68RIVGS

I was fortunate enough to meet Chris at the first ROA Annual in Denver, CO and it was many years before I managed to snag a copy of his publication 'Buick Riviera 1963-1973'. RIP Chris !!

Welcome to the ROA, and the wonderful world of Riviera !! Looks like you made a very good choice, and I know your gonna enjoy that '65 - it's a beauty. Sometimes the 'hunt', can be the best part of buying a 'new/used' vehicle, and I think it shows in your purchase. . . . congratulations and enjoy !!

Not sure what era you mean Ed, but for '68 the key must be 'ON' (...run, or accessory position), for any of the power accessories to work ?? Dave - Some of the wires running to the switches in the drivers door get brittle and connections corrode with age, and they may even be broken from constant flexing with the opening and closing of the driver's door. Other electrical issues can also be caused by poor, corroded, or missing ground connections in 40+ year old Riviera wiring circuits. Sounds like the fuel starvation situation will need to be resolved in order to get the car running. My guess would be fuel pump, or a blocked, or collapsed rubber fuel line? You might be able to clear the line by blowing compressed air through it - remove the gas filler cap if you do this, so the pressure can escape.

. . . errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, you mean 'the Riview' Paul - from a fellow ROA 'life' member !!

. . . I've heard that concept before Jason, but it wasn't automotive related !! :confused:

Guess I was lucky - the original window sticker for my Riviera has the PO5 V2 Chrome Plated Wheel option listed for a whopping total of $89.47 Over the years, I've probably salvaged, hoarded, traded, and bought and sold about a half dozen sets of the '66 - '70 chrome plated wheels - heck, I even picked up a complete set of 5 at the Hershey meet, that filled the trunk to capacity for the trip home. (... thanks 'Riviera' Bob !) It's just a small addiction, that really has no cure !!

Good "i" Tom - thanks for detailing those subtle differences, and nice work Don - an expensive 'Santa' present for sure, but they look absolutely great!!

. . . BTDT, 20-20 hindsight John !! As a member of the ROA - if you have a problem or a dispute with any vendor, please report it, so other members don't suffer the same consequences. Please read all the details on the first page of the 'Classifieds' section of the Riview.

It's definitely not from the '60s Ed, and judging by the knobs, and style of lettering for BUICK, a guess would be mid '70s - early '80s ?

Not absolutely certain Marty, but I think the '69-'70 full size wheel covers (hubcaps), are the same, and the wheel cover plastic centres are slightly larger than the chrome road wheel plastic centre cap insert. I do have a full set of NOS '69 wheel covers squirreled away in the garage, and can do a comparison for you, but it's -10C here right now.

I thought all the seat backs, bench or bucket, were plastic - maybe some metal in the seat back frame is attracting the magnet ? If indeed they are plastic, you can very easily repaint them !!

Like Ed sez !! You can prep and paint them yourself, colour matched rattle cans are available from just about any automotive paint supply source.

The spring style rheostat on the light switch might be broken or corroded, or is not making a good connection. In any case, the switch may have to be removed for closer inspection, and possible replacement with a new one.

Nice looking '65 Gran Sport reference posted on v8buick - looks pretty original, and the price seems reasonable. Here's the CL link: http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/4188048470.html

There is no way of telling from the VIN # as all GS versions were included in the regular production numbers without any identifying designation, and to add to the confusion, many of the GS options (... the A9 option), could also be ordered on none GS vehicles. There are specific items to look for that came with the GS option, and the Gran Sport, GS topic is covered 'in depth' in an article available on the ROA website, as Ed has stated. Here's a link: http://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/65gs/

Gotta love the Cats, I still miss my '68s !!

Your first pic choice is much better, (...the money shot, ...the wall hanger, ...the keeper), with emphasis on the car - the building facade in the background does nothing for a rather distorted view of the car (...imho) :confused: ?

With the digital cameras, and lenses that are available today, it's not hard for a 'novice' to achieve 'professional' looking results.'Post processing' in Adobe photoshop, or other various computer software programs can also enhance an otherwise mundane image. Photography is an art, and a combination of aquired skills and learning, with lots of practice. That's why profesionals are professionals, and there are those of us who 'wannabee'. That is a very nice capture of your Riviera, and well worth the cost of the print !!

. . . almost like waiting for your first born child, eh Jason - hope all goes well !!

Check out 'evilBay' listings for '71, '72 Riviera too !!

. . . for all the 'big wheel' fans - the debate goes on !! http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?215129-I-know-there-arent-many-guys-on-here-who-like-big-wheels-but

Just a small addition to Ed's info - Sourcing parts for early disc brake Rivieras ('67-'70) is not all that easy, as some of the components are 'unobtanium'. Most drum to front disc conversion systems use 'stock' current GM components, that are readily available.

. . . and don't forget those giant subwoofers in the trunk to keep the rust scale off !!

Hey Keith- The huge drum brakes on the Riviera were designed to stop the big car adequately - For normal driving, I suggest you keep them, and sort out your specific braking problem. Unless you want to go the added expense, time, and trouble involved in a conversion to newer style front disc brakes. Electrical problems: The dash lights work off the headlight switch and brightness is controlled by a rheostat on the front of the switch - check the headlight switch. The electric clock probably has burned or corroded contacts on the winding mechanism - remove it and check the contacts. You can clean them to get the clock working, or replace the electro-mechanical unit with a quartz movement. The wiper motor must be grounded - check for a good ground connection on the small brass tang under one of the wiper motor mounting bolts on the firewall. All of the above suggestions assume there is power going to the items, and they are in proper working order.

For all the DIY'ers, especially 'novice' wannabee buffers - Be sure and wear protective gear (...gloves, eye wear, dust mask, etc.), when your doing any buffing - That buffing wheel can turn a piece of stainless into an airborn projectile in a flash, and it can also eat, or mangle a piece of trim pretty quick, rendering it 'N-F-G' !! . . . don't ask me how I know ! :eek: