68RIVGS

. . . x 2, on any older style headlight switch knobs !!

Here's a '67 for you Al, just in case you missed out on that other one !! LOL . . . can you say "FUGLY" ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-riviera-asanti-27-rims-/251345647954?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a855e3952

The 'one way' slider valve inside the PCV body should move freely after a good soaking in a degreaser Darren. Varsol, laquer thinners, or brake cleaner will easily dissolve any of the 'crud' in a used unit. You can also test the PCV valve with a rubber hose, and a 'BJ', after the unit has been dried off !! LOL

You might be able to fabricate one from thin plastic 'Lexan' sheeting - the stuff used for replacing glass window panes, (...Lowes, Home Depot), or sheet styrene plastic, ( ...local hobby/craft store). Use the old unit as a template for sizing the replacement. The original retainer was probably made from a 'phenolic resin' material that has just deteriorated with age. These switches were not designed to be taken apart, and the white metal 'crimps' have a tendency to break off, so use a little TLC when working on them. You can also replace the 'weather proofing' plastic membrane that protects the switches from moisture, that also deteriorates with age, (... just like people LOL), while the unit is opened up. Assuming we're talking about the same thing Mitch - I'm refering to the backing plate for the pw switch housing. . . . a picture is worth how many words ???

It most likely depends on how dirty, or clogged the old PCV valve was, and it is not a very expensive replacement part. The old unit can also be cleaned by soaking it in a degreasing fluid of your choice. A severely clogged, or blocked unit will definetly affect engine idle speed and performance.

. . . make that after '67 Ed - for the SWP 400 transmission.

It should slide straight back with the bolts for the centre hanger bearing removed - check for crud or other debris that may be logged inside the X tunnel ? You may have already done this, but be sure to mark the rear flange, and any other components to ensure it goes back together 'in phase'.

. . . Thanks Brum, at least they are not expensive to drive !! LOL

Nice, ...nothing like scale Rivieras in miniature !! How about a few details on them Brum - scale, manufacturer, availability? :confused:

Over the years, most of the problems with the early 'Tenna style' power antennas (...other than obvious broken cable, bent mast sections, or electrical gremlins), is a build up of 'crud and corrosion' with age and time, in the lower cable storage area. These units have crimped flanges, and were not really designed to be taken apart easily - with some tender persuasion, and a little determination, these units can be brought back to life with a complete disassembly and a good cleaning of the lower cable housing, including the nylon cable attatched to the upper sedtion of the antenna mast. Proper adjustment and lubrication of the electric motor 'ball-clutch-unit' can be accomplished at the same time. The info in the Shop Manual will also help in repair or overhaul of a power antenna. Always 'bench test' a unit prior to installation in the car to ensure it functions OK, as it's no fun doing the same job twice !!

Hey Z - nice score on a '64, welcome, and enjoy the wonderful world of Riviera !!

I believe you can get both manuals in CD format - can't remember the vendor, maybe Detroit Iron ? but they were advertised in the Riview a while back. I prefer printed hardcopy so you can get some grease smudges all over the pages, and actually have two copies. One is for reading/reference in the house, and the other is the garage 'working' copy. You can always print the pages you need from the CD, but then your into buying paper, and expensive ink for the printer !!

. . . I was gonna make it easy, and spill the beans, but your absolutely right Riv !!

A bud with a mid '80s EFI S10 PU had a 'no start' condition, caused by a blown fuse somewhere in the oil pressure wiring circuit. It took three guys, with three different shop manuals, to locate and replace that blown fuse. Started right up after the fuse was replaced, and a short in the wiring was repaired !!

. . . a silly response Dan - My '68 LeSabre had a plain jane 'Sonomatic' radio with no letters too, and it is now residing somewhere in Finland. I've never seen another (. . . AM, FM, or FM Stereo) version without the letters, but my guess would be the 'letterless' versions might also have been installed in other GM vehicles ?? I'm quite sure one of the more knowledgeable Buick persons here will have the correct answer for us !!

Very interesting post on 'v8buick' about 'military nailheads', including info from those who used them. Military Nailheads

Looks like it was rear ended by a semi, or a freigt train - sad ending for a nice looking car !!

I'll bet a few people would like to 'stumble' on some of those. Your a very lucky man to have found all of them, and especially in matched L/R sets !! They are almost 'unobtanium' in NOS condition, and finding 'good used' that are 'pit free' is almost as hard. The cost of rechroming originals is very expensive, and more so, if they are in poor 'pitted' condition. They were on my 'wish list' for many years, as well as the AC vacuum actuator cannisters for the headlights, that finally appeared NOS on 'evilBay', and it was a case of 6, that sold in pairs, for the highest bid !! I had posted here and on v8buick, with a link to all your evilBay listings for those that had the same 'wish list'. 'Thanks' for the update on those NOS bezels.

Just how old is that battery? - may not be the problem, but it's definetly not getting a sufficient charge. The flickering light would indicate a problem in the electrical charging circuit, and is not 'new clock' related. Good advice from Jim and Tom !!

The 2nd gen Rivs are the same - did mine while the 2 piece drive shaft was out of the 'X' frame tunnel, it was much easier !!

hmmmmmmmm, . . . same seller, same pics - but not the same one, with a third listing ??? Guessing your grandfather must have had a few of these. Good luck with your auction !!

. . . was gonna mention the 'likeness' to the advertisment, but figured it was intentional, and other viewers might notice it, and comment on the photo !

. . . very nice captures, hard to pic a favourite and congratulations !!

I drove my '68 for a long while, without any instrument cluster, while the interior was being refurbished Ed - just ensure none of the harness 'hot' wires can short out on metal portions of the dash opening. No need to remove the ignition switch, if it mounts seperate from the '64 instrument cluster.

. . . nice article, previously mentioned here Darrell: http://forums.aaca.org/f177/hemmings-motor-news-august-355480.html