bold">Ring gear</span> – heavy surface corrosion but teeth are not chewed up.

    Rebecca

    _________________________

    1950 Super Riviera

    1958 Desoto Firesweep

  9. I ended up buying that several pallet 50 Buick parts pile that was on ebay for $250. I did not have to pay shipping because the seller delivered it to me.

    I have decided that I got my money’s worth if you even only count the grill and bumpers. I also think that having the shocks to send to Apple Hydraulics as a core is good to have.

    Here is the list. I am trying to decide what other things to just get rid of either because it is just junk (throw it away or sell it for the lowest price I can to get someone to take it away – $1).

    I have ranked this list according to how good it is. Can people tell me if there are items on this list that are hard to find (I should keep it if I ever think that I want it) and which things on the list are junk because they are easily replaceable at a reasonable price?:

    1) <span style="font-weight: bold">Front and rear bumpers</span> – very little rust (might scrape off with steel wool), still pretty shiny, a few surface scratches from mishandling – looks much better than the bumpers on my car (but I have an NOS rear bumper already).

    2) C<span style="font-weight: bold">omplete front grill assembly</span> (all bolted together). – teeth look about the same as on my car – no rot, some scratches, pretty shiny. Bumper gards have rot in bottom, top part very nice and shiny. Could I use them as a core for Buick Boys?

    Includes front parking light lenses and metal trim piece.

    3) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 rear shocks, 4 front shocks</span> – can I use these for cores to send to Apple hydraulics so I don’t have to remove mine until I am ready? Is this a good option – the ones on my car look better? – do all of the rebuilt ones (that you can trade yours for) come out looking great – so that it there is no reason not to just exchange?

    4) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering box</span> – looks pretty good – use for core?

    5) <span style="font-weight: bold">Harrison Radiator</span> – core looks good, top neck was dented (poor handling). – at least keep for core – don’t know if the neck can be reconditioned.

    6) <span style="font-weight: bold">Mustache grill</span> (Buick 8) – pitting, not damaged – could be rechromed.

    7) <span style="font-weight: bold">windshield wiper jar</span> (not broken) – complete but corrosion – could clean up pretty well though.

    8) <span style="font-weight: bold">exhaust manifold</span> – do these crack easily (good to have spare) – no heat riser box – no apparent cracks, but after sand blast and resurface might be fine.

    9) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake – assembly </span>– manifold, carter carburetor, throttle dashpot and linkages, fuel strainer bowl etc.

    10) <span style="font-weight: bold">intake manifold</span>

    11) <span style="font-weight: bold">Set of front fenders</span> - surface rust, heavy in some places but no rot. A few dents in places that can be fixed (not visible surface). Some paint visible in lots of places as well (only very light corrosion on outside here). Undercoating still on inside. Which 1950 models had the same fenders (obviously Roadmaster has longer ones). Are other models the same?

    12) <span style="font-weight: bold">all steering related linkages</span>

    13) <span style="font-weight: bold">Water pump</span> – use for core. Are new ones available?

    14) <span style="font-weight: bold">Under seat heater core</span> – few fins bent but does not look rotted

    15) <span style="font-weight: bold">A bunch of stainless trim</span> – probably ok after cleaning

    16) <span style="font-weight: bold">4 drum assy with upper control arm and brake parts</span>

    17) <span style="font-weight: bold">Battery box hold down/shield</span> – some corrosion but not heavy rust. – keep this because some cars have it missing?

    18) <span style="font-weight: bold">1 set hood hinges</span> with connecting rods. – keep this because parts might be missing or rods bent (in future car that I don’t have yet)

    19) <span style="font-weight: bold">Starter</span> – not too bad looking but surface rust. – includes solenoid

    20) <span style="font-weight: bold">Generator</span> – rusty – looks like it could be completely restored.

    21) <span style="font-weight: bold">Air intake assy</span> – some dents and rust in tubular part, rest is fine – mine is better.

    22) <span style="font-weight: bold">Radio</span> – very rusty, chrome part that shows might be ok (clean it to find out).

    23) <span style="font-weight: bold">Oil filter canister</span> – complete, some orange paint still visible on cover.

    24) <span style="font-weight: bold">Brass Y fitting</span> for split in vacuum hose for wipers and cleaner. – can you just get a brass one brand new (I know that plastic ones are available).

    25) <span style="font-weight: bold">anti-sway bar</span> – are new after market ones available?

    26) <span style="font-weight: bold">Pulley</span> – surface rust

    27) <span style="font-weight: bold">Fan with spacer</span> - rusty

    28) <span style="font-weight: bold">Steering column</span> – still painted but some little surface corrosion pits in the paint.

    29) <span style="font-weight: bold">Ring gear</span> – heavy surface corrosion but teeth are not chewed up.

    Rebecca

  10. I am ready to buy a complete exhaust. I think that my best choices are Kepich and Waldron. Here are their prices:

    Kepich:

    all aluminized: $180

    all stainless: $445

    Waldron:

    all aluminized: $250

    stainless except muffler: $350

    all stainless: $450

    I was thinking of getting all aluminized because it might be quieter, it is cheaper and because I will not drive it in the salt anyway.

    So, Kepich is cheaper but I would not paying more for Waldron if anyone thinks that it is better quality. Does anyone have an opinion on the difference between these (including quality of customer service). I live on the East coast. I don't know which one of these is further away, but I suspect that I should check shipping costs for both. It could be that one of them is a lot more.

    On another note, I no longer have the stock brackets. At least this time around I was just going to install them with whatever works. I noticed that a lot of the custom shops weld a rod to the pipe and then insert the other end through a tight fitting rubber hole. I know this is not stock but other than that is this a bad idea?

    Rebecca

  11. Gary,

    My blaster is a cheap no name brand from china (I am pretty sure anyway). It was very cheap $180 I think. I think that it is about 4 feet wide and loads from the side. it came in about 4000 pieces and took me about two days to put it together and then after all that it leaked so I had to add lots of rtv caulking. If I had to do it again I would spend the money on a better one. I will find out the brand name and post it (after I get back from a trip to Canada which will be next weekend if I remember).

    Rebecca

  12. Was it a lot noisier or was it just a little noisier? I think that not rusting is important to me and if it is just a little noisier it might be a good trade off. However, since a feature of this car is that it is pretty quiet it would be a good idea to try and keep it that way.

    I was thinking that mail ordering a "correct" exhaust would give me better results and be cheaper than having a custom exhaust shop do it. My husband just spent a fortune having a custom exhaust put on his 70 Cuda (beautiful TIG welds though). I have seen some prices of mail order exhausts that were pretty reasonable. It seems to me that it would be pretty cheap to install it even if I have it done professionally. I don't mind if there are modern exhaust hangars.

    Rebecca

    Rebecca

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