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wpoll

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Everything posted by wpoll

  1. This may not be the correct forum for this question, but unfortunately it's a last resort.....Iv'e got a 1986 Maserati Spyder (convertible version of the 6 cylinder Bi-Turbo)...these are not complex as one might think....But I'm having a strange brake issue that no one can seem to help me on...when the car is started (without even getting in) the brakes lock up. That's right, the brakes lock up after approximately 2-3 minutes, all without touching the brake pedal. Once the car is shut down, after approximately 30 minutes, the brakes release....strangest damned thing I've ever encoutered...The system is a typical GM American style system utilizing a vaccum power booster, and master cylinder. has anyone out there ever encountered this in any vehicle at all??? Thanks, Wayne<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  2. This may not be the correct forum for this question, but unfortunately it's a last resort.....Iv'e got a 1986 Maserati Spyder (convertible version of the 6 cylinder Bi-Turbo)...these are not complex as one might think....But I'm having a strange brake issue that no one can seem to help me on...when the car is started (without even getting in) the brakes lock up. That's right, the brakes lock up after approximately 2-3 minutes, all without touching the brake pedal. Once the car is shut down, after approximately 30 minutes, the brakes release....strangest damned thing I've ever encoutered...The system is a typical GM American style system utilizing a vaccum power booster, and master cylinder. has anyone out there ever encountered this in any vehicle at all??? Thanks, Wayne<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  3. This may not be the correct forum for this question, but unfortunately it's a last resort.....Iv'e got a 1986 Maserati Spyder (convertible version of the 6 cylinder Bi-Turbo)...these are not complex as one might think....But I'm having a strange brake issue that no one can seem to help me on...when the car is started (without even getting in) the brakes lock up. That's right, the brakes lock up after approximately 2-3 minutes, all without touching the brake pedal. Once the car is shut down, after approximately 30 minutes, the brakes release....strangest damned thing I've ever encoutered...The system is a typical GM American style system utilizing a vaccum power booster, and master cylinder. has anyone out there ever encountered this in any vehicle at all??? Thanks, Wayne
  4. Hello all! well, after shipping back the wrong color dye sent to me by Leatherique, and still no reponse from anyone there, I had to dispute the $95 charge on my credit card. It amazes me how these people try and swindle the public! I ended up purchasing a dye kit from Color-Plus (dead on, thanks to Joanne Price) for a little over $100, so hopefully my CC company will remove the fraudulent charge from Leatherique. Members beware! Stay away from the swindlers at Leatherique!!
  5. :mad: After waiting weeks for my Leatherique dye order with no return calls from the bubbleheaded 'Christy' who I guess, 'works' there...The order finally arrived...Lou Z. wasn't kidding when he said "watch the color"...Wow! I couldv'e mixed a better batch of dye with dark sunglasses on! The color is so far off I can't use this dye unless I want to turn my interior into an ad for Orange Crush soda! Into the third telephone call now, I guess I'm just going to have to return, and then dispute the charge on my CC.... Members beware.....Leatherique has gone directly downhill! My mechanic used dye purchased from Joanne Price at Color Plus, and the match was dead on (66 Mustang)...that's my next phone call.....
  6. Hello one and all, hope you all had problem free topless summers this year. Well, this past spring I sold my 89 T2 TC to a gentleman from NY who loves the car! So I decided I wanted to go with something completely different, perhaps a British, or Italian little two-seater, but didn't want to spend much more than what I sold the TC for ($3,000)....So....I started looking at everyting, and let me tell you all.. the Brit and Italian cars are all trash in that price range, and need metal work, interior work, etc... And you know what? None of them (other than the Jag XJS) are as sharp looking as these TC's! Anyway, after wasting a lot (a lot!) of time I decided to look at the TC's again...Found one local to me (Boston area) a 90 with the Mitsu V6 engine. Very clean and straight, needs little...but after learning sooo much about my T2 Turbo, I realized I know nothing about these V6 cars....so, any advice you all can throw my way about this V6 motor, and tranny, any bugs, goblins, etc,,,,would me mucho appreciated...I searched the forum for V6, but for some reason, get nothing..... Keep in mind I know the TC very well... Just not this drivetrain... OK, thanks all..... wpoll
  7. I know this is probably a post no one will want to reply to, but here goes; I am contemplating purchasing a 1990-1995 Mercedes SL Convertible with the 3.0, or 3.2 L engine. I have owned several vintage / semi-vintage vehicles in the past, some of which I restored, drove, then sold, but never a Mercedes SL, which in my opinion, is one of the sleekest looking cars that has ever been built. That being said, the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on a purchase is the reputation Mercedes' have for high cost parts, and repairs. I would like to reach out to any Mercedes (especially SL) owners/aficionados to share their thoughts, opinions, comments, and all else involved about purchasing, owning, and driving these cars. I would be purchasing a car with approximately 100k-125k miles, so I would like to know what expected costs I would be incurring with a car with this mileage. P.S. The reason why I want the 6 cylinder over the 8, is that I'm told the 6 is more reliable, lighter, easier to work on, and less costly to repair.... Again, your thoughts are very much appreciated. Thank you, <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Wayne</st1:City></st1:place>
  8. I know this is probably a post no one will want to reply to, but here goes; I am contemplating purchasing a 1985-1995 Jaguar XJS Convertible with the IE 6 cylinder engine. while I absolutely love these Jags, I know nothing of them, other than their notoriety for failure. I have owned several vintage / semi-vintage vehicles in the past, some of which I restored, drove, then sold, but never a Jag XJS, which in my opinion, is one of the sleekest looking cars that has ever been built. That being said, the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on a purchase is the reputation Jags have for poor quality, and reliability. I would like to reach out to any Jag (especially XJS) owners/afficianados to share their thoughts, opinions, comments, and all else involved about purchasing, owning, and driving these cars. P.S. The reason why I want the 6 cylinder over the 12, is that I'm told the 6 is much more reliable, lighter, easier to work on, and less costly to repair.... Again, your thoughts are very much appreciated. Thank you, Wayne
  9. Hello to all! A quick question for anyone who has had to change out the top pull down motor. My "89 needs a new one, and I see quite a few on Ebay from GM, Dorman, etc... Are any of these interchangable with our TC pull down assemblies?? The GM / Cadillac trunk pull down units look a lot like what we've got for top pull down units....
  10. 1989 CHRYSLER TC by MASERATI 2.2L 4 CYL TURBO, 90k original miles Royal Cabernet / Ginger Recent work: New head & gasket including; Head bolts, Guides & seals, Valve seat grinding, Pressure test, Valve cover & gasket, Thermostat, Starter, Water pump, O2 sensors, Alternator, Timing Belt, Accessory belts, Vacuum lines, Coolant sensor, Fan sensor, Battery, Axles, Brakes, Struts, New paint, New Tires, Oil change, Transmission fluid & filter.<O:p</O:p Originally a <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:State>Florida car, I am the second owner, although I purchased from a dealer in <st1:City w:st="on">Orlando</st1:City> who didn't drive the car. The original owner was the Commodore of the Palm Beach Yacht Club, who put 89,000 miles on this car. Car still bears the PBYC sticker. I have put a lot of mechanical work into this car. Not original paint. Paint was oxidized, so I had it painted at Macco, who did a lousy job in my opinion, but car looks very presentable. The car had a few small shopping cart dings on the doors, those were repaired. The steering wheel is not original, it’s a wood Momo wheel and was on the car when I purchased. It’s not a show car, but could be. There is absolutely no rust on the undercarriage at all, typical of a true <st1:State w:st="on"><ST1:pFlorida</ST1:place</st1:State> vehicle. The interior is in very, very good condition with no tears in the seats, or dash, with nice color still showing, other than 2 areas noted below. Car comes with the hard top also, which was not painted with the car. It is in very good condition, only the paint is faded. The soft top is black, and in very good shape. If you’re looking for a good deal on a TC that you can hop into and go with no headaches, this is your vehicle. If maintained properly, you will get years of problem free fun with this car, whereas all the major work has been done. Car has never seen winter, and is never driven in the rain! Car is stored in heated garage in <st1:City w:st="on"><ST1:pBoston</st1:City> where it can be driven, but is not registered until late spring. Car needs:1. Top pull down motor housing is cracked, so will not pull down pins. Motor is good, runs, but gear housing is cracked 2.Oil pressure sensor or gauge is shot. Will have repaired prior to sale if possible. 3. Interior: Armrest has a small hole size of a dime at the back. It is directly between the two seat backs, so can't be seen unless you're looking for it. / Driver's door panel has discoloration where driver rested their arm. Could be easily dyed. Price is firm, I have too much $$$ invested. If I can't sell by spring, am willing to part out. Not sure how to post pics here, but have ten pics of the car I will email to anyone interested. my email address: waynemp@rcn.com <O:p</O:p Thanks, Wayne
  11. Hi to all you Reatta fans! I own a chrysler TC with the same Teves ABS brake system as yours. I'm trying to locate the proper relays, (there are three) and have had Noooooo luck! Chrysler dealers say obsolete, and haven't had any help on my Chrysler TC forum pages. Anyone happen to know what the proper relays are for this system, or perhaps a good starting source? Thanks to all, Wayne
  12. :confused: Well, I garaged the TC for the winter last November, everything was running fine after spending $mucho diniero$. Went to start her up today, she cranked right over, but both my ABS (yellow) and Brakes (red) lights are on, and I have no brakes.... Looked for loose wires, a common issue, but this time no luck... The ABS relays look REAL old, maybe it's time to replace (?) but...I can't find an OEM part # for them. I turn the key, no pump motor sound at all... last winter we performed the following; new calipers, rotors & pads, bled & filled system ... she ran fine for one month before storing her for the winter...anyhow, I searched the threads here, and nobody seems to mention a part # for the relays, or if they're still available as a dealer item (if that's even the issue, but gotta start somewheres..) Thanks to all, Wayne 60 degrees in Boston today...almost TC weather YEAH!!!!!
  13. Pics look pretty good Lou. Was thinking of purchasing this product to treat parts of my '89 ginger interior. You mention it's more like a 'paint', that sits on the surface rather than absorbing (which would make sense). It didn't smell like latex paint at all, did it ? How do you think this will hold up on the seats?? Gotta figure they'rte going to see the most abuse.
  14. After all the work, time, and needless to say $$ put into this car, I've decided to let it go... Mechanically she's a jewel, interior is great, there's a small hole in the back panel of the armrest, can't see it unless you're looking. Had it painted at Maaco for short $$ just to get it looking good for the summer, and well...you know Maacco. Didn't come out too bad, but the few shopping cart dings in the doors would have come out a lot better had I spent big $$ and got it done somewhere other than Maacco. On the plus side, The Royal Cabernet paint's a perfect match, and looks pretty darn good whereas they wet sanded, and buffed the top panels. Mechanically, she's all set, read the ad, and it tells you everything you need to know. Just about everything's been replaced, I have all reciepts. She runs and drives great, my goal was to make the car reliable so that me and the wife could take her anywhere on the weekends. This goal was accomplished, I've driven her to Canada through Maine, and back, not so much as rattle, burp, or hiccup . She rides real nice too. Take a look, I've got it listed for $4,500, but I'll let it go for $4k. You won't have to spend a dime on her. Just get in, and go. Email me, and I'll send all the high res pics.. I have the car listed on Craigslist, here's the link: 1989 CHRYSLER TC MASERATI CONVERTIBLE
  15. OK, first, I searched high & low for a pair of new axles for the 89 TC. As most of you know, this was no small feat. Axles Unlimited in Charlotte N.C. sold me two absolutely INCORRECT axles for $368 (I was desperate), and when I returned them, refuses to issue a refund to my CC, so have had to dispute.... Now..the good news...I found CVJ axles in Colorado, who sold me the CORRECT axles for $69 (plus $30 core) each. The only difference was the speed sensor ring, which I easily switched from my old axles. In short... Stay away from the lying theives at Axles unlimited in Charlotte, NC... Call CVJ axles in Colorado, tel. # Toll Free: 1-800-292-2953(AXLE). Installed in an hour, and running great... Thanks all..
