n1gzd

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Posts posted by n1gzd


  1. My 1936 Plymouth has a cowling that hinges on each side of a center strip that runs from the top of the radiator to the top of the firewall. there is a metal piece that the center cowling strip slides into at both ends.

    I just figured out that I am missing a chrome piece that is supposed to fit on top of this and pin it down so that it stays in place. I don't think that anyone manufactures this.

    Does anyone who knows what I am talking about know where I can get these two pieces? I thought I would ask before I spend a lot of time trying to make them myself.

    Thanks,

    Rebecca


  2. (questions at the end after this background info)

    My the metal on my hood is worn and probably some day I need to rebuild parts of it. I have replaced the hinge hardware that it hooks on at (on the car at the front and rear of the hood).

    I gather that the owner of the car was supposed to just lay the open side of the hood over onto the other side. I don't want to do that (scratch the paint and stress the hinging surfaces even more)

    I have two S shaped hooks that I hang on the radiator support rods (given to my by the prior owner). This is not a great solution either because it hangs a little bit low and you have to be careful not to scratch the sides of the car with the corners of the hood.

    I have seen fords with a prop rod that is bolted across the support rods at right angles (about 7 inches from the firewall). This seems to work pretty well and keeps the hood corners away from the side of the car. I got one of these prop rods (the one from speedway) but it is way too short. I should have measured one before ordering it.

    Now I am planning on building my own. I have a couple of questions:

    1) Has anyone else built their own? Can I see pictures. Did you go with one rod or two (our hood is longer than the Fords).

    2) Has anyone redesigned the way their hood hooks onto the car? This is really not a very good design. It should have some kind of captive pin that acts as a hingepoint (and you would have to unscrew the hardware on the car in order to remove it). If so, can I hear about it.

    Thanks,

    Rebecca


  3. The later readily available motor mount did not fit (no clearance to install it because it has 4 studs instead of 2 studs and 2 bolts. After trying to instal that one in the end I ended up modifying the engine side instead so that the original style rubber mount would fit. I got an NOS one that was in pretty good shape and installed it.

    Rebecca


  4. I am replacing all of the ignition parts on my 36 coupe. It appears that my ignition coil could be orignial so I want to replace it so that I can eliminate a possible weak coil from some problems that I was having earlier (just want to start out with new ignition parts). I have what appears to be the original type coil that is mounted stuck into the firewall (and it might be the orignal one - it looks old).

    Bear with me, this is the first time I have encountered this type of firewall mounted ignition coil.

    http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/cars/PlymouthGallery/imgpages/image019.html

    The coil ignition cable has a threaded connector on it (screws on, not plug). One coil power site is on the side of the coil in the engine area (forget if it is hot or ground). Inside the car under the panel there is what looks like conduit coming from the back of the coil and it runs to the ignition switch. I can only assume that this is the other side of the power to the coil that is switched through the ignition switch.

    Why did they do this, was it a security measure (hard to hot wire the car)?

    Anyway,here are some questions:

    I am guessing that there is a way to separate the coil from the firewall bracket and the metal conduit on the back. It was not obvious when I looked at it how it could disconnect and I did not want to break it.

    I pointed a flashlight on the back of the coil and all I saw was the conduit but in a catalog pic (andy bernbaum) I saw what looked like a connection for the other wire. <span style="font-weight: bold">Is there actually supposed to be two things on the back, ignition lock conduit and power wire?</span>

    The firewall mounted coil in both catalogs that I looked at is very expensive ($129.50 vs $39.50). <span style="font-weight: bold">I wonder if it would be possible to mount the cheaper kind in the hole where the original type goes and somehow snake the other power wire behind and leave the ignition lock conduit thing disconnected.</span> If the coil is the same diameter it might fit in the coil bracket and look kind of stock. Has anyone done that?

    I have noticed that the later cars have the coil mounted on the loom thing that routes the igntion cables. I really would rather keep mine in the stock location.

    <span style="font-weight: bold">Here is another question: When I removed my old ignition cables I could not find a way to separate the two sides of the ignition cable loom thing so I removed the contacts and boot from the ends of the cables.</span> I have some new cables but I don't want to take them apart. Is it actually possible to separate the two halfs of the loom thing or do you really need to build the cables on the car?

    Thanks,

    Rebecca


  5. I guess the question that I should have asked is: how long is the water distribution tube? That would have told me everthing that need to know. Of course, now that I have seen a nice picture of one on another board I also know what it looks like (including the length of it and a nice description of the fact that you can actually tilt it down a little when you are pulling it out such that it takes a little less room).

    Thanks.

    Rebecca


  6. I have thought about this and I have decide to use the readily available later style rubber mount (cheaper and matches my engine). I will fix the lower end instead.

    I will buy the later style rubber mount (studs straight through such that the spacing is the same on the top and bottom). This will fit my engine but not the cross member from 36.

    Then I will either elongate the holes in the lower cross member (make the spacing wider) and hope that it won't shift (I don't think so since the studs in the upper side go through holes and they are the same studs and the force is mostly up and down one side at a time.

    The second option for using this readily available engine mount is instead of modifying the cross member that I have I could try and use the newer U shaped cross member. This would make maintenance easier (because it could be removed more easily (without removing the harmonic balancer and fenders). I favor this option but I could start with modifying my current one (nothing to loose) and switch it later when I need to remove the timing chain cover - UNLESS I FIND ONE VERY SOON TO TRY - anyone got one for sale).

    Rebecca


  7. I have a 1936 Plymouth with a 1952 230 CI Dodge engine. It is installed (and the car was sort of drivable).

    However the bottom studs on the rubber engine mount that is in the car (which is the original one) fit the stud holes in the engine support brace but the bolt holes on the top part of the mount do not line up with the holes on the bracket on the 52 engine. This is of course because this mount was meant for the 36 engine.

    I don't think that the mount for the 52 engine will fit the 36 engine support brace.

    Has anyone ever done this conversion?

    <span style="font-weight: bold">Is it possible to use the engine support brace from a later year?</span> Would this actually make maintenance easier? Mine encircles the front of the engine area where it appears that the later models are only U shaped making certain maintenance easier (such as removing timing chain cover - with 36 the manual says that you have to remove the fenders).

    Another idea would be for me to use the 36 engine mount but widen the holes on the top engine bracket (just cut a slot working out from the upper holes until it is wide enough to get the bolt in). I would think that the force on the bolts is mostly up and down anyway (as it rocks).

    Another solution would be to try and build a custom engine mount that is similar to the design of the one on the later models but it would have to be custom made to fit the bottom mount.

    I am sorry if this is confusing. I think that if someone has encountered this problem they would hopefully understand what I am saying.

    Rebecca


  8. I am pretty sure that my engine mounts are terrible.

    Today it just occurred to me that this could also be the cause of my bad flooding problem. I got the carburetor overhauled by a good local shop and the problem is still happening. I double checked that the float level looks perfect.

    I just occurred to me that if the engine was shaking a lot from side to side, the float would bob up and down a lot and cause the stop that pushes the horrizontally mounted needle valve in and out such that it would keep letting the fuel in even though the float level is correct.

    Has anyone ever heard of a very bad engine mount (I will fix th is of course) causing fuel flooding problems?

    Rebecca


  9. Does anyone have any picture of their seat belt installation in a 36 coupe (or equivalent car). Are lap belts only simple choice. In my Desoto I just drilled holes in the floor just behind the front seat and installed a doubler with the hardware.

    I have never installed seat belts in a Coupe. Is a lap belt installed the same way the best choice or are there other alternatives (even harness?)?

    Pictures?

    Thanks,

    Rebecca