  16. Yet another problem with this interestingly designed vehicle.... Just when I thought I had conquered all the gremlins with mega $$$ thrown into this car... A simple set of brake pads turned into new rear brake calipers. The frustration is because our rear calipers are designed with a little adjusting screw which adjusts the piston to the rotor...which easily freezes, and strips....in my case all I need is this little adjusting screw...by any miracle, (stupid question) anyone know if this little inexpensive part is avaialable? Before I spend $200 on new calipers.....OR, anyone know of a short-cut around this poor design??? Thanks all Wayne 89 TC T2 Royal Cabernet & Ginger new head & gasket timing & accessory belts altenator starter a/c compressor struts shocks water pump fuel pump & lines vaccum lines battery exhaust tires brakes complete paint certificate of ressurection from the dead
  17. Does anyone out there have a handle on rebuilt axles for the '89 T2?? I called just about everywhere on the planet, and I'm getting the same response. No parts to rebuild 'em. Can't find them new either. I have two torn CV boots, and don't want to drive any further until I can replace. I would consider removing the axles myself, and installing new boots, but have never torn apart an axle, and not sure if I need a press, etc.... Hate to go the 'split boot' route, but may have no choice....... I tell ya folks, there's gotta be a special place in heaven for us TC owners........ Thanks Wayne
  18. '89 TC 2.2L Turbo w/ Intercooler. Start car cold, she idles fine. I bring tach up to 2500 rpm's, the check engine light goes on, (and stays on), and motor runs like crap from there on in.. (even idling) Getting a fault code # 26 (fuel injection issue). My question is; why aren't I getting the check engine light sooner, AND, if it were a faulty injector(s), would'nt it run like crap from the start? Anyone go through this? Thanks Wayne
  19. To the old forum?? Oh well.... Just completing a total rebuild of the top end of my '89 2.2 eight valve. Replaced just about everything we could...machined the head, all new gaskets, belts, hoses, altenator, starter, etc... I have two slight problems. I'm stuck with a part we can't remember where it came from. It's an aluminum shield, half-round, approx. 12" diameter, with a rubber end piece riveted on. Looks like it's a protective piece to cover something towards the bottom of car. Looked at the service manual, and all diagrams available online, and nothing..... Anyone know where this may go?? Second problem; there's a small port at (I believe) the turbo outlet. There was a small line attached, maybe 1/4". It had a vacuum (looking) line attached, which we since removed (deteriorated), but can't recall where it attaches to. Again, I checked the service manual, and schematics, but they don't show this port. If you peek under the air cleaner housing at the turbocharger, right next to the large outlet hose, there's a small 1/4" line. I need to know where this goes. Any help is (as always) appreciated. By the way, it's been a month's work, and as we went along we just decided to replace anything that would go on a 90k mile vehicle, thus making it a reliable driver for those weekend trips up the Maine coast, or to the New Hampshire mountains. Used all Bosch OEM parts, spared no expense, and even though I'll never get my $$$ back, at least I'll ahve peace of mind on a 300 mile trip. (fingers crossed) Hope everyone is fine, we're survivng a horrendous start to our summer here in the Nor'east, going on 32 days of rain......ughhhhhh Thanks all Wayne
  20. Need one for my 89. It's the plastic block that holds the brake system relays. It's at the front, passenger side under hood. Mine is there, but the cover's gone. If anyone has one, OR has at least the cover.... Anyone know if they are still a current Chrysler part?? Thanks Wayne
  21. Here's a good one; My neighbor was being investigated by an insurance company, and in the investigator's report, he noted that my neighbor was driving with me in a "Purple Lebaron" (My Royal cabernet '89 TC). I'll tell ya, that really pi_ _ed me off...... I told my neighbor to use that against him in court..hahah
  22. Thanks for all that valuable info, Alan! Yes, I think you're right, does sound like a good time to get in there, and replace the head gasket, give me a chance to clean up the motor, and paint parts to make the engine a little more presentable...I nhave the manual on it, I'll take my time and try and do everything possible to make this car a very dependable summer driver for those long distance rides up our New England coastline. I would imagine I can find a lot of recommendations here on our site as to what I should be changing out, and replacing while I have the head off. If there's anything you can suggest, I would appreciate the help. Thanks again, Wayne
  23. Ok, thanks guys for the quick replies on the head gasket info,, This is what I found: Head at center 'rail' has Chrysler Pendant cast with letters F & B on either side.. Numbers 4105 / 782 are cast on the right of the head..'stamped on the left side is TS2..does this sound like the original factory head?? Now...for the gasket.. I cleaned the cut-out area of grime, and the exposed head gasket is a 'copper' color, with the Chryler pendant stamped...no numbers showing on the gasket, only the Chrysler pendant.. That being said, what is the verdict? Original head, and gasket? Thanks in advance..... Wayne
  24. First, Happpy Thanksgiving to all!! While I wait for the turkey to cook, I have one question: Upon showing my '89 2.2 to a friend who is an enthusiast, he noted while looking at the engine that the head looks like it has been replaced. He claims that the bright silver color of the head signifies a replacement, or at very least a rebuild. I have no history on the car. It has 90k miles, and runs like a champ, and seems to have been well maintained. So.... does that sound right? The head is definitely a very clean very bright silver color, as opposed to the block... Thanks Wayne
  25. Hello to all, hope everyone got through the winter! (of course except those of you in the more moderate climates lol). I'll be getting the TC ready for the season, (although it's still in the 30's here in Boston), but before she goes into the body shop for new paint, would like to ask you pros what I should do to get her ready for the new year. Bought it last year, and only tuned it, then drove her for the summer. I really want to go through it, and do all the things that should be done to a 4 cyl. T2 Turbo that hasn't been properly maintained. Thanks for the advice, and I'm going to post the before, and after pics once she's done! Wayne
